RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Well, got to fly mine today.... didn't get too wild, but it flew very nice. Barly had to give it any trim. Final weight is just under 11 pounds. I used an os 1.60, and it has more then plenty of power. I also used a perry pump, and mounted the tank on the cg.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

I flew mine six flights over Easter. I did not notice much of a trim problem when pulling up. Can't say how much for sure, but I don't recall needing very much rudder in an upline. I'm sure you've already checked the other obvious things, like elevator differential and rudder offset, etc....

Richard

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Richard, Thanks for the input. I have checked the obvious things, but I can't put my finger on what is causing this. I got a PM from Chip Hyde, and he said that I should mix the rudder with the throttle to correct it instead of adding more right thrust. I am going to mess with that the next time I take it out.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Richard, and any other Moki 1.80 users,
I am working on installing my Moki 1.80. I have been looking at your photos which have been pretty helpful so far. I am wondering why you didnt use the existing upper holes on the firewall and only drill two new holes on the lower part of the firewall. Is there a reason. If I drill 4 new holes 1/8" above and below the existing holes I am afraid the mounts and motor will sit too high on the firewall.

Also, I noticed that each motor mount is not symmetrical. I am assuming that the side with the larger edge should go on the bottom?? Please let me know.

Thanks,
T

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

I wanted to keep the thrust line in the same location, which is why I drilled 4 new holes. If you reuse the top two holes and drill two new ones on the bottom, the thrust line will be lower than designed. Drill the holes exactly like I show in the picture and it will NOT sit too high on the firewall. Also, make sure you do not drill too high - the new holes should touch the old holes. If you have too much space between the holes the motor mount will be too far apart.

Correct - the larger part goes on the bottom.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Yea, what he said..:D

Going Vert - I noticed the adjusting screw on your pump seems to be way out (ie. lower pressure). Is this the way it came, or is it the result of tuning, etc... Mine is turned in from the factory setting, but then I had to turn the mixture dial on the carb a little leaner to get good midrange. The midrange is still not perfect, but transition is great. I'm thinking of trying a bypass setup where you put a T near the carb and another near the tank to bleed the pump pressure back to the tank. The the fuel is not forced into the carb, but is available on demand. I'm sure I would have to go back to the factory mixture setting. I'm curious to see if this would suit the Moki carb better than force feeding. BTW - this idea comes from Conley Precisions website, they sell a pump/bypass system for nitro cars because some carb don't respond well to pressurized fuel supplies.

Richard

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Going vert and RWLewis,
Thanks for the pics and explanation. I may have some other questions as I continue building.


T

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Richard - the screw came that way. I've never run a Moki / Perry setup, so I'll probably have some questions for you.

Why did you increase the pressure? Why not lower the pressure - that way you wouldn't have to run the double "T"s. Is the increased pressure a performance issue?

Drew

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Guys - are you running the CG 3.5" back from the root or tip? The manual says tip, but I remember reading in a threat it's the root.

I'm running this Fromeco battery / regulator / fail safe switch combo - it's great. I'll take pics of the setup tomorrow - just finished installing everything - minus battery.

Thanks,
Drew

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

It is at the tip, not the root... good luck

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

I finished mounting the motor mounts on the fire wall. Now I am ready to mark the motor and drill the holes in the mounts. The manual says to place the motor where the prop washer will stick out of the cowl by about 1/8". So I guess that means that you need to have the cowl pretty much in place before you can drill the holes in the motor mounts.

If the cowl is guiding the engine placement, how do you know how far back to mount the cowl? Seems kind of like a catch 22. Do you mount it right before the cut out in the fuse for the landing gear? Help!

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

I just looked at rwlewis's pics and mounted in the same spot he mounted the motor. I'm going to fine tune the CG w/ the battery later. If you mount the motor where richard and I mounted it, the cowl fits perfect.

The BCM muffler is a very tight fit. I need to file down the motor mount to squeze the muffler in there. Trial fit your muffler on the motor and the motor on the mount to see what I'm talking about.

Drew

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

What spinner type & size are you running on that Moki?

Thx,
Drew

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Drew - I increased the pressure when I first got the Moki, because I thought I was starving it for fuel. The way tell if you need more pressure is to make sure you can richen the main needle to a slobbering rich setting running wide open. If you open main needle and it does not richen up then you know the pump is not giving enough fuel and you need to increase the pressure (and therefore volume through a fixed orifice). This seemed to be the case with mine, so I turned in the screw and it got better. Then you can lean the needle to the running point. Generally, if you follow the commisioning procedure in the Conley instructions this is how they say to do it. I have not actually tried the bypass system, so I'm not sure how it would work.

The spinner I have is 2-3/4, but it is too small. You really need a 2-7/8 or 3" as described in the manual. It's what I had and couldn't afford the correct one.

Terminator_a - if you mount the motor so that the drive washer is 6" from the firewall, you wil have about 1/2" overlap of the cowl onto the fuse, plenty for attaching the cowl. Also, like Drew said, at that location, the Bisson muffler interferes with the mount at the rear and you will need to do a little grinding on the mount.

Richard

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

a previous post was asking what the little platic "L" things were for.. They are for mounting your aileron servos on their sides if you purchased the extreme cap 232 from rcsuperstore.. It appears that they are the same plane exept for how the ailerons servos are mounted, and of course covering scheme. From what I've seen and read I'm 99 % positive its the same bird.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

That would be a dissapointment. I thought Chip designed and built this plane from the ground up?

Anyway - I am so happy w/ the quality of this plane. I would not change anything about the design or construction - it's all A+.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

FYI....I exchanged e-mails with Chip a while back with regards to the Cap-x and the EAA Cap. He said the EAA Caps do not share the same geometry with the Cap-X (incidences, stab location, surface sizes, etc...) and will not fly the same. He indicated there were 73 copies made out of the same factory and they were apparently not intended to be sold in the US and they will never be produced again...

Richard

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Did you guys with the Moki's have to cut a hole in the top of the cowl for the needle valve? I hate to do it but it looks like it is hitting the top of the cowl.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Yes...see picture

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

For mounting the engine, mount it as far forward as possible. With my os 160, I got it at the end of the rails, and still had plenty of cowl to attach it. Not sure with the moki.... I would just clamp the motor on and dry fit the cowl to make sure you have enough room. Just remember, the farther forward you get the motor, the less nose weight you'll need. I only had to add about 2 ounces of lead to the nose of mine to get it to balance.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

OK Thanks. Good pic and nice spinner too.


T

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Ok guys ordered mine today and was really thinking of puttin this Saito 180 on it so i would love to here how one flys with one.

Thanks
Eddy

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

If you go with the Saito make sure to increase the tank size a few OZs.

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

There is no need to increase the tank size. Yes, it's true that the Saito will use more fuel than a Moki or maybe even an OS, but it just means you shave one or two minutes off your flying time...whooop-dee-do..

RE: Chip Hyde's Cap-X - Building & Flying
 

Another Cap-X Maidens ! Moveing the elevator servos under the canopy
kept me from adding weight to the nose!! Pull-Pull works great. All up
weight 10 lbs 14 oz.

Someone mention that the plane pulls hard to left on uplines, so does
mine. It also skids to left in level flight. Put right trim in the rudder , only
help some. I think I will be increasing the right thrust to see if
this will correct the problem.

The OS-160 is plenty powerful with this weight. Have a problem
with my pump (pressure hose broke) so I haven't done much triming
yet. It seems to have lots of potential.

Keep the flight reports coming.

Stick2K