Ultrastick 40 questions
#1
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From: Stilesville,
IN
Hello I am getting ready to buy a Haner 9 Ultrastick 40! I am wondering if you guys have any tips for me as far as what to get with the kit and all that good stuff.
As for radio system I have narrowed the choices down to the Futaba 6CH 2.4ghz or the Spektrum 6CH 2.4ghz. You can get servos with both of these. I was wondering if they would be okay to use with this kit. I guess though if I went with a Spektrum kit I could allways have the option to get a bind and fly plane from Horizon Hobby.
I think that I want to go with an OS 46 engine. Would this be a good choice?
Well any advice would be great!
Thanks
As for radio system I have narrowed the choices down to the Futaba 6CH 2.4ghz or the Spektrum 6CH 2.4ghz. You can get servos with both of these. I was wondering if they would be okay to use with this kit. I guess though if I went with a Spektrum kit I could allways have the option to get a bind and fly plane from Horizon Hobby.
I think that I want to go with an OS 46 engine. Would this be a good choice?
Well any advice would be great!
Thanks
#2
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From: Endicott,
NY
The standard servos that come with either radio are fine for this model. I fly a JR 9 CH 2.4 but either radio you mention is fine, since evidently you're in the market for a new radio I would advise a 7 channel over a 6, both Futaba and JR/Spektrum offer good choices if you can swing the price difference. Down the road you'll appreciate the additional capabilities in a 7 Channel vs a 6., my 2 cents.
It's great airplane, flew one for several years with an OS 50SX and a Saito 82. The Saito was more fun, but the OS was very good...which OS are you interested in? An FX or AX series would be excellent, if you're looking into an LA 46 I would recommend something else, perhaps a Thunder Tiger Pro 46.
It's great airplane, flew one for several years with an OS 50SX and a Saito 82. The Saito was more fun, but the OS was very good...which OS are you interested in? An FX or AX series would be excellent, if you're looking into an LA 46 I would recommend something else, perhaps a Thunder Tiger Pro 46.
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From: peoria, AZ
either engine is fine. mount your rudder and elevator servos at the rear of the plane. kinda like the h-9 twist. this plane is nose heavy and this helps a lot w/ the cg
#7

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Get rid of the aluminum motor mount and use a great Planes universal 40 mount and you can the leave the servos where they are

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#8
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
Get rid of the aluminum motor mount and use a great Planes universal 40 mount and you can the leave the servos where they are
Get rid of the aluminum motor mount and use a great Planes universal 40 mount and you can the leave the servos where they are
I am going to build my second Ultra Stick 40 and would like to use your recommended mount to get rid of the CG problem with this plane.
I am going to use an OS .46 AX.
Thank you. Todd
#9

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I have done four of the 40 size Ultra Sticks
Two of them I redrilled the bolt holes in the fire wall
The last one I used the metal motor mount as a pattern and redrilled the plastic mount
I use the Great Planes 40-70 mount
The plastic mounts are neat in that you can drill and tap the beams for the screws. You do not even have to use lock washers for the plastic will grip the 4-40 or 6-32 screws. No nuts on the back side. Just the screws into the plastic.
I consider sheet metal screws to be too soft but they will self tap and will not back out of a plastic beam.
Two of them I redrilled the bolt holes in the fire wall
The last one I used the metal motor mount as a pattern and redrilled the plastic mount
I use the Great Planes 40-70 mount
The plastic mounts are neat in that you can drill and tap the beams for the screws. You do not even have to use lock washers for the plastic will grip the 4-40 or 6-32 screws. No nuts on the back side. Just the screws into the plastic.
I consider sheet metal screws to be too soft but they will self tap and will not back out of a plastic beam.
#10
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From: Stilesville,
IN
So with the 46ax do I need a bigger fuel tank? How long can you guys stay up with the stock tank. Also I have read that some people have had problems with the fuel tank leaking. Have you guys had any issues?
#14
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
I have done four of the 40 size Ultra Sticks
Two of them I redrilled the bolt holes in the fire wall
The last one I used the metal motor mount as a pattern and redrilled the plastic mount
I use the Great Planes 40-70 mount
The plastic mounts are neat in that you can drill and tap the beams for the screws. You do not even have to use lock washers for the plastic will grip the 4-40 or 6-32 screws. No nuts on the back side. Just the screws into the plastic.
I consider sheet metal screws to be too soft but they will self tap and will not back out of a plastic beam.
I have done four of the 40 size Ultra Sticks
Two of them I redrilled the bolt holes in the fire wall
The last one I used the metal motor mount as a pattern and redrilled the plastic mount
I use the Great Planes 40-70 mount
The plastic mounts are neat in that you can drill and tap the beams for the screws. You do not even have to use lock washers for the plastic will grip the 4-40 or 6-32 screws. No nuts on the back side. Just the screws into the plastic.
I consider sheet metal screws to be too soft but they will self tap and will not back out of a plastic beam.
Todd
#15

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I just moved up this season from my trainer and have been flying the snot out of my UltraStick 40. Mine is powered with a Saito .62 so it's a bit light on raw power but has decent vertical.
Only changes I'd recommend are:
[ul][*] Get rid of the aluminum motor mount - mine required quite a bit of tail weight[*] A Sullivan tail wheel should work better but I'm still using the stock assembly[*] I've ripped out the LG block on one of my first landings. Changing the blind nuts to an SAE size and corresponding nylon landing gear bolts is recommended[*] The seams in my covering are loosening. Seal the seams with some type of sealer[*] I'm still using the supplied stock tank with no problems. Other club members have been having nightmares with fuel leaks and OEM ARF tanks
[/ul]
For an all-around utility-sport airplane, the UltraStick is hard to beat.
Only changes I'd recommend are:
[ul][*] Get rid of the aluminum motor mount - mine required quite a bit of tail weight[*] A Sullivan tail wheel should work better but I'm still using the stock assembly[*] I've ripped out the LG block on one of my first landings. Changing the blind nuts to an SAE size and corresponding nylon landing gear bolts is recommended[*] The seams in my covering are loosening. Seal the seams with some type of sealer[*] I'm still using the supplied stock tank with no problems. Other club members have been having nightmares with fuel leaks and OEM ARF tanks
[/ul]
For an all-around utility-sport airplane, the UltraStick is hard to beat.
#16

My Feedback: (16)
ORIGINAL: PipeMajor
I just moved up this season from my trainer and have been flying the snot out of my UltraStick 40. Mine is powered with a Saito .62 so it's a bit light on raw power but has decent vertical.
Only changes I'd recommend are:
[ul][*] Get rid of the aluminum motor mount - mine required quite a bit of tail weight[*] A Sullivan tail wheel should work better but I'm still using the stock assembly[*] I've ripped out the LG block on one of my first landings. Changing the blind nuts to an SAE size and corresponding nylon landing gear bolts is recommended[*] The seams in my covering are loosening. Seal the seams with some type of sealer[*] I'm still using the supplied stock tank with no problems. Other club members have been having nightmares with fuel leaks and OEM ARF tanks
[/ul]
For an all-around utility-sport airplane, the UltraStick is hard to beat.
I just moved up this season from my trainer and have been flying the snot out of my UltraStick 40. Mine is powered with a Saito .62 so it's a bit light on raw power but has decent vertical.
Only changes I'd recommend are:
[ul][*] Get rid of the aluminum motor mount - mine required quite a bit of tail weight[*] A Sullivan tail wheel should work better but I'm still using the stock assembly[*] I've ripped out the LG block on one of my first landings. Changing the blind nuts to an SAE size and corresponding nylon landing gear bolts is recommended[*] The seams in my covering are loosening. Seal the seams with some type of sealer[*] I'm still using the supplied stock tank with no problems. Other club members have been having nightmares with fuel leaks and OEM ARF tanks
[/ul]
For an all-around utility-sport airplane, the UltraStick is hard to beat.
It is aerobatic enough
#17
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From: Snohomish, WA
These are the modifications I made to My US40
Reinforce the firewall with 3/8" triangle stock
Pin the firewall - personal preference
Reinforce the landing gear plate
Reinforce all sides of the servo tray with triangle stock
Reinforce the ply plate where the wing dowels go into
Fuel proof the fuel compartment and the bottom of the equipment bay
Add a third screw to the landing gear to create a triangle pattern
Replace the tailwheel with a Sullivan tailwheel unit
Install blind nuts for Sullivan tailwheel prior to starting tail assembly
Replace Hanger 9 11oz. Fuel tank with a Sullivan FRST 12oz. Flex tank
Replace the motor mount with a Dave Brown or similar motor mount
Install a small piece of 1/32†ply inside on the left fuselage side where the switch mounts
Pin the stabilizer - personal preference
Reinforce the firewall with 3/8" triangle stock
Pin the firewall - personal preference
Reinforce the landing gear plate
Reinforce all sides of the servo tray with triangle stock
Reinforce the ply plate where the wing dowels go into
Fuel proof the fuel compartment and the bottom of the equipment bay
Add a third screw to the landing gear to create a triangle pattern
Replace the tailwheel with a Sullivan tailwheel unit
Install blind nuts for Sullivan tailwheel prior to starting tail assembly
Replace Hanger 9 11oz. Fuel tank with a Sullivan FRST 12oz. Flex tank
Replace the motor mount with a Dave Brown or similar motor mount
Install a small piece of 1/32†ply inside on the left fuselage side where the switch mounts
Pin the stabilizer - personal preference
#18
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From: Wolf,
WY
Don't get rid of the metal motor mount too soon though, mine was tail heavy even with it(I used a MDS .48). I know a guy that has an os .46AX and it is enough for fairly good vertical at around 4200 ft. above sea level but the .55AX has more power and it weighs less.
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From: Auckland, NEW ZEALAND
Hi all, I'm building my 1st US 40 and powering it with an AX.55.
I've incorporated most of the mods on this thread, but am unsure as to how to secure the tank. Also, what kind of foam should I use, is there a fuel safe type?
One more please;-) How many of you have gone with flaps over regular ailerons?
Many thanks,
Buzz
Auckland, NZ
I've incorporated most of the mods on this thread, but am unsure as to how to secure the tank. Also, what kind of foam should I use, is there a fuel safe type?
One more please;-) How many of you have gone with flaps over regular ailerons?
Many thanks,
Buzz
Auckland, NZ
#23
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From: Snohomish, WA
That seems a silly reason to not put in the flaps, to save the weight of 2 servos. It isn't going to make any difference to how the plane flies that 99% of modelers would notice.



