RE: Help Desk
 

Yes I did tear the carb, and found nothing at least that I could see, as for the line in question with the plug, I normally take the plug out to fill, the tank has a separate Easy Fueler Valve, mounted with the yellow bracket in picture. the thing is it runs great from mid TX throttle to WOT, but wont run lower past the mid throttle to Idle. It ran about 3 full tanks, till it ran out fuel. There must be some adjustment for lower speed and Idle??? And yes I think your right about the tank needing a vent line to prevent a vacuum, there is nothing on the muffler to attache this line, the hole has been replace with a screw. I have not tried since the weekend, trying to figure out what I can adjust or look into.
Again Thanks for your help, If you think of anything else, I would appreciate any additional Info.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

One other thing, When you had the pump apart, did you lube the diaphragm? Sometimes they dry out, and It could just possibly be that you are not getting sufficient movement to pump at low speed. a very light film of petroleum jelly might do the trick. You might want to gently rub it into the material.

RE: Help Desk
 

No I did not lube the diaphragm, it did not look too bad but since I never had one of those how do I know, it may be a good idea if I did lube it, I will try this soon, the next rainy day.
Thanks
roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I'm just thinking, the diaphragm may have become dry and non-flexible, and may not be providing fuel pressure at low RPM.

RE: Help Desk
 

That make sense I will have to take another look and like you said rub some petroleum jelly should not hurt to do that.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

Just don't gob it on, a little goes a long way. If the diaphragm is not, "seeing" the pressure pulse signal at low RPM, that could be your problem.

Bill

RE: Help Desk
 

Thanks
I was at the club today and mentioned what you said and they agreed with what you said, and I think I know what you mean about not globing it, I will use just a film and rub it on the diaphragm, only a few at the club remembers this motor, but never had this kind of problem, since there motors were never stored for some period of time, they never encountered this problem.
and so far Your the only one with some experienced answers to my questions. I tried OS support but never really got the problem solved other than they sent me a manual in PDF format, that helped only when the motor is new and how to set it up.
but this motor I have was running good at one time since the high speed needle adjustment is only 1 1/2 turn out , if the motor was not broken in or used very little it in MOP that it would be more than 1 1/2 turn. ???? any way I will try this and keep you posted on the results

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

1 1/2 turns out sounds kind of lean, but you never really know. I have seen identical engines require vastly different needle settings. You aare using new fuel tubing are you not? Probably should have asked that in the first post.

Bill

RE: Help Desk
 

I thought that too! 1 1/2 turn, but it works real good at that setting and oil out of the muffler is the right color, motor also no too hot. and no all the lines are original and snug fits and silicon through the firewall, the look like there are in good shape, is there any reason you know that I should replace them? if so I will.

Thanks
roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I guess my response was lost in the crash, so here goes again. I was wondering if your fuel lines had become brittle... One other thing. Once when I installed the fuel tubing on a tank, the edge of one of the brass tubes shaved a sliver of silicone from the inside of the line. This sliver would intermittently move and block the line to the carb (it was still attached to the tubing, but the end of the sliver was in the supply stream) I nearly went nuts trying to find that one.

RE: Help Desk
 

Yes yours and mine response got lost, I had pictures of cats instead LOL. I see what you mean by the line problems, I may have to a number on this one and go over everything from one end to the other, and might as well replace all the lines.
Thanks for the info. I will post the results,

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I think that you are pretty close to finding the fix.

Bill

RE: Help Desk
 

I just bought new fuel lines and If all goes well? there is a few days of rain ahead here, and might get a chance to work at it.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

How did it work?

RE: Help Desk
 

Stickbuilder

Well I took it all apart (pump, carb, tank, and replaced all fuel lines,)also gave the pump diaphragm,some petroleum jelly massage, although it look good, now I was going to test it today but just as I got there it started to rain and hail, so much for that, I still have the plane in the van waiting for the rain to stop so I can take it inside.
Now I'll have to wait till I can get on it again, I should be able to test it this week some time after work.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I hope all turns out well for you.

Bill, AMA 4720

RE: Help Desk
 

I went out today to test, got it all ready to start, when trying to start with the electric starter, gas was coming out from somewhere between the pump and the firewall so took all the gas out and started to take the motor out when the rain came down, so much for today. I will try again in the next few days, this time I will mount it on a stand and try other few things I did not do in the past.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I wish that you lived a little closer. (we could use the rain):)

RE: Help Desk
 

Stickbuilder:

Were sure getting our share in the last week or so. I'll see what I can do to send it your way for a while[>:]

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

Well, we got our share of the rain. Thursday early morning, we got a real frog strangler. How are you coming with the pump/engine?

RE: Help Desk
 

That's good! tried to figure out how to turn the rain around your way! too complicated, so I won't have to now.
I am now building a test stand with tank throttle control etc, so I can set it on (motor) and can get at all the lines and needles settings, just about finish would of been but the battery powered drill lost power drilling this solid oak stock used for the engine stand, can't win I've been using this drill for a while I guess it needs a rest, and why not! we had nice weather in the last couple of days and have been flying. but I promise I will get at it when more free time is available.:eek:

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

Stickbuilder.

Finaly I finish the test stand and took the motor out and installed it on the stand, however still did not get a chance to try it, that's the next step, I have removed the tank out again and took it all apart, I may have to replace it now because I damaged the interior stopper trying to take it out! no big deal! I found out it was a 12 oz tank though, anyway here is some pictures take from the motor out and on the test stand, some pics are a bit blurred camera can't take good close up.
Thanks for your help.

roltech

RE: Help Desk
 

I have a problem and hoping a solution.
On my plane having usual front landing gear strut with coil.That landing gear have a control horn coupling with rudder.That control horn having a set screw to stick it to strut to turn it accordingly by servo.My problem is on every landing that setscrew couldnt keep lock and strut slips to turn itself.No setscrew loosing but slipping by force.
How can I overcome that?
The setscrew allen head got loosened and I couldnt remove it now also.Any suggestion to be able to remove it to renew the assembly?

RE: Help Desk
 

You will probably have to drill the setscrew out and remove the horn. When you get the new control horn, put it in place, with the set screw out, mark the wire of the nose gear. grind (or file) a small flat on the wire. when you install the set screw, it will go into the flat that you ground, and enable you to tighten the screw so that the wire will not turn. You should also do this on the landing gear where the wheel collars go. This is considered pretty basic stuff for those who have been doing this for a while. Plans, and instructions used to suggest this. I suppose that when ARF's started coming along, these ideas were lost in the shuffle.

If the setscrew is a bolt type, you can probably grip it with a pair of pliers and remove it.

Bill, AMA 4720

RE: Help Desk
 

Thank you StickBuilder.I already could remove that setscrew.I will do that flat surface thing.