chopper man

Now I'm pumped. Just got an email with a tracking number. Should be here on Saturday

chopper

chopper man

It showed up a day early On intial inspection verything looks good. I hope it goes together well. I wasn't expecting for all the control surfaces to be installed already. Not that I'm complaining All I need now is the money for the servos and a receiver. Tomas is right, It's a good looking bird!!

chopper

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

come on man, we were depending on you for some pics!

chopper man

Not much yet. In time, in time. I was surprised the covering has no wrinkles. I purchase the combo with the Magnum 70 four stroke and the retracts. Hope to start putting it together this weekend.

chopper

chopper man

I was just looking at the pictures and they do not do it justice. The covering looks bad in the pics but it is great shape.

chopper

chopper man

Started compiling a list of things need to complete my Dago Red. Any suggestions on the retract servo? Never have had anything with retracts. Also want to put a 3 bladed prop on a Magnum 70 4 stroke. Any suggestions?
Thanks for the help.

chopper

KentuckyColonel

I use a 13X6 two bladed prop on mine. Wouldn't know what 3 blade to use. [link=http://www.hitecrcd.com/servos/show?name=HS-75BB]This HiTech[/link] retract servo has done a good job for me, despite my problems getting them to work....

chopper man

What type of problems?

KentuckyColonel

Just getting them too lock down. All my friends that use them are successful with them. I'm just having a heck of a time finding that "sweet spot" that gets them locked both up and down. I don't think it is a problem with the gear. I have to put it on me.......In any case, the servo is good to go, it does exactly what it is supposed to do! I'm having the same issue with the retracts installed in my Kyosho Spitfire 90.

chopper man

Thanks. They say break in the engine with a 13x6. I wonder if a 13x7 3 blade prop would be ok?

chopper

Dauntae

From what I've read about 3 blade props the general rule of thumb is to either go down 1 in pitch or diameter. although it is same size as the 2 blade the third plade add more resistance so it will be like adding a larger prop. Can't wait to see yours complete, I've been eying that Dego for some time now.

Dauntae

chopper man

Thanks for the info. I'll post some pictures as I go. Hopefully I'll be able to start it soon. I have to help my daughter do a 3rd grade project[:'(]

chopper

miklos

My Feedback: (38)

Hey Colonel.... the trick to geting the retracts right, is to first measure the travel in inches or millimeters of the control linkage that comes from the retract to the retract servo. Measure how much it moves when you manually pull it from retract to extend. That is the distance you will need between the holes on the servo wheel that you attach the linkages to such that as the servo wheel rotates, it moves the linkage exactly the amount that you measured when you moved the linkages manually. This may require you to drill new holse in the servo wheel if the holes already in it are not properly spaced.
Hope that works out for you.

KentuckyColonel

Thanks for the tip. I'll double check on that!

chistech

The easiest way to do what Miklos said is to have your retract servo mounted and your pushrods installed but not cut to length. Push the pushrod toward the retract so that it completely cycles the retract and locks it in place. Usually pushing the pushrod out will retract the wheel up unless your plane is like a Spitfire or 109 with outward retracting wheels. After pushing the rod out and the gear is locked, push just a little harder to make sure the rod won't go any farther. I like to use needle nose pliers to give the little extra. When you are sure it can't go any further, mark the pushrod with a black marker right where it goes over the screw hole of the servo out put arm. Then pull the pushrod in the opposite direction until the retract is cycled completely the other way. I again, pull a little on it with the needle nose pliers. When you are sure the pushrod can go no further, mark it where it passes directly over the outpur arm screw hole. This is the total amount of distance you will need to properly actuate your gear lock to lock. I can tell you that most round servo wheels that come with the retract servos do not give enough throw. You will find that the 4-leg output arm that comes with the Hi-Tec will give you the most throw. Kyosho planes use the 4-leg arm. Use the #1 and #3 arms and use the center holes on each arm. This is the proper throw for the Kyosho supplied retracts. If using JR you will find none of the arms they give you seem to give you the right amount of throw. You either have to get a blank arm and drill or get a Dubro HD arm and sometimes drill it. Remember, what ever distance you require, you divide it in half and then it must be equal from the center of the servo arm. An example would be: If your pushrod travels a total of 1" then you would need a servo arm that had two holes 180 degrees opposite of each other that are exactly 1/2" from the center of the screw hole of servo arm. Put a ruler accross these two holes and your total should be the 1" you need and the half inch mark should be directly above the screw hole. IF YOU USE A ARM THAT HAS THE PROPER DISTANCE BETWEEN HOLES BUT THOSE HOLES ARE NOT EQUALLY DISTANCED FROM THE CENTER OF THE SERVO ARM, YOUR RETRACTS WILL NOT FUNCTION CORRECTLY. All my planes have mechanicals but my Byron P51 and that is because it came that way. Always try to center the output arm in the center of the wing if you can. This allows both pushrods to be the exact length. I know by design of some planes, this is not possible. In those cases where the retract servo is way off center and one pushrod is quite a bit longer than the other, I install all 4-40 pushrods to help prevent flexing. If installing rotating mechanicals I also use the 4-40 rods from the retract servo to the bell cranks and have found I have no problems at all. I also find that you do not have to do the crazy recommended Z type bends that some manuals show where the pushrods attach to the servo. Most times, just a slight bend is enough to clear the EZ connectors when the servo moves through it's 180 degree movement. Sorry for the long post but I am just trying to be as clear as I can for anyone who has had trouble with mechanical setups.The picture shows a Hi-Tec servo centered in the wing using the 4-leg servo arm with the EZ connectors in the center holes on each arm. This is in a Kyosho Hein.

chopper man

I'm getting ready to install the servos. They say cut an opening for the battery in the bottom behind the wing where there is a battery tray. I have a Magnum 70 FS so I'm wondering if I should just put the battery in the back or wait and see if it balances up front with the servo's. Any suggestions is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

Dauntae

Chopper man I didn't want to cut a hatch in the bottom of mine either so I used the LG blocks (I installed retracts) and epoxied them into the fuse ware the airscoop is, I then used some 1/8 light ply to make a battery holder and screwed it to the blocks, Worked out pretty well and no hatch screws showing on the out side either. Also I cut the front airscoop with a dremel sanding wheel (the smaller one) and installed the engine inverted so there is no engine sticking out the side.

sudi9

i just finished my dego red  ,did the test fly last week and i love it,its quite fast smooth landings with vq retracts,using an ASP 91 four stroke 13x7 apc,great plane.

 

Dauntae

Hopefully get to maiden mine Monday...Too much going on this weekend to get to the field so Monday if the weather is right I will maiden my Dego and a Revolver that's been taunting me to get into the air. Got a Saito 82 in my Dego.

Dauntae

chopper man

Duntae,
Thanks for the idea and the photos. How did the CG work out? Did you have to add any weight? I didn't even think about doing the engine inverted. Oh well, I already have my mounted on its side so I'll just go with it. They also show the servos being mounted with the head pointed to the back. Seems to me with the wiring it would be easier to turn them around. Is there any reason why I should not do this? Thanks again.

jay1st

Hi,

The wing seems very thick for a DAGO, compared to a friends EZ.

So it's just a disguised P51, right ?

Dauntae

Pretty much, but does fly nice but isn't as fast as I hoped

Dauntae

chopper man

Would someone be so kind as to post a photo of your servo installation. I'm not sure if I agree with their set up. Trying to get this thing finished. Only been in the works a year!
Thank you.

chopper

jay1st

It's pretty straight-fwd.

Just fit all 3 servos next to each other.

No pics, the Dago is 1000 miles away, at home [:@]

chopper man

One picture in the instructions how all 3 servo heads facing toward the rear. Then another one show the rudder and the elevator servo facing the rear and the throttle facing forward. It would seem that the rudder and the elevator servos would be better served if the horn is forward. Does it really matter?
thanks

chopper