fast9

Just getting ready to put my ultrastick 40 together. Should I swap the CA hinges for Nylon. Haven't heard about any real problems on ths model, but I have done this on others. I am a fairly experienced pilot and will likely be throwing it around pretty hard once I get used to it(yes I've crashed my share). BTW, I already know about swapping out for a lighter engine mt and a heavier tail wheel bracket.

outdoorhunting

IMO the CA hinges would be just fine. I've been using them on all my planes & NEVER had a failure. I fly with about 5 other guys & that's what they use, no problems. I've heard of 1 failure in our club & knowing the guy that had the failure,he prob didn't glue them thoroughly. They are so easy & simple to use,why bother with the high dollar stuff. Good luck

da Rock

The only time you actually need to swap out CA hinges is when the ones that come with your ARF happen to be cheap quality. And then, there really is not need to use anything other than good quality CA hinges. They last, they're stong, and they're very easy to install well.

Once upon a time, there was a reason to NOT use nylon ones. They weren't easy to install at all because the only universally accepted glue for them was epoxy. Nowadays, that's no longer the case. Hinge glue installs those hinges so easily, they're as easy as CA hinges. Only thing that takes extra effort, and it's almost no extra effort, is to keep the hinge line of each flat right on the hinge line of the whole surface. The glue has none of the problems epoxy has. And it holds as well, and is a bunch easier to apply.

We got us a win, win situation nowadays. Using good CA hinges is a winner. Using nylon hinges with hinge glue is just as good a win. Either choice beats everything else. Unless you do hinge points with hinge glue. And that's actually no better than either of the other two. Win, win, win

opjose

Remember those cheap CA hinges that tend to debond over time because the underlying material is SHINY plastic?

They seem to be made of a plastic substrate onto which fibers have been sprayed or glued on...

Anyway, it may be a good idea to tell people what to look for...

I believe that you can find out if you have this type of CA hinge by cutting one.

If the material is uniform with no visible plastic center, you have the better CA hinges...

If you see a layer of plastic in the hinge material, CHANGE THEM!!!

Most of the ones I've seen like this tend to be ROUND and packed with Asian ARFs...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've had Ultra Stick 40's ever since they came out. I always used the supplied CA hinges and I never had one break or come out.

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

I am planing on starting my build of the Stik 40, this week.. It will be my first Stik build.. CA hinges have always done me well... I do, however, wish to know what you mean by the "lighter" engiine mount and the "heavier" tail wheel bracket. What are the reasons for making these changes, and what products did you change to?? I was planning on upgrading my tank from the standard (included) 8.5 oz. to a 120 oz, to improve run time. Your thoughts on that too... if you are doing, are you going to use this part http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU64&P=7 or this one (the slanted)? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFU72&P=7
Greatly appreciate all your help on this build.

Thanks for your help and information.. It is great appreciated.

Best Regards,

Don

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You don"t say which engine you are running

I get 15 min wide open throttle with a Saito 56 on my Ultra Sticks with the original tank

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Ultra Stick 40 needs a long slim square tank if you are going to put it in and take it out from the radio compartment. Otherwise you will need a hatch on the top which is not hard to do

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The Ultra Stick comes out nose heavy when using the original aluminum motor mount

I've used the original tail wheel assembly and it lasted the life of the plane but most people like one that is a little more substantial

VictoryRoll

My Feedback: (2)

Ah-hah... I see.. first, in re-reading my above question, I see I put 120 oz. lol.. obviously... 12 oz....

I use an OS .55 AX.. engine and the manual says 12 oz. = 10-12 mins at wide-open..which is fine with me. But, in the Stik, using the incl. 8.5 oz. I can imagine a reduced airtime of approx. 25% or 8 mins or so (total flight time) (roughly). That is not a preferable flight time to me, as I am sure to you folks as well. That is why I am trying to get these ideas from you and other experienced Stik builders, so I can see how, what and why I need to make any changes, if at all.

Another person, from a different thread mentioned that he put a 12 oz. "flex" tank from Sullivan in place of the 8.5 oz original... seems like a nice alternative, but then again, I have zero experience with the "flex" and wonder what, if any, problems, concerns, tips, etc., that will help me install the larger tank successfully. Any thoughts or experience working w/ the Sullivan "Flex" tanks?

So there does not seem to be too many here that see a benefit in changing the engine mount?? and wheel/tail bracket, other than the one person on each subject... ??

Again, thanks so much for your time and help.

I'll let you know how all goes with this build, if you wish, but I do not want to hi-jack this thread, started by another person w/ his own questiond/needs.

Thanks again.... and if you have any additional comments please advise or email me directly at [email protected].

Thanks,

Don

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I have used the Flex Tanks in other planes. You could probably squeeze it past F2

They are thin and will eventually wear through especially where they rub against the throttle rod jacket. I would change them put every year if I flew much.

fast9

Fishingships- You've got a lot of motor there with the 55. Chances are you won't be flying it wide open much. I would try the stock tank first. With the 55 and the stock motor mount you will me sticking a fair amount of lead on the tail. With my .46 and the great planes mount I hope to have none. I guess the stock tail wheel mount won't survive many hard landings, some guys upgrade to a dubro or sullivan. I like to think I can land pretty well when I need to, but I tend to get aggressive after a while and like to try spot landing, carrier style landings, etc.

jwalsh

My Feedback: (1)

I used a super tiger 60 with all the stock hardware with the exception of a sullivan 12oz flex tank. I did have to add a fair amount of lead to the tale but the plane few very well with slow soft landings especially with the flaps engaged. I did add hatch access to the area behind the fire wall to aid in tank installation. I think the original should have been design that way as it makde life so much easier. Good luck, you'll love the plane.