Temporary Fuel Proofing Technique??
#1
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From: Ewa,
HI
I ripped my landing gear block out of my Edge today and I had to remove a bunch of covering to make the repair. Im going to have to order some new covering, but for the time being, how can I fuel proof the wood and still be able to cover the plane later? I was thinking about some clear spray paint but didnt know if the covering would still adhere? ANy ideas? Also does anyone happen to know if there is a difference in the colors between ultracote and monokote? I need "true red" covering and saw that both brands have that color.
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From: Fayetteville,
GA
How about just ironing on some monocote (any color) temporarily until your matching covering comes in? It's easy to remove and any fuel/oil residue goes with it when you take it back off.
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From: Burtchville,
MI
I would apply some Balsarite to the wood. In fact, I wouldn't cover and aircraft without it. I don't remember if its a Hobbico or Top Flite product.
Bill
Bill
#4
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I would go with GaGeeBee idea till your covering comes in. Yes difference between Mono and all other coverings so no way of knowing which will match what you have unless you know what's on it now.
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From: Ewa,
HI
I used some yellow Monokote for the time being, thanks for the tip. Also, its covered with ultracote, but I wasnt sure if there was a difference in color between the two brands.
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From: G-town,
VA
And another option, I use 30 minute epoxy brushed on. 30 minute epoxy is easily sandable. I have also soaked thick CA into the balsa.
I need to check out the Balsarite. First I've heard of it.
Frank
I need to check out the Balsarite. First I've heard of it.
Frank
#8
Balsarite is made by an old company named Coverite.
http://www.coverite.com/
I use their coverings when I build kits. Balsarite is brushed on the balsa to make sure that the covering never peels off.
http://www.coverite.com/
I use their coverings when I build kits. Balsarite is brushed on the balsa to make sure that the covering never peels off.
#9
ORIGINAL: Muroc1
And another option, I use 30 minute epoxy brushed on. 30 minute epoxy is easily sandable. I have also soaked thick CA into the balsa.
Frank
And another option, I use 30 minute epoxy brushed on. 30 minute epoxy is easily sandable. I have also soaked thick CA into the balsa.
Frank
Fuel proof the entire area with the epoxy mix. This will also strengthen the joints and wood.
When you are ready to cover, sand the fuel proofed wood until it is smooth. You do not have to remove the fuel proofing, merely get everything smooth.
A bit of hairspray ( Aquanet ), and you are ready to cover.
Works great.
#10

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I hesitate to recommend epoxy under areas to be covered. It must be very smooth and the adhesive doesn't stick to epoxy very well. The hair spray does help and is a good tip. This also works on bare balsa. Really helps the covering stay in place. It is much cheaper than Balsarite, but the Balsarite soaks into the wood much deeper, and that is why I recommend it more. I always seal the engine compartments (after and over the overlapped covering) with epoxy thinned with alcohol. Even 5 minute works for this as the alcohol slows down the set time. His question was about wood (under) covering, hence the suggestion of Balsarite, a very good product for preping covered areas IMO.
#11
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I always seal the engine compartments (after and over the overlapped covering) with epoxy thinned with alcohol. Even 5 minute works for this as the alcohol slows down the set time.
I always seal the engine compartments (after and over the overlapped covering) with epoxy thinned with alcohol. Even 5 minute works for this as the alcohol slows down the set time.
How does it look?
And what happens if you later have to remove the covering?
Thanks.
#12

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ORIGINAL: opjose
Over the coating?
And what happens if you later have to remove the covering? How does it look?
Thanks.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I always seal the engine compartments (after and over the overlapped covering) with epoxy thinned with alcohol. Even 5 minute works for this as the alcohol slows down the set time.
I always seal the engine compartments (after and over the overlapped covering) with epoxy thinned with alcohol. Even 5 minute works for this as the alcohol slows down the set time.
And what happens if you later have to remove the covering? How does it look?
Thanks.
As to how it looks, you don't see it. It's under the cowl, in the engine compartment where you have done the rest of the fuel proofing.




