WHAT FUEL?
#1
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From: Boynton Beach, FL
I just bought a TTpro .46. What kind of fuel should i use? The book recommends between 5-15% nitro..And should I use Omega fuels?
By the way, it's powering a giles 202 50 size with a MA 11x7..
By the way, it's powering a giles 202 50 size with a MA 11x7..
#2
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From: Toowoomba, AUSTRALIA
You don't need any nitro at all, we run theseengines in Pylon racers and they perform very well without it. There will be plenty of people in here who shoot me down for this but the less nitro the better as far as I am concerned. The stuff is acidic and eats away the bearings in the motor if you leave any fuel in the motor.
These engines pull a Viper / Sonic / Syd racing plane around the sky very well using a blend of methonol and degummed castor for my money the less nitro you use the better
These engines pull a Viper / Sonic / Syd racing plane around the sky very well using a blend of methonol and degummed castor for my money the less nitro you use the better
#4

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I've been using 10% nitro. I tried 15% for a little while in my .46 but I noticed the decreased 'fuel mileage' over the power increase.
I think 15% is a good idea for competitive flying, but for sport flying there's no need. Nitromethane requires less oxygen than methanol to burn. As you increase the nitro content, you have to open your needles to allow more fuel into the engine. You get an increase in power due to the larger amount of fuel burning, not because nitromethane has more power. Your flight times will be shorter with higher nitro content. 10% is also less expensive to begin with. If 5% was available around here, I MIGHT try it, though 10% is probably a happy balance between cost, fuel savings, and performance.
As was stated above, you actually don't need ANY nitro to run an engine. However, the majority of the fuel and glow plugs available in the United States are designed around 10-15% nitro.
I think 15% is a good idea for competitive flying, but for sport flying there's no need. Nitromethane requires less oxygen than methanol to burn. As you increase the nitro content, you have to open your needles to allow more fuel into the engine. You get an increase in power due to the larger amount of fuel burning, not because nitromethane has more power. Your flight times will be shorter with higher nitro content. 10% is also less expensive to begin with. If 5% was available around here, I MIGHT try it, though 10% is probably a happy balance between cost, fuel savings, and performance.
As was stated above, you actually don't need ANY nitro to run an engine. However, the majority of the fuel and glow plugs available in the United States are designed around 10-15% nitro.
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From: Concord Twp,
OH
In most of Europe they aren't permitted to run any nitro, so all that said it's not necessary are correct....the only problem in the USA is 0% is difficult to find........
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From: Burtchville,
MI
Several things:
* Break-in fuel 10-15% nitro 20% all castor preferred or 50% castor/50% synthetic. I would run 25% lubricant)
* Run three tanks through for break-in.
* Break-in porpeller - 11 x 5
* Start engine with the needle 2 to 2 1/2 turns off seat with finger over carb and battery disconnected flip engine over 2-3 times
- 1st tank start engine at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and run borderline "4 cycle" rich
- 2nd tank run rich with full throttle bursts of 30-60 seconds.
- 3rd tank run tank dry varying throttle from 1/2 to full at 30-60 second intervals.
TT says it's broken in at this point. I would be inclined to run at least one full pint of 25% lube fuel through it before I would consider it broken-in. TT is dead set against an all synthetic lube but if you must run syn. run the engine on the rich side. TT also recommends that you use no more than 10% nitro after break-in. After you reach full R.P.M on starting, back off the needle (counter clock wise) 2-3 clicks.
I hope this helps.
Bill
* Break-in fuel 10-15% nitro 20% all castor preferred or 50% castor/50% synthetic. I would run 25% lubricant)
* Run three tanks through for break-in.
* Break-in porpeller - 11 x 5
* Start engine with the needle 2 to 2 1/2 turns off seat with finger over carb and battery disconnected flip engine over 2-3 times
- 1st tank start engine at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and run borderline "4 cycle" rich
- 2nd tank run rich with full throttle bursts of 30-60 seconds.
- 3rd tank run tank dry varying throttle from 1/2 to full at 30-60 second intervals.
TT says it's broken in at this point. I would be inclined to run at least one full pint of 25% lube fuel through it before I would consider it broken-in. TT is dead set against an all synthetic lube but if you must run syn. run the engine on the rich side. TT also recommends that you use no more than 10% nitro after break-in. After you reach full R.P.M on starting, back off the needle (counter clock wise) 2-3 clicks.
I hope this helps.
Bill
#8
I've run 10% I think forever, except when I was running Cox 1/2 A's. Go with a good lubricant mix of syn + castor and I think you're good. In fact I like to add 4 ounces of castrol to my gallons, just to bring the lubricant % up a bit. I've never "fried" and engine. Just my opinion.
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From: AUSTRALIA
Dave, you should now know what fuel to use but you need to consider a different prop for this 46 size tt-pro, 11 x 7 is abit to big try either a 10 x 7 or 10 x 6. apc brand.
#12

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From: crown point,
IN
I use 10% omega in mine, an 11 7 apc, and it pulls a great planes supersportster 40 arf very well. this engine is at least 10 years old, was in another SS for a few years, and has sat on the bench a few years before I put it in this SS a couple of years ago, and it just runs like new. I do use marvel mystery oil as an after run in all of my engines, even though it may not be neccessary. just a habit.(probably a good one for a change!!
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