Stickbuilder

It has been suggested that we old timers have a lot of experience to share with the newer modellers out there. I am willing to try to answer any question that comes my way. Perhaps the moderator of this site will allow this to operate in here. If I can't honestly tell you how to solve a problem, I will say so. I do not claim to be an expert, but I do have over 50 years of model airplane experience. I am retired, so I do have some time available to devote to this. I am sure that there are others with tons of experience, who will be glad to join in. I would welcome any input. Lets Go. If you have a better suggestion, we need to hear it. I'm going to try to make amends for my curmudgeonly ways of the past

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Stickbuilder,

If this works outs fairly well, I'll see about placing it as a sticky at the top of this forum

Stickbuilder

Thanks Jesse, er Bill [8D] I think it can be a good item, if all will use it as intended. I changed my handle from BalsaBandit. Maybe the old alter ego is gone for good New leaf turned over here.

roltech

I'm all for it, "way to go". I know I will have some questions, I'm going to wright them down and will get back to this post.

roltech

igotfish2

im still in mine...[:@]so its all yours...[sm=bananahead.gif]

Hellcat1st

I am currentl Building my third wing for a sig LT 40 The first on I built acoording to bluprints the second I build to include flaps i used the stock ailerons but cut them so the first 12 inches from fuse out are flaps I found out that now to roll it is much more dificcult on this wing I plan on using 2 1/2 or 3 inch stock for ailerons and flaps 9 the stock ones are 1 1/2 inches) I know it will rol faster but my worry is over stressing the wing any thoughts on this ( oh I will be using the new JR sport servos with 125 inch once torque)

Stickbuilder

I think that the servox on this bird are overkill, but just make sure that you set your end points, so that your servos will not allow the ailerons to over travel and damage the aileron or wing. You did not mention what engine that you are flying with either, so I would (if you are overpowered) learn to practice throttle management. Is this an ARF, or a kit? Have you had the covering off the wing? If you did, are there shear webs between the top and bottom spar? If there are shear webs, I wouldn't worry too much about wing failure, but if there were no shear webbing, you may indeed wish to curtail your more, "Hairy" manuvers. I have built (kits) several of the Kadet series and have made many modifications (see Pic) including removal of dihedral, addition of full span ailerons and grossly overpowering (Senorita with Webra .32 speed GT on 25% nitro) all with good results. As I mentioned in the first part, I would worry more about servo overtravel ripping the aileron horn out of the surface.

Stickbuilder

Hot dog Senorita

Stickbuilder

I just went back and re read your post. I see that you have stick built your wing (again) I have to wonder what caused the failure of the first one/s? Did you use spruce for the top and bottom main spars or did you use balsa? How many bays did you shear web? Did you use balsa or spruce for the sub spars? The Sig flat bottom Kadet wing series uses two main spar and two sub spar construction techniques. On the main spars, I normally select spruce for the spars, and 3/32 balsa for the shear webbing. I normally run the shear web the full apan (plans call for about 5 or 6 bays) (if I remember correctly) I have tried adding shear web to the sub spars, but I didn't feel that I gained enough strength to overcome the weight added.

I fly the Senorita pretty aggressively, and have never had a failure with the airframe. This model is over 10 years old and has over 500 flights to date. It flies in local fun flys, and is always a force to recon with. The wing is still rubber banded on, and the only mod to the fuselage is that the perimeter frame is 1/4 spruce instead of balsa. Did the same thing with a Sr. Kadet once, and it flew well with a Saito .91 The flight envelope was awesome to behold. (wings bolted on (not completely stupid)) It was sold several years ago, and as far as I know is still flying.

If you did not shear web the mains, I think that it would be worth removing the covering (from the bottom) and adding the shear webs.

Bill

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Boy, I haven't been called Jesse in a long time. I noticed that you had changed your name but I will not say how I noticed

As I mentioned, 4 of the mods, including myself are right in the middle of doing a very comprehensive FAQ for beginners so if you all get together and make this thread a good FAQ, I'll talk to Plane Insane or RCAdmin about making it a sticky. It takes one of them to approve something like that.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

This is a good idea. Might get pretty crowded after a while, but anything worthwhile is worth plowing through...

NJAIRSTRIKE

My Feedback: (2)

Maybe you guys should have a "SUB-THREAD" within the "THREAD" to help simplify things. This way people who may have a simular question can find it quicker.

Stickbuilder

If you know how to make that happen, by all means, be my guest.

How'm I doin Steve?

Hellcat1st

The first 2 wings did not fail I am just trying to make the perfect plane for my house I live on 3 acres and dont like to fly over my neighbos property My bigger planes just arnt feasible to fly at home so most of my stick time is with my Lt-40 It is bult from a Kit ( I beleive thesse to be stronger It is converted to bolt on wings) and a tail dragger The fire wall has ben rienforced and I wligh with a tower hobbies 75 2 strock with a 14 X 6 apc prop. I am trying to get the shortest take off and landings as possible I would go to a 3d plane but am afraid in wouldnot survive long I land on pretty rough ground I have to run 5 inch mains to run over the uneven terrain And the wings are fully webbed

Stickbuilder

Fly it like you stole it. I don't think you have anything to worry about Other than what I said about setting the end points so you don't overtravel your servos and tear the horns out of the ailerons, or force the hinges out.

Stickbuilder

Bill (alias Jesse)
Do me a favor, and shut down the post on Check this out Hangar 9 ARF's It is mine, and I see nothing but problems developing from it. Lotsa flamin going on.

Billy th' kid

Hellcat1st

Thanks for yopu thiughts and quick responce

roltech

Here we go. I purchase a RC plane with some parts missing, I did get the instruction manual but it does not give dimensions of some parts. This plane is a bi plane called Wots.Wots and designed by Chris Foss. I have most of the plane together but I need the dimensions of the interplane struts "the struts between the two wings", I have a picture and the arrows is the dimension I need, I have made some but there still not right as when installed they pull on one side or the other the ailerons down or up since they are also inter connected , I know I will get it close to what I think they should be, but they may not be as the originals and may not fly as good as it should.
Hope you can help

roltech

Stickbuilder

I would think that the interplane struts (if the dimension is equal on both sides, and you allowed them to maintain the same positive stagger) (relationship of top to bottom wing) should not affect the aileron. It sounds as if you are forcing the wings to pull, distorting the wing and inducing a warp of some type. Try measuring from the top of the lower wing saddle (fuselage) to the top of the cabane saddle, and see how close this measurment is to the length of your interplane struts that you made. From the picture that you posted it appears that the top wing is flat, and the bottom wing has a slight dihedral, so the above statement may not be true.

Are the measurments the same for both sides? It may be due to the perspective of the photo, but I wonder... Check the dimensions for both sides. They should be equal, and the struts are to maintain dimension, not alter the dimension and cause the wing panel to move. Hope this helps.

Stickbuilder

I have been thinking about what you said about pulling the ailerons. Once you have the dimension sorrect, and if you are only using 2 servos with tie bars controlling the upper ailerons, you may actually have to adjust the length of the tie bars. measure everything, and as long as the wings have the correct incidence throughout the span, then adjust the lindages to zero the top wing ailerons, and you should be okay.

da Rock

roltech,
You need two struts right?
There is a very simple way to find the right length for them. You need the measurement from the hole in the bottom "horn" to the top "horn". It will be the same for both sides, but your cabanes are holding the wings so that they're not parallel so the way the plane sits in your enclosed photo, you get different measurements when you measure for the right interplane versus the left interplane.

OK, you've actually got another slight problem. Your cabane struts aren't holding the wings parallel, but my suggestions are going to help solve that while we're working out your measurement.

With the airplane rigged like it is in the picture, take some scrap anything and cut it to fit where you want one of the interplanes to go. Take a pen or pencil and stick it through the attachment holes top and bottom, as if you were trying to mark where to drill attachment holes in that interplane strut. Now take that scrap over to the other side and mark those holes. The bottom marks should overwrite each other and the top marks should be one above the other. Halfway between those top two marks is where you'd drill the top holes if you ignored the fact that your cabane struts aren't "square".

You need to sand down one of your cabane saddles (the "tall" one) so that the two wings are parallel. You need to do that first. The plan I just suggested to you for measuring to find the average distance for the interplane struts will help you when you're sanding down the tall cabane saddle.

Once you get the cabane struts equal, use some more scrap and verify the distances for the interplane struts. They should be equal now.

You've got a sharp looking biplane there. It oughta be fun to fly.

da Rock

BTW, about your interconnected ailerons..........
Disconnect them until you have the two wings parallel with "square" cabanes, and have the interplane struts equal and attached. Then adjust the connecting rods.

da Rock

Stickbuilder,
Can I make another suggestion.
By starting a single thread that's starting to collect varying subjects, you've basically started a new forum. There is a problem with that, in that different subjects are now going to be buried within a single thread. There isn't going to be any way that anyone will know what the different subjects are, nor where within the "Help Desk" thread any subject is. And the answers are going to wind up overlapping.

This "Help Desk" thread is developing into a mess.

If you think about it, the BEGINNERS forum works out with some order and neatness doesn't it? Each thread topic covers the problem being discussed. It's easy to look at the topic and know what's in the thread. And the ARF-RTF forum is neat and when there's a question in there, it's got it's own title and it's neat and orderly and easy to find what you're looking for.

Wouldn't you think that the forums are already doing a HELP DESK function and that you'd better help people by doing what everyone has done all along and just answer the questions under their own subject threads? You think maybe it'd be a good idea to let the help desk thread fade away and use the forums the way they were intended?

da Rock

Hey, bubbagates, can I make a suggestion? If you make one thread a sticky that's going to collect a mishmash of topics hidden within it, you're going to cut the legs out from under the orderly way a forum works. Forums are way easier to surf when each topic or question or subject has it's own thread and title. Right now, this forum has a ton of individual threads asking for help about specific topics. What'd it be like if none of them had titles and were all just one post after another in one thread?

Stickbuilder

You just might be right.