Brand new ESC does not work
 

Hello everybody, I am new to this but today I have been very frustrated with getting my motor to spin again. A few hours ago, I powered the ESC with my lipo and it made 3 beeps. I could then spin the EDF for about 3 seconds for just stopping, and even though I was pushing the throttle stick up, no response. I tried unplugging and replugging the ESC and no beeps and no response from the transmitter, but, I could plug the ESC BEC cable into the receiver with a separate 6V battery pack (Lipo is not plugged in) and the motor beeps and beeps continuously while the motor twitches, and when I turn on the controller and connect it, it just beeps faster. I still don't get a response from the LIPO battery which is a concern, even though the LiPo reads 20v, Anyway, I was just wondering why the motor spun correctly at first but then died, and how I can fix this.

My ESC: Hobbywing Skywalker 80a UBEC
2860kv - 1850kv Outrunner Motor with 70mm fan duct
LiPo: 6s 4000mah 40c
Transmitter: Turnigy 9x 9ch
Receiver: IA8 (comes with 9x)

All of these products are brand new as I am working on new plane.

Have you tried reversing the throttle function?

Typically the first couple beeps just tell you it's on,, but after you should have heard 6 more beeps to let you know the 6s pack is engaged,, but it won't engage the power until the throttle is in the full off position

I agree with Scale, it sounds like the throttle was reversed which could have put the ESC into program mode. If that has happened you will need to reverse the throttle channel and reprogram back to the settings you want. The ESC instructions should be enough to get you through the programming using throttle stick positions at specific tones from the motor. It's a bit of a pain in the butt. It would be much easier to obtain a program card if one is available. Either way, the instructions that came with the ESC will be a good place to start.

If you don't have flying experience I would forget about EDFs for a while.

Training/trainer suggestions:
Advice for getting into flying RC airplanes, and how not to - The Ampeer

If a motor starts and stops after a while it usually is a battery issue.
6 cells in series (summing their voltages), no_load and you measure only 20volt?
No_load voltage of a single empty LiPo cell is 3.7volt, you'd be killing your battery.

It's the motor that does the beeping, not the ESC.
The controller is trying to tell you something in beep/morse code, using the motor as a poor loudspeaker.
Look up or google (make/type manual/instructions beep code) the code, several codes.

In case you have a Futaba transmitter, they need to have their throttle channel reversed.

The ESC is using the motor as a poor and cheap loudspeaker, no buzzer/speaker needed. In a loudspeaker a coil moves in/because of changes in magnetic field, same for motor. In a motor magnets move because of changes in magnetic field.

Which of those two velocity konstant Kv values? (in rpm/volt, Kv is a physical property, not a unit of measurement). Or is it just a typo?

Those two values would give two extremely different motors. Because both current and power drawn are proportional to Kv cubed. A factor of (2860/1850)³=3.6, i.e. 260% more current and power drawn.

Note that Kv says nothing about max.power and max.current capability. Like e.g. mass, Kv is not a rating, not a figure of merit.

Gelukkig Nieuw Jaar ;) en wees voorzichtig, Ron
• Without a watt-meter you're in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
• E-flight calculators • watt-meters • diy motor tips&tricks • Cumulus MFC •

2860 is most certainly the motor size,

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32796869883.html

I think the OP may have mistakenly added the "kv" to the first set of numbers, perhaps that is what Ron was asking about ?

Looking at the motor that scale linked I believe the 2860 is the motor's physical size, 28 MM X 60 MM, and the 1850 KV indicates 1850 RPM per volt , the velocity constant Ron mentioned.

I would agree with that assessment and add that a battery with a 40C discharge may be a bit on the light side.

Duh, that makes waaayyyy too much sense.
I was too fast on the trigger there.
Thanks for correcting me.

Yes, I interpreted it as two Kv numbers, I even calculated the star versus delta configuration numbers, instead of a size number and a Kv value.

All water under the bridge it seems, TS has not been active here since his OP.

Vriendelijke groeten ;) en wees voorzichtig, Ron
• Without a watt-meter you're in the dark ... until something starts to glow •
• E-flight calculators • watt-meters • diy motor tips&tricks • Cumulus MFC •