GP Lancair ES Pictures
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Thanks! Haven't measured the distance from the top of the rudder to the ground but when I do I'll let you know. The engine is an OS 91 FSII and the prop is a Masterairscrew 13 X 8! The plane flys great. Go to my post titled "GP Lancair ES Jus Awesome" for my comments on how th maident flight went!
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Originally posted by orvel
Thanks! Haven't measured the distance from the top of the rudder to the ground but when I do I'll let you know. The engine is an OS 91 FSII and the prop is a Masterairscrew 13 X 8! The plane flys great. Go to my post titled "GP Lancair ES Jus Awesome" for my comments on how th maident flight went!
Thanks! Haven't measured the distance from the top of the rudder to the ground but when I do I'll let you know. The engine is an OS 91 FSII and the prop is a Masterairscrew 13 X 8! The plane flys great. Go to my post titled "GP Lancair ES Jus Awesome" for my comments on how th maident flight went!
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That shouldn't be a problem for you. The vertical stabilizers are removable for transportation so you could lay the airplane on its side. But besides, I also have a truck (Dodge Dakota) with a Tounneou cover and a fairly shallow bed and I didn't have any problem fitting it in right side up without removing the stabilizers.
Good luck to you!
Good luck to you!
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Thanks, what a coincidence. I too have a dodge dakota. I guess it was meant to be that I buy a lancair too. Now just got to convince the wife.
I actually forgot that the main wheels come off with the wing so the tail would rest on the bed.
I actually forgot that the main wheels come off with the wing so the tail would rest on the bed.
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Flapbreaker, I did but in retrospect I probably didn't need to. I used the stock muffler that came with the OS91 FSII and I really think the hole I opened for it in the cowl would have been more than enough-- for a four stroker anyway. A 2 stroke would have been different. But anyway it can't hurt! I haven't had any overheating problems at all. How's yours coming along? Keep in-touch and let me know when you get ready for the maiden!
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Thanks Orvel. I just received mine 2 days ago. I have not done anything but unbox it and bother you with questions.
I like the 3 prop and aluminum look so I will probably have to order it (doubt my LHS has one in). Not sure yet on the aileron servos wether or not to glue them in or buy the low profile ones. Anyway I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the info.
I like the 3 prop and aluminum look so I will probably have to order it (doubt my LHS has one in). Not sure yet on the aileron servos wether or not to glue them in or buy the low profile ones. Anyway I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the info.
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Servos
Flapbreaker,
I glued in my aileron servos as per the instructions (using shrink tubing). It worked so good that I did the same for the flaps. All controls are very tight (more than other planes I have built).
I glued in my aileron servos as per the instructions (using shrink tubing). It worked so good that I did the same for the flaps. All controls are very tight (more than other planes I have built).
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Re: Servos
Originally posted by iFLYrc_Vic
Flapbreaker,
I glued in my aileron servos as per the instructions (using shrink tubing). It worked so good that I did the same for the flaps. All controls are very tight (more than other planes I have built).
Flapbreaker,
I glued in my aileron servos as per the instructions (using shrink tubing). It worked so good that I did the same for the flaps. All controls are very tight (more than other planes I have built).
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I am going to order a 3 blade prop. I like the APC brand bud they only have a 13.4X13.5 do you think this is enough pitch for a Saito .91 Orvel I see that you have a 13x8 . Not sure if I should just get the masterscrew or try the APC. They are a little expensive to just experiment with.
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I don't think the 13X5 is going to be enough of a load for your 91. Go up in size to a 14" diameter then! You don't want to over rev that engine. Ge the Master Airscrew 13X8 believe me its a perfect 3 blade for that engine in both performance and looks.
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I also posted this in another thread regarding the lancair sorry for the double posts but I need an answere.
Ok I have a building question. I attached a photo of the supplied servo cover. Unfortunately the one in they supplied looks different from the one in the manual. I am not sure if I am supposed to cut around the perimeter or not. Take a look at the photo and see if you can figure out what I am asking.
Ok I have a building question. I attached a photo of the supplied servo cover. Unfortunately the one in they supplied looks different from the one in the manual. I am not sure if I am supposed to cut around the perimeter or not. Take a look at the photo and see if you can figure out what I am asking.
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One more question. The manual doesn't say anything about creating an opening in the exit points for the pushrods. I am assuming I try and drill a new hole? It will be hard to get a drill at the right angle without screwing up the painted surface.
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flapbreaker,
Actually it is in the manual. You don't really drill a hole. First you trim the angled piece from the plastic, next cut out the control rod opening. If you look at the inside of the cover you can see the oval shaped line where you are supposed to cut. Either use a dremel, lexan scissors or carefully use an exacto.
Mark
Actually it is in the manual. You don't really drill a hole. First you trim the angled piece from the plastic, next cut out the control rod opening. If you look at the inside of the cover you can see the oval shaped line where you are supposed to cut. Either use a dremel, lexan scissors or carefully use an exacto.
Mark
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Push Rod Exit Holes
I think the manual did mention to drill holes in the "extrusions" for the push rods. You need to drill a small hole then increase the drill size several times before you get to the size of the push rod tube. This will prevent cracking the paint/fuse.
The servo tray is very hard to put in after you glue in the forward former mounting blocks. You may consider gluing them in after inserting the servo tray.
One other note; if you want to keep the receiver antena inside the fuse, insert a tube (like the push rod tube) inside the fuse and up the vertical stab. I ran the tube along the roof of the fuse then up the vertical stab. I then drilled a hole and inserted a servo mounting gromet on the side to the vertical stab near the top (in the blue paint). The antena only sticks out a few inches and lots better than having it on the outside.
I will get some photos posted later today.
The servo tray is very hard to put in after you glue in the forward former mounting blocks. You may consider gluing them in after inserting the servo tray.
One other note; if you want to keep the receiver antena inside the fuse, insert a tube (like the push rod tube) inside the fuse and up the vertical stab. I ran the tube along the roof of the fuse then up the vertical stab. I then drilled a hole and inserted a servo mounting gromet on the side to the vertical stab near the top (in the blue paint). The antena only sticks out a few inches and lots better than having it on the outside.
I will get some photos posted later today.