I just received this ARF model today and took a careful look at it. Looks well made, plenty of hardware, etc. The manual include is somewhat brief and mostly drawings. It's a little advanced for me, but I will be assembling later on this winter or early spring. I have a few questions. `1. I assume the wing is supposed to be glued together, but the manual shows only three spots to epoxy. If it's supposed to be glued, I guess the bare wood of the ribs should be glued also. 2. Should I use the hardware in the box, or should I use stuff from the LHS? I'm not sure about the quality of the enclosed stuff. 3. What would be an appropriate replacement for the fuel tank? Or should I just pitch the aluminum tubes and use brass? I have an new TT .46 Pro and a new magnum .52 four stroker that could be used. Which would be better? I appreciate any guidance you have or experiences with this model. Thanks in advance.

I love your nickname, muffinman. :-) Now I'll try to answer your questions........

World Models manuals are not the most informative for new ARF builders, but after you assemble a few, you'll notice that almost all ARF's go together identically. Just post questions in this thread as you go along....most modelers are very helpful.

Regarding joining your wing, use 30 minute epoxy, not 5 minute as it cures to quickly. Use a low adhesive masking tape and apply it to both sides of the wing a few layers wide close to the root. This will keep the covering clean while you work with the epoxy. Check you joiner and rib alignment prior to applying epoxy. Coat both rib roots completely and make sure you get plenty of epoxy in both joiner openings. After you are satisfiled with the joint, wrap the entire seam with tape. You can remove all the tape after the epoxy sets but is not cured. It will still be flexible and you'll be left with a clean solid joint.

World Models factory hardware is better than most...I recommend you use what comes with the kit.

A Sullivan or Dubro tank will work out fine but I've used the supplied WM tanks successfully. Consider replacing the stopper if you do. I like using brass tubes for tanks. Make sure you clean up any flash from cutting the tubes or you'll have trouble with fuel tubing cuts.

In a Cub a 4-stroke engine is more realistic but either the TT .46 or Magnum 4-strke woud be fine. TT makes a very nice .54 4-stroke also. Good luck.

Jeff Benko
Palm Beach Skyhawks

Thanks for the info, Jeff. Nickname? That's what happens when your in the Air Force, working a rotating shift and are an asst supervisor. I got to go the the snack bar and get snacks for the guys on my shift and having someone with a sense of humor working for you.
I'm really impressed with this arf. But it is a future project, right now I'm learning on a LT-40, and have a few others line up in progression. This one will be my first attempt at a scale model. I have an easy sport 40, a midstar 40, and a rascal 40 before I get to this one. Hopefully they will all make it through my transition from a learner to a flier.

muffinman - Hope you don't get sick of all those high and shoulder-wing planes. :-) The Easy Sport is quite aerobatic and you can turn it up a notch by increasing the throws and moving the CG back a bit.

Cubs look good but my experience with them (any make) is they can be a handful on both takeoffs and landings. I'm not sure if its the high-wing with no dihedral or what. I've flown the WM cub for one of the guys in my club on it's maiden flight. It rocked side to side really bad on takeoff so watch your aileron throws. He finally got it sorted out and it now flies quite well on a Thunder Tiger .54 4-stroke. I think the most fun you can have with it is hovering in a headwind........

Regarding your nickname.....I read it all wrong of course... I thought you were stating your affinity for something else entirely!

Jeff Benko
Palm Beach Skyhawks