frankeldan

Ahhh... Tux ... I remember those days. I flew a few times this week. Was at the field on Friday and it was windy. I just few helis with the guys.

If you get a chance can you drop off the revolver gear and put it in the clubhouse bottom drawer of the file cabinet. I don't like to fly my Revolver with the tall gear .. too tipsey when landing.

I plan to maybe doing some flight instruction on Thursday nights too.


Later,

Dan

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

I couldn't stand it any longer and so I (bench) fired up the 120AX in my Revolver today. The 17X6 APC prop was turning approx 8,700 RPM. I didn't meassure it, but the static thrust on the bench was pretty incredible. Quiet too! My plane weighs in at 9lb 2oz, so that's about 1hp per 3 pounds of plane... Again, I had to place my 5-Cell (6 volt) battery pack about 1/2 way back from the servo tray to the front of the vert stab. I haven't read anything specific about any CG 'issues' like this, so I was curious before I try a flight.

mike boxtall

In balancing it laterally I found I had to add about an ounce of lead in the right wing tip. I also found that the spinner and back plate were pretty out of balance also.

ptuxbury

I'm going to need some help from the few of you that have mounted a 120 4-stroke in your plane.

So I mounted the fuel tank in the plane and went to mount the throttle servo, but ran into a couple of concerns that are related to the use of my 120 4-stroke.

The first is that the metal tubes coming out of the fuel tank actually protrude through the hole in the firewall, and since I'm using the 120 4-stroke, the engine backplate is pretty close to the firewall itself. That doesn't leave very much room to bend the silicon fuel tubing where it comes out of the metal tubes. Once, on my smaller Revolver, I had this cause the silicon tubing to split where is went over the metal tube and I didn't notice until well after I started filling the fuel tank (turns out that I filled up the fuselage instead). That time the metal tubes had very sharp edges. I was very careful this time to make sure I sanded the edges of the metal tubing so they aren't sharp, but only time will tell if I have the same issue again.

The second question has to do with the throttle. The 120 4-stroke is large enough so the throttle arm actually extends to the outside of the sides of the firewall/engine mounting box. So I cannot do what they recommend on step 4, page 14 of the instructions where it says to mark and drill a hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod tubing. I actually have to drill the hole in the front former (to the outside of the right side wall of the firewall/engine mounting box) and extend the tube forward to reach to the throttle arm. The problem with this comes when mounting the throttle servo. Instead of having the throttle pushrod come through the firewall on on the inside of the tray that holds the fuel tank, it comes through the front former to the outside of the right side of that tray. I'm re-making the servo mounting plate so I can push it right up against the right side of the fuel mount tray, allowing the arm to extend out where my throttle pushrod comes through the former. I hope this will work. What did other folks who used a 120 4-stroke with this plane have to do?

Finally, I have a feeling that this plane will be seriously nose heavy with all of the modifications I'm making up front (glass firewall, thicker servo mount tray, 120 4-stroke). I may have to mount my battery way back, or add weight to the tail. What did other users of 120 4-strokes find when balancing their planes?

Thanks in advance, guys.

-Tux

Widget

My Feedback: (1)

Tux, on the fuel tank lines, I placed a little foam with a 1" circle cut out ahead of the tank, which set the lines back just enough. On the battery placement, even with the weight of my OS 120AX, I cut out the covering on the bottom of the plane in the very last 2 "bays" that gave me just enough wiggle room to fit a 6 Cell battery pack and used plastic ties (6 of them!) to secure it to the formers. The control rod tubes leave very little room, but it worked...

wjcalhoun

Well, guys, I ordered my Revolver; chose the OS 1.20AX rather than the .95AX; trivially more weight, better power, and the flexibility of transverse mounting for the muffler were the deciding factors.

Have any of you installed the elevator servo(s) aft, rather than using the 'Y' pushrod system in the manual? That system seems doomed to slip and allow the elevator halves to move out of alignment.

On the fuel tank issue, I have had occasion to mount the tank backwards - stopper and tubing aft; with a cowled airframe and fueling valve, it seems to work without problems.

ptuxbury

I agree - the elevator pushrod setup worried me, so I used the Dave Brown fiberglass pushrod system. No chance of it slipping now. I posted a picture here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9605400

jet22b

Tux;

Here are a few pictures on what I did on my OS 1.20 FS Revolver. The fuel tank was set as per the manual, but, I did short the carb pickup tube so I could add the fuel line so it would have a free flow to the carb. As you can see the line to the carb has a sweet flow!! The throttle push rod was a snap. As you can see in the pictures, the rod is almost at the top of the box and a straight shot to the throttle servo. If you are using a OS 1.20SE FS, mount the engine and take a pen, lay it on the throttle arm of the engine and make a mark. Remove engine and drill the rod hole. Remove the tank before drilling!!! Look at the picture of the throttle servo and you can see it is set as per the manual. I have a 3600 mAh 6 volts battery just in front of the servo bay and the plane CG is as per the manual. The battery picture is the last one. The plane is a bit nose heavy, but, all my plane are that way. I have over 20 flight with this setup and no problem so far. I hope this help you out, and you will love this plane. I try hard not to take it the the field,but, I am weak!!
Any other question, please post and I will do my best to answer!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

So I'm flying the Rev 70 (with OS 91 2S) today in a windy NY (15mph, gusts up to 30). Things were going fine - had smooth takeoffs and landings on the first two flights. The wind was pushing the plane around a bit, but manageable. And the wind make the Revolver REALLY hang during the upright and inverted "floats". Then on the third flight I went to try my first snap-roll with this plane (just started doing them with the 59", and it's fun). So - did the snap-roll and then I see something white fluttering down from the plane. ****E!! First thing is I realized that I still have control of the plane. Then I'm also trying to see what piece just dropped off, and also watch the fluttering white piece as it falls to the ground. (was flying over a shoreline at the time of "separation" - fortunately, the wind was blowing onshore. So then was able to control the plane and landed it without much trouble - and could then see that the rudder was gone! No other damage to the plane (other than a broken clevis). After 10 mins of searching the field I finally found the rudder - also, no damage, other than ripped hinges.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Oh - will re-attach the rudder tonight - with 4 or 5 hinges instead of 3 - and try more snap-rolls tomorrow.

jet22b

microdon2;

You also may want to pin the hinges using toothpick!! I have use them for over 21 years and I have had no problem. I just don't trust the CA hinges. People say they are good, but, they can fail!!! Glad you got it down okay!!! If you want to have some fun, try landing the plane in a 25 knots cross wind!!! Lots of pucker factor!!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

seagull extra

My Feedback: (12)

Glad to see you didn't have any serious damage microdon. My revolver is arriving at my local hobby shop this friday.I have been looking into what I will need to do to get the muffler on my 91 surpass fully enclosed in the cowl and I think I have found the soloution. Tower offers a 60 degree muffler fitting that I believe will allow me to rotate the muffler enough to keep it inside the cowl, I'm going to hold off on ordering it untill I first try fitting the engine as the adaptor is $35[X(]. Today I was tunning my Magnum 91 four stroke for another plane and I was getting almost 10000 RPM with a 13"x8" APC and I think the OS pulls a little harder than the Magnum so I am expecting good performance from the .91, I am really looking foward to flying the revolver.

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Jett22 - so by "pin" the hinge, do you mean to install the hinge as normal (with CA) then drill holes through the tail and rudder and hinges and insert toothpics and then glue them in place? If so, how many toothpics do you use per hinge? (I see now in my pic that at least one hinge did not rip - it was pulled out - maybe that's what started the exit of the rudder - then the other two hinges ripped...)

Mike

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I used robarts on mine it was very easy. Those suckers never come out..

jet22b

Mike,

Yes that is the way!! Hinge the Rudder as per the manual and then drill holes in the tail and rudder, then put toothpick in the tail and rudder for the 3 hinge or more that you will use. Cut and sand the toothpick flush, than add one drop of thin CA to each toothpick and you are set!!! I do this with all type of hinges. I learn this back in the 70's from a master builder. He told me hinges will fail when you don't want them too!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

mike boxtall

I still don't get what you mean Sonny. Can you post a picture? Or provide a link?
Thanks, Mike.

wjcalhoun

Or why not just use Robarts hinges, rather than trust the CA. An eerie, unrelated coincidence is, that if you fly the Revolver (70", bigger engine) in Realflight G4.5, and snap roll - the rudder comes off, consistently.

That's not why I will use Robarts hinges, because I always do, but it is a weird coincidence.

jet22b

Mike;
Here is pictures of pin hinges on one of my Tower Kaos AFR. See how the toothpick are place, ( the green dots ). One in the rudder side of the hinge and one in the tail side. One drop of thin CA on both side, let dry, and you are ready to have fun!!! I have yet to try Robarts Hinges, but I hear they are good!!
Hope the pictures helps!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

wjcalhoun - I have Realflight 4.5 but dont' have the Revolver 70". Did you get that in one of the expansion packs? And what engine does it come with?

ptuxbury

Sonny,

Thanks for posting the pictures of your OS 120 setup. My ASP 120 is slightly different. I'll post some images after lunch to show what I mean.

-Tux

wjcalhoun

Swap pages were the source for the 70" revolver. You can change out the engine, prop, etc; I was using a 0.95 AX as the 'torque generator'.
I only raised the issue because to the extent that the physics are properly modeled in RF, one can get a sense of the performance characteristics produced by changes in wt, CG, power, etc. I was just struck that the rudder comes off on the sim, and there was 'real life' confirmation that such structural failures may occur.

Has anyone else had rudder failure during a snap roll? If so, details would be helpful: positive or negative snap, high-speed/low-speed, details of your airframe setup, engine, prop, etc.

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

You are using CA hinges in a high speed plane and snapping it I am not sure why you are so surprised you had a failure. Maybe they didn't wick properly did you drill a small hole to let it wick?? maybe it was your install.

Reality is you are asking for trouble using CA hinges I did not even consider it as do most people. Sorry to sound like an ***** here but you are better off to just put Robarts in (it will take you 5 mins) with some Gorilla glue and be done with it..

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

Slats - Hey, I'm learning! Now I know about Robarts - will use them in my next 70" Revolver (which is in a box waiting to be built right now). For this Rev 70 I pinned the hinges - hopefully they'll hold. If not, I know I can land without the rudder...

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

Haha better than the elevator. Good luck.

ptuxbury

Yeah, my original thought was, "At least it wasn't the elevator that went", because then you'd be picking up the pieces.

I didn't drill the hole for to allow the CA to wick in better or pin my hinges, but I'm thinking I will now.