U Stick 40 question
 

Just maidened my Ultra Stick this weekend. Oh Man!! I love this plane!! I put an O.S. 70 in it and worked out all the weight/CG issues. It flies like a dream. Lots of power. I have a 13 X6 prop on it and not sure if this is the size that will work best on it. I had started out with a 12 X 8 but wanted to slow it down some. A 14" seems like it would be too tall and hit the grass. Any suggestions?

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

:)Use one size bigger tires. Try to get that 14x4W APC prop on it. You'll like the performance. It's worth it to go with the bigger prop.
Thanks,
Barry

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

I just picked up an ultra stick 40 today and am already about 3/4 the way done. Running a Saito 72. I chose not to use the the quad flaps as I would rarely use them. I have bigger tires, 3 1/4" that should help out grass landings and any prop clearance problems, I am going with a 13x4.

So the plane flys well? Is it stable at slower speeds or does it like to rock a lot.? Was the extra weight of the bigger engine worth it, however, I think my saito 72 is quite a bit ligher than your OS four storke.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

I have one with a Saito .56 and quad flaps. It's a blast to fly and very stable at slow speed.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

It seems to be plenty nose heavy, I havent completely finsihed. I think I am going to ditch the heavy metal motor mount it came with and pick up the ligher nylon ones.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Using the 70 Surpass, mine was nose heavy even with lighter GRP mounts. I had to put the battery behind the wing.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Mine is a hovering machine with a 46FX and an APC 12.25x3.75. Weighs 5 lbs dry.

If anyone wants to buy mine, it's in mint condition (Milwaukee, Wisconsin area only). All the recommended mods are done to it. I have too many planes. :)

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Jayselle, Mine seems to be very stable. The O.S. is heavier and I have a 13 x 6 prop on it. I love the 4 stroke 70 on it. Tons of power but managable. I haven't moved the battery aft yet so I put some weight under the tail and had to put some on the outboard of the left wing to balance it. Also, I got rid of the metal motor mount and put on a Dave Brown composite. Good luck with yours. I'm having a blast with mine.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

I made a hatch in my tail and put the battery back there. Perfect balance. I also added the glass filled Dave Brown engine mount. The Harry Higley 0.8 alum ounce prop nut spinner will take an ounce off the nose as well. All sorts of ways to move the CG back.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Hey Joe, for the hatch you made for the battery, is that on the underside of the tail? Any pictures of it that you could post?

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

The Dave Brown engine mounts seem to be the lightest ones around. They are designed to break before the firewall will break too....

Ernie

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

I have pic's of the final installed hatch but not the uncovered one. You can see the tie wraps buldging out through the Ultracoat. Just cut a square hole big enough for the battery (and a little frame around the hole). Frame around the hole with balsa. Put 4 holes in the hatch for tie wraps then treat it with thin CA to harden the hatch. Glue a little piece of foam to the inside hatch. Put the battery inside, fish the tie wraps around the battery and pull them tight. The battery will wedge itself agains the inside framing and pull the hatch tight. Then cover it with Ultra coat. I would solder the battery extension instead of using a connector. I used a connector but I would solder it if I did it again.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Thanks for the info Joe. I'll have to think about I want to do the set up.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

CeeGee, here's the hatch I made. The battery attaches to a raised platform on the other side, and the whole assembly is easily and quickly removeable.

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Thanks Steve. That looks clean and simple. I might move the servos back there. Not sure at this point which way I'll end up modifying it. Here's a couple of pictures of my U. Stick with an O.S. 70

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

>>> CeeGee, here's the hatch I made. The battery attaches to a raised platform on the other side, and the whole assembly is easily and quickly removeable

You get an A+ for making your battery removable. My planes don't usually outlast the battery though, so I just wrapped the battery with a layer of clear packaging tape, dribbled some epoxy down into the left side of the fuse, and slid the battery pack down into it, all the way to the former.

Now watch this battery be the only one I have ever had that goes bad!

I saw CeeGee's plane fly yesterday with the OS 70. It is very light and powerful, a real performer! Good looking too with the new red color scheme!

Ernie

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

<<...The only one I have ever had that goes bad...>>

I found out long ago that, as far as my stuff is concerned, Murphy thrives in an R/C environment. The odds that major component replacement/adjustment will be necessary is inversely proportional to how much time you spent making the model user-friendly, and how much you like it.

For instance, while this sort of hatch is easy to do, it is not QUICK to do. I spent an entire afternoon getting it just right. Naturally, I wasn't too enthralled with the characteristics of the Ultra Stick, and it now hangs unused and gutted in my spare room. No condemnation of the model; it simply doesn't trip my trigger.

But it sure has a nice battery-access hatch...:eek:

RE: U Stick 40 question
 

Hi Steve,

What plane(s) have you moved on to that the flight characteristics were more to your liking?

Just curious,

Ernie