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Old 06-25-2017, 02:28 PM
  #8101  
wally3185
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Need some advice, I have a NIB Revolver and a RCGF 20 BM. What type of motor mount are people using? The GP mount doesn't seem wide enough. The mount that you get with the motor doesn't line up with the factory blind nuts in the firewall. I can pull those blind nuts out and relocate them, just wondered what other people have done before I start in on it. Thanks Eric
Old 06-30-2017, 03:21 PM
  #8102  
el_xero
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Originally Posted by wally3185
Need some advice, I have a NIB Revolver and a RCGF 20 BM. What type of motor mount are people using? The GP mount doesn't seem wide enough. The mount that you get with the motor doesn't line up with the factory blind nuts in the firewall. I can pull those blind nuts out and relocate them, just wondered what other people have done before I start in on it. Thanks Eric
Hi
Okay so I see "BM" in the name meaning beam mount I think?
Buuut when I looked up that engine even in videos it seems it's whats called rail mount?
Hmm.
I dunno maybe it's the same thing I'm a little fuzzy right now.

Anyway here's a link for a Dubro split mount with vibration dampeners on amazon (affiliate link) http://amzn.to/2sqwN8w
Normally I'd go with a tower hobbies, but it's $42.99 on tower???
Only $37.45 on amazon and with FREE shipping, no free shipping on ebay so it's a no brainier right?
I'll see what else I can find but honestly this should more than fit your bill.
Alternatively you could just cut your present mount? I've done this before and had pretty okay results with that too.
Or you could save it for a later project and get this dubro vibration reducing metal one. Less vibration is always
a good thing in airplanes with gas engines right?
Oh in case you might want to go with an opto kill switch, this one's really popular http://amzn.to/2u8pdN9


Anywa this is a rather long thread with 325 pages.
I can't remember how to use the search to find the exact posts of people on here using this exact mount?
However I pretty sure that at least a couple of people have used it.
It's a bit more weight but if you build it like any of the guys on here.
Eg: Putting servos in the back for the elevator then that mount will not be an issue!
You're going to love that plane for sure. I have not seen a single person in here who didn't like it. It's truly a blast to fly!
Knockoffs has some great content on youtube with this plane be sure to check it out! He really rips up the sky with it!
Lemme know if you need anything else, or just browse through this thread. Lots of great info on here just start from this page and work your way back.

Happy Landings!

Last edited by el_xero; 10-08-2017 at 04:53 PM.
Old 07-07-2017, 09:06 AM
  #8103  
microdon2
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Default Rev 70 set up for inverted landings \ take offs

I just set up one of my Rev 70's to land \ take off inverted. Will maiden this setup tomorrow at Floyd Bennett field in Brooklyn. Given how stable this plane is inverted, and that I'm comfortable doing low, very slow, inverted passes, and this OS 120 engine is very reliable, I don't think landings will be a problem. And I've got 2.5" of prop clearance, so that should be ok, as long as I don't bounce it (I normally use an APC 16x8, but to create more ground clearance I'm going with an APC 14x12). Both additional sets of gears are bolted on and, so, removable. The CG looks good at about 6" (didn't even have to move the battery!). Take-offs may be a bit more challenging, but I'm gonna find out. Biggest concern is that the four Robart hinges on the rudder will hold through landings, do I'm going to try to land SOFT. Wish me luck!
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Old 07-09-2017, 04:51 PM
  #8104  
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Never a dull moment. How did it go?
Old 07-09-2017, 05:17 PM
  #8105  
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Hey AHICKS. Got the Rev70 up (normal orientation) no problem - needed only minor re-trimming in the air. And then seemed to fly fine, both normal and inverted. One unexpected development was - with two sets of main gears sticking out in oppositte directions - it was very easy to lose orientation and not know which way was up (especially when the plane was at distance). Was a bit unnerving! The guy spotting me said he couldn't tell which way was up. I kept reminding myself to focus on the PLANE, not the gear (though there were about three moments when I did lose it for a second). I decided to come in and land normally first. I was coming down fine, by the far end of the runway, maybe 6ft high, when the plane started banking left, and then would not respond to my controls to try to pull it back. It was like I lost radio contact (which has been reported A LOT at this field this summer, but that's another story). So it went down onto the left wingtip. The hard landing and engine weight snapped the engine box off, both wing tips badly scrapped, one wheel damaged. It's fixable, but I (and a few guys at the field) were bummed that I couldn't complete the inverted landing testing. Will fix it this week and try again next Saturday. Will also change the plane from 72\PCM \ NiMh to 2.4 \ LIFE (though I don't know if the 72 part had anything to do with it.) I suppose it's POSSIBLE that the extra gear and weight had something to do with this crash, but I doubt it. Seemed pretty stable.
Old 07-31-2017, 05:52 AM
  #8106  
jmpups
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Default Revolver 70

Can anyone tell me the total length of the Revolver, rudder to prop? Thanks, jmpups
Old 07-31-2017, 03:40 PM
  #8107  
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Originally Posted by microdon2
I just set up one of my Rev 70's to land \ take off inverted. Will maiden this setup tomorrow at Floyd Bennett field in Brooklyn. Given how stable this plane is inverted, and that I'm comfortable doing low, very slow, inverted passes, and this OS 120 engine is very reliable, I don't think landings will be a problem. And I've got 2.5" of prop clearance, so that should be ok, as long as I don't bounce it (I normally use an APC 16x8, but to create more ground clearance I'm going with an APC 14x12). Both additional sets of gears are bolted on and, so, removable. The CG looks good at about 6" (didn't even have to move the battery!). Take-offs may be a bit more challenging, but I'm gonna find out. Biggest concern is that the four Robart hinges on the rudder will hold through landings, do I'm going to try to land SOFT. Wish me luck!
Can you tell me what is the overall length of the Revolver 70 ? Thanks, jmpups
Old 08-12-2017, 05:15 AM
  #8108  
wally3185
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Using a RCGF 20RE on the Revolver I'm getting ready. I have some Hitec karbonite high voltage standard servos, Will these be ok with the gas motor. I would not hesitate to use them with a large two stroke glow motor like an OS. What would be the difference in vibration if any?
Old 08-12-2017, 07:21 AM
  #8109  
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Originally Posted by wally3185
Using a RCGF 20RE on the Revolver I'm getting ready. I have some Hitec karbonite high voltage standard servos, Will these be ok with the gas motor. I would not hesitate to use them with a large two stroke glow motor like an OS. What would be the difference in vibration if any?
I would NOT use carbonate.gear servos in gas planes. They are brittle and can break under the stress and vibration. Ask me how I know.
Old 08-12-2017, 06:06 PM
  #8110  
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jmpups - the Rev 70 is about 57", nose to tail.
Old 08-13-2017, 03:50 AM
  #8111  
ahicks
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Originally Posted by microdon2
I would NOT use carbonate.gear servos in gas planes. They are brittle and can break under the stress and vibration. Ask me how I know.


Same here, for the same reason. I wouldn't use those on anything but an electric.
Old 08-20-2017, 07:49 AM
  #8112  
Lifer
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I lost 2 planes using karbonite servos. Don't use them on a gas plane......
Old 08-25-2017, 12:19 PM
  #8113  
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I finally got to maiden my Revolver. The flight went really well. It is a pretty quick plane with the DLE20. Landing didn’t go so well. I had programmed spoilerons based on what I read here. And at a low flight speed with them active, they seemed to be working and slowing me down. So on the landing I was about 3 feet off the field and it dropped like a rock. Amazingly nothing broke. All the landing gear mods I got from here paid off. I guess next time I’ll skip the spoilerons and just see what it does. I think maybe they slowed me down too much and I actually stalled. After that landing I quit while I was ahead and only flew the one time. What a great looking plane in the air.
Old 08-25-2017, 04:37 PM
  #8114  
ahicks
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With the CG properly located, that plane will land as slow as anything you've ever flown. No need for anything fancy to give you a hand.

The suggested CG is pretty typical for kit mfgs, being way forward of where the plane really likes to fly. After a few test flights, you can safely move that back at least 1/2". Some of us that became very proficient with it, moved it back quite a bit further than that....
Old 08-29-2017, 10:47 AM
  #8115  
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Thanks ahicks. I moved the CG back 1/2” farther than the 5 1/2” in the manual and flew it today. It was definitely slower on landings. And nicer to fly in the air. The way the wind was today, I had to drop in over some trees at one end of the field. And with my not so great landing skills, it was still a bit exciting to get it to stop in time. So I reduced the spoileron settings and turned them on for my last landing. I think that was just about right for me. Thanks for the help.
Old 08-29-2017, 03:55 PM
  #8116  
ahicks
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When you get all settled in flying the plane, have a look at your elevators when they're trimmed for straight and level flight. If they are trimmed "up", even just a little, you can move your CG back further yet....
Old 08-29-2017, 04:04 PM
  #8117  
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Rolling inverted is another check to fine-tune the balance. If it needs a lot of forward stick, it's still nose heavy.
Old 09-02-2017, 02:39 AM
  #8118  
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Thanks guys. Good info. I’ll see what I can do.
Old 09-15-2017, 04:40 AM
  #8119  
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Does any body know if you can use a Hitec servo programmer to program a Savox servo.
Old 09-20-2017, 02:55 AM
  #8120  
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Sad new on my Revolver. I got overwhelmed switching to throttle cut/spoilerons coming in to land and plowed into the rough area before the runway. The fuselage is trashed but everything else survived. So I ordered a new fuse for $104 from Tower. Should be easy to put it all back together. I flew for my first 4 years at an open field that had no designated landing strip and lost out on a lot of landing learning. I'm going to use a cheaper plane and just practice landings for a long time.
Old 09-20-2017, 04:14 AM
  #8121  
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No second thoughts regarding the need for throttle cut/spoilerons?
Old 09-20-2017, 02:12 PM
  #8122  
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The throttle cut came about from stalling the engine on a plane and destroying it. That’s when I discovered the concept of an idle up for flying around. So I think that’s worth keeping. But the spoilerons are probably not needed with better landing skills. All together it was a little too much all happening at the same time for me to handle. As usual with this hobby, I learn things the hard way. But it’s still great fun. Thanks
Old 09-27-2017, 04:59 PM
  #8123  
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Originally Posted by oldsneakers
The throttle cut came about from stalling the engine on a plane and destroying it. That’s when I discovered the concept of an idle up for flying around. So I think that’s worth keeping. But the spoilerons are probably not needed with better landing skills. All together it was a little too much all happening at the same time for me to handle. As usual with this hobby, I learn things the hard way. But it’s still great fun. Thanks
Yes agreed. They are not needed, but if you insist on using them I'd suggest only engaging them when your low over the runway. I used them once on my maiden and I enabled them about 2 feet off the ground. They helped to pin me down on the roll out but even then it wasn't needed as my approach was already slow to begin with. Back then I had an O.S. 1.20 on there (lovely engine) but Much prefer the DLE20cc. You just practice those circuits and slow approaches and you'll be fine.. not too slow though I had a nasty stall which destroyed mine... aaand then my bud rebuilt her Good luck.
Old 09-27-2017, 06:32 PM
  #8124  
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Originally Posted by el_xero
Yes agreed. They are not needed, but if you insist on using them I'd suggest only engaging them when your low over the runway. I used them once on my maiden and I enabled them about 2 feet off the ground. They helped to pin me down on the roll out but even then it wasn't needed as my approach was already slow to begin with. Back then I had an O.S. 1.20 on there (lovely engine) but Much prefer the DLE20cc. You just practice those circuits and slow approaches and you'll be fine.. not too slow though I had a nasty stall which destroyed mine... aaand then my bud rebuilt her Good luck.
Agree with others that spoilers \ speed brakes are not needed on the Rev 70 (not even the Rev 59!). (the only plane I've seen flaps needed for landing are warbirds and jets) Could it be you're coming in too hot? I see LOTS of guys come in too high, or too fast, and then have to force their plane down onto the grass, or land WAY downfield when they don't need to. I DO use throttle curve (throttle down) on almost all of my planes, but especially need it on the DLE 20, which (sometimes) can take a while to come back down to idle. I usually try to approach as low as possible, starting with the last down-leg, well before turning 180 degrees for the final approach. That's also when I hit my idle-down switch. This way the DLE20 (or which ever) has plenty of time to idle-down, as I'm slowing losing altitude and slowing down, as I'm turning for final. (AND you don't have to worry about it on final.) Of course, exactly where you bring your throttle down to idle also depends on the head-wind (and, on some planes, you may want to land with some power, like warbirds or jets). But the Rev 70 is a floater - I cut to idle WELL in advance and use the final turn to bleed off energy.

Sometimes I get it so that I drop in pretty low on the far end, coasting in at less than a few feet, as the plane slowly loses energy and height. (If, at this point, I'm worried that the idle may be TOO low, and about to die, I may blip the throttle just a bit.) Hold that plane there, just above the ground, with your elevator, as it slowly comes down, and then let it touch itself down. Nice and easy. Aim for no bounces. I know some guys land a bit faster, I like to land slow, plus I think it looks cooler. It's funny how, at any club I've been too, guys are always evaluating your landings (whether they say it or not). It IS a good feeling to hear "nice landing!".

Another tip - I always try to land as directly as possible INTO the wind. If it's a cross wind, or a 3/4 wind (from the corner) I'll try to land at that angle, as directly into the wind as the field allows (I know some fields are wider than others, so not always possible). Also - aim to touch down as close to in front of you as possible. The closer the plane is the more visual feedback you have, and so the more control you have. One more - if you are still coming in fast - use a wider prop. (for a DLE 20 I like an APC 15x10 or 16x8). And \ or move the CG back more. And make sure your plane is balanced - both front-to-back AND side-to-side. This also helps the plane float in nice and stable (the trims you use are more for flying under power, but lose their effectiveness when you're flying slow).

btw - there's no rule (that I know of) about landing only once during your flying session. If you're shaky on landings - practice them! Land and takeoff multiple times during your session. I'm pretty good at landing, on all of of my planes, but I often do 5 or more landings per session, for fun and practice, shooting for perfection. Seems over the past few years I've become the main instructor at one of my fields, and all of these tips seem to help the trainees.

Last edited by microdon2; 09-27-2017 at 06:51 PM.
Old 09-27-2017, 07:17 PM
  #8125  
el_xero
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Originally Posted by microdon2
Agree with others that spoilers \ speed brakes are not needed on the Rev 70 (not even the Rev 59!). (the only plane I've seen flaps needed for landing are warbirds and jets) Could it be you're coming in too hot? I see LOTS of guys come in too high, or too fast, and then have to force their plane down onto the grass, or land WAY downfield when they don't need to. I DO use throttle curve (throttle down) on almost all of my planes, but especially need it on the DLE 20, which (sometimes) can take a while to come back down to idle. I usually try to approach as low as possible, starting with the last down-leg, well before turning 180 degrees for the final approach. That's also when I hit my idle-down switch. This way the DLE20 (or which ever) has plenty of time to idle-down, as I'm slowing losing altitude and slowing down, as I'm turning for final. (AND you don't have to worry about it on final.) Of course, exactly where you bring your throttle down to idle also depends on the head-wind (and, on some planes, you may want to land with some power, like warbirds or jets). But the Rev 70 is a floater - I cut to idle WELL in advance and use the final turn to bleed off energy.

Sometimes I get it so that I drop in pretty low on the far end, coasting in at less than a few feet, as the plane slowly loses energy and height. (If, at this point, I'm worried that the idle may be TOO low, and about to die, I may blip the throttle just a bit.) Hold that plane there, just above the ground, with your elevator, as it slowly comes down, and then let it touch itself down. Nice and easy. Aim for no bounces. I know some guys land a bit faster, I like to land slow, plus I think it looks cooler. It's funny how, at any club I've been too, guys are always evaluating your landings (whether they say it or not). It IS a good feeling to hear "nice landing!".

Another tip - I always try to land as directly as possible INTO the wind. If it's a cross wind, or a 3/4 wind (from the corner) I'll try to land at that angle, as directly into the wind as the field allows (I know some fields are wider than others, so not always possible). Also - aim to touch down as close to in front of you as possible. The closer the plane is the more visual feedback you have, and so the more control you have. One more - if you are still coming in fast - use a wider prop. (for a DLE 20 I like an APC 15x10 or 16x8). And \ or move the CG back more. And make sure your plane is balanced - both front-to-back AND side-to-side. This also helps the plane float in nice and stable (the trims you use are more for flying under power, but lose their effectiveness when you're flying slow).

btw - there's no rule (that I know of) about landing only once during your flying session. If you're shaky on landings - practice them! Land and takeoff multiple times during your session. I'm pretty good at landing, on all of of my planes, but I often do 5 or more landings per session, for fun and practice, shooting for perfection. Seems over the past few years I've become the main instructor at one of my fields, and all of these tips seem to help the trainees.
I'm not too clear on what you mean't by using a throttle curve though. The only time i've heard that term referenced is in relation to heli's when I was building mine, I understand it in that sense but not at all in relation to fixed wings. you're right though hardly any of my planes need help to slow down, it all comes down to the pilots approach even planes i though needed to land hot didn't need to once I got the hang of them..My rebuild revolver needed a higher speed landing because not only was the body a tad bit heavier than original but the wings were faaaaar heavier and the thing would just drop over the runway no coasting on that plane. We alway do loads of landing practice when we fly because our flying sessions are few and far between so we're always out of practice and there is no substitute for practice!

You're dead on about the DLE also i've had to go to idle on a couple circles where I loose altitude before my final down wind to turn final I actually have to listen for the engine to drop in revs too. I'm not sure if it has something to do with the mass of the prop used also. i hear if you use a much lighter wood prop it will slow down faster as opposed to using an APC.. I only ever used one wood xoar and apc 16*6's on mine. I was worried the smaller higher pitched 15'' props would be too much speed to bleed off on landing but I'll just have to try. I should have less issues now that I bought propper wings for her. Gotta remove the ballast from the original wings now though.. so back to the work bench for me!


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