Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I placed the drilled cowl on the fuselage and then mounted a prop. I wanted to get the cowling positioned as close to the prop as possible. Because of the right thrust built into the fuselage, the left side prop blade is closer to the cowl than the right. So I just lined it up as best as I could, and then used tape to hold it in place. I then set it down on the floor and looked at it from various angles, to be sure it looked as straight and symmetrical as I could get it. Once I was satisfied it looked right, I drilled through the holes in the cowl into the fuselage.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

After drilling the holes in the fuselage I drove in the screws, backed them out and hardened the holes with CA glue. I then mounted the cowl with the screws and put the prop back on and had a look.

Right about this time I was feeling pretty smug, like I had done an excellent job. [8D]

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

But my ultra coolness was short lived. I tried putting on a spinner and that is when I realized my error. I had set the cowl distance to the prop driver without using the spinner backplate. [:@]

On top of that, the prop I was using had a marked amount of 'back blade' for lack of a better term. That caused me to set the cowl distance further rearward than a different prop with less 'back blade' would have done. At this point I tried three different props and a couple of different spinners and nothing works. Either the prop does not seat on the spinner backplate, or the prop has no 'back blade' and sticks out way too far.

Crap! [sm=red_smile.gif]

So now I have to figure out how to repair this mess. [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

My options, as I see it, are to drill new holes in the fuselage and move the cowl forward. This could be risky though, as the distance is only about 4mm and the wood might weaken between two holes so close to each other.

Or I could machine the back side of the prop drive, effectively moving it rearward 3 to 4 mm. But this would cause that one prop to rub the cowl. That's no good. Maybe I can add spacers behind the prop? No, because then the spinner cone would not fit.

Aarrgghh!! [sm=confused_smile.gif]

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Someone else suggested I simply shorten the spacers on the mount screws. That would work. I am also thinking of ordering an extra prop driver, and just machining the prop drivers to the lengths I need for different prop designs.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I made some positive progress today at least. I solved the problem with the motor shaft bushing.

I made a smaller diameter bushing. This fits up against the circlip and then the larger bushing with the grub screw butts up against the smaller bushing, is tightened, and the circlip is now supported. And as a failsafe backup, if the circlip still breaks, the larger bushing cannot pass through the X-mount so it will still stop the motor shaft and prop from exiting.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Time to move on and get with the build again.

The servos are installed next, following the sequence in the construction manual. I typically place a servo in its spot, and use a finger drill to make pilot holes. Then I drive the screw into the hole to cut threads. I remove the screw and harden the threads with CA. I do all screw holes at one time. The picture attached is a composite of a servo in place, the finger drill through the servo mount, the holes in the servo tray, and a screw started in one of the holes. The second picture is the completed servo installation, both servos installed and screwed down.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I now deviated from the sequence in the manual. Next is supposed to be installing the main gear. I chose to install the tail wheel gear first.

This was a real PITA. [:'(]

The gear is secured by four machine screws and nuts. To insert a screw, you have to go through the opening at the very rear of the fuselage. The only way I could figure how to do it, was to use tweezers. This will really test your manual dexterity!

After several minutes and a few choice cuss words, I had all four screws inserted. I had to use the tweezers again, this time to hold the 3mm nut while reaching in from the back with a screwdriver to turn the screws. Eventually everything was all tightened and I added a drop of CA to lock each nut.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

The main gear is installed next. Attached is a photo of all the main gear parts. The gear is indeed spring loaded when completed, I discovered.

The manual shows how to bend the end of the gear struts, so I used some pliers and bent them exactly as shown. In the end, I had to bend them back half as much again when finishing the completed gear.

On the plus side, there are tiny little dimples in the covering where the mounting screws go. I went to drill the first dimple, and my drill pushed right through! The person who covered this plane got each and every dimple on both sides and bottom lined up with the pre-drilled holes in the wood absolutely spot on!

I simply pushed my drill through the holes on the bottom of the fuselage from inside. Everyone lined up on the outside.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Okay, so the holes for the main gear wire were not drilled perpendicular. I used the drill bit by hand and eventually got the holes straight enough. The covering must be cut away from where the gear wire sets down into the fuselage. Then the included nylon straps and screws are installed to secure the gear.

Their is a neat little machined and drilled/tapped block that slips over the main gear wire, and also secures the minor rear leg wire. There are no specifics at all mentioned in the manual, and not much in the way of drawings either. Left to my own decisions, I lined things up the way I felt they should be, and then used the last nylon strap to secure the minor rear gear wire.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

The aluminum tube struts have a wood dowel, painted black, to simulate the rubber boot that would cover the shaft of the shock absorber on the full size airplane. Inside the tube is placed the spring. When attaching the tubes to the landing gear it actually gets pre-loaded against the spring. As mentioned earlier, I had to bend back the ends slightly to line up flush against the fuselage and landing gear.

The hardware package includes some nice wheel collars that are machined with a small radius on one side. This radius fits neatly against the hub of the wheel, reducing the amount of surface contact that a straight edged collar would have. This is designed, I presume, to reduce friction. The collars are also knurled on the outside edge. Something to be aware of however, is that the collars are aluminum. Don't over tighten the grub screw as you could easily strips the aluminum threads.

I mounted the wheels and felt a major milestone had been reached now that the 'Bird was on its feet!

rgm762

My Feedback: (4)

kmot; mine arrived today, and your right, it's beautiful, nothing broke including that antenna, covering is nice and tight, looks like all the parts and pieces are there, now i have to wait [sm=cry_smile.gif][sm=cry_smile.gif]

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Congratulations!

Well, at least you have possession of it. I here they are back ordered till next year. [X(]

rgm762

My Feedback: (4)

yea, Tomas is still showing them in stock, but hobby people showing 12/30, doesn't matter, I'd rather buy from Tomas, he's taken excellant care of me in the past, including this one

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Yeah, right on.

I had to clear everything off my work bench, err.... dining table this morning so that when my grand-daughter came over today she could do her homework. After she went home I brought everything back out. [sm=thumbup.gif]

I was just going to play around a bit with connecting the Rx and thinking about where to place it inside the plane. Well, one thing led to another and I sat down at the table and started doing more work. You know how that goes!

So I looked at the next phase of construction in the manual. It called for first installing the linkage rods for the rudder and elevator. Which is actually premature because the tail surfaces still need to be glued on. One thing the manual shows, is making a z-bend for the rudder rod. The guide tube is just in the middle of the fuselage and they expect you to use this method. Nope, sorry. It is much more sensible to run the control rod straight through and bring the guide tube all the way to the opening on the fuselage. So that is how I will do mine.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

The horizontal stab and elevator look identical on both top and bottom. The center section of the covering needs to be cut away for gluing purposes. I looked for a seam and found one, and made that side the 'bottom'. When I removed the vertical stab and rudder from its plastic bag, I saw a CA fingerprint left by the factory worker. Honest, I did not leave that mark myself! [X(]

All the control surfaces come pre-hinged and glued from the factory. I have tugged really hard on them to be sure the hinges will not pull out and they are glued in very well. The rudder though, must be removed to install the tailwheel gear control rod and so those hinges are only glued on one side, in the rudder itself. This gave me an opportunity to have a good look at the hinges. They are not CA hinges but are pinned hinges.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Next, I cut away the covering from the top of the fuselage area for the vertical fin, and from the base of the fin itself and then dry fitted them. I then took a measurement of the tailwheel steering gear rod and made a pencil mark on the rudder and drilled the hole for the rod. Then I attached the rudder to see how it all came together.

After this was done I laid the horizontal stab in place and made some pencil lines to mark the outer boundaries of the fuselage. I then cut away a portion of the center covering from the stab. I also removed a little more of the overlapping covering on top of the fuselage to provide more wood gluing surface.

I assembled all the tail feathers again, dry, and now found the rudder would no longer fit. Turned out to be 3/16" interference. I measured it on the bottom of the rudder and cut away the covering. I figured if my math was off I was really going to be mad, lol. That was going to be it for tonight. But I came to my computer and was looking at photos of the real 3G-EL and noticed on it, and subsequently on all Pilatus Turbo Porters, that the rudder is not square on the bottom but angled up steeply.

Holding the rudder up to my computer screen and matching it against photos of real PC-6's I got the angle of the dangle pretty close and drew my lines and then cut away the covering. Tomorrow I cut away the wood.

Speaking of wood, anyone recognize this species? It sure isn't balsa wood!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Got lots done today.

The rudder got trimmed first. Then I dry fitted all the tail surfaces. I found that the fuselage was not square to the wing, where the horizontal stabilizer mounts. So I knew I was going to have to fix that. In the meantime, I enjoyed some posing of the model with all the major sub-assemblies attached.

In these photos, you can see that the horizontal stab and the wing are not parallel:

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I sanded the high side of the fuselage at the rear where the horizontal stab mounts. Once I got it looking level I glued it and the vertical stab into place. But first I trimmed away some covering from the vertical stab.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I use plenty of 30 Minute epoxy. And so I also use plenty of paper towels and 91% isopropyl alcohol to wipe off the excess epoxy that squeezes out. The alcohol tended to remove some of the coloring from the covering. If your are going to build a VQ model and use a glow engine, it might behoove you to apply a clear coat over the finish first.

I next installed the rudder, using thin CA to glue the hinges into the vertical stab and using medium CA to glue the tail wheel steering rod into the rudder.

Now was the time to install the control rods for the rudder and elevator. Those trick looking servo lock connectors did not inspire confidence in me that they would not loosen up. I am aware that Loctite can weaken plastics, so I just applied a drop to the already tightened nut and stud. This is not the ideal way to use Loctite, but I have done it this way in the past and it will eventually harden and hold a nut from backing off.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I now applied masking tape around the control rod guide tubes where they exit the fuselage. The tape was to protect the finish when I sawed the tubes flush. I had about 1/4" stroke I could take, using my razor saw. Yes, it took awhile.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

I installed the control rods and connected them to the servo horns. After setting the controls at neutral and locking the connectors I cut off the excess rod.

Next up was to put the tailwheel steering gear cover back on. But that required clearancing the bushing now.

The fences for the horizontal stab need to have the covering cut away from the opening. The manual suggests using CA to glue them on. But since they get glued directly onto the covering of the stab I did not think CA was the best choice. Instead, I used some good old fashioned Elmer's white glue.

So that's it for tonight. The 'empannage' is finished. Woot!

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Any suggestions for letting the hot air out? I have seen electric only models, that have slots on the underside. Is that the "SOP" to be used on this model? The manual makes no mention of cooling for an electric setup.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

The white glue did not work. I tested the hold this morning and the fences broke free easily. [sm=red_smile.gif]

So VQ had it right, I used thin CA with kicker and they are locked in place.

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Okay, just got back from getting my H1N1 vaccination shot. Whew! [8D]

After the last post I set to work on the cooling vents. I drew my lines in pencil, and made initial cuts to remove the covering. Then I followed those cut lines deeper with my Xacto knife and removed the rectangular sections of balsa. Next, using a radius gage I made the round ends, and cut those out.

For the holes in the firewall, I made the first hole nicely centered. I measured and drilled the second hole just right. I measured and screwed up the third hole by not double checking my measurement and being in a hurry. [:@]

"Measure twice and cut once", because I didn't. I never learn, arrgh!

Anyway, I installed the ESC and wired it to the motor. It fits really well. I then put the battery tray back in and placed a 5000 mAh 4S pack inside to check the fit. I think I will just add some velcro to the battery tray. This is how I hold battery packs in fast boats so it should work just as well in this airplane. But, for redundancy I will also use a strap.

In the last photo you can see the ESC through the slots in the fuselage, and the ventilated case of the ESC.

What do you guys think?

rgm762

My Feedback: (4)

wish I knew more about electric to help, might post in the electric forum?

your doing great, keep it up