RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

WELL IM AN IDIOT THE SERVOS FOR THE SPECTRUM DO NOT HAVE METAL GEARS AND I USED THREADLOCK SO TO MAKE A LONG STORY SHORT I ORDERED NEW GEAR SETS FOR 3 SERVOS. THEY LOOKED METAL. I USED EXTRA SERVOS TO FINISH THE FLAPS

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Go with the YS 63. Fits in the mount perfect, has more power than the OS and has a pressurized fuel system. No need for a vent line.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Geez Tim. That's the sort of thing I'd do....

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Has anyone bought/installed the Robart brakes? Look nice on their site, but unfortunately I have the plastic hubs so don't fit my wheels. If feedback is good, I could be swayed to lash out:D

Cam

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

well each gear set was 6 bucks so no big deal! what is in threadlocker that weakens plastic???

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

I was looking over the Tower site for engine power. I see the 70-II is no longer. I swear it was there the other day. However!!! A new gem is listed as a replacement. The OS 81 FS "A" model. Is in stock. So who wants to be a TEST uhhh SUBJECT??

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Hi Timothy.

I remember from building a Tamiya Audi Quatro probably twenty-five years ago, a few days after I built it the chassis and transmission were just cracking and falling apart. Turned out it was the Loc-Tite that was doing something to the plastic. Now, where there is a chance threadlocker will come into contact with the plastic, most instructions tell you to use "plastic-compatible" threadlocker.

Sorry about your servo gears. If you can't tell whether the gears are plastic or metal, one cue would be the type of screw that holds on the servo arm--if it's a screw with a machine thread, it probably goes into a metal gear and should have threadlocker. If the screw is a self-tapper, it probably goes into plastic and there will be no need for threadlocker.

Well, live and learn I guess. :eek:

Tim

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

And if they're "Karbonite" - you're on your own buddy! (See threads elsewhere) HS 645MG's are hard to beat if you're a Hitec user, IMHO.

If Loctite-ing metal gear servos, get a low-grip formula. Some grades are like superglue and almost impossible to undo (go on, ask me how I know....[:@])

Cam

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

I use a drip of rc56 canopy glue to lock them in. They stay put and are easy to get out of you need to.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

I spoke to Robart yesterday. I was told by the first of the year they will be coming out with new braking system for 2 - 4 in wheel with plasic hubs. No idea on price. I may wait till the first of the year.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Sgoen & Camdison,

I have ordered the 4 inch al. 10 spoke Al. wheels from Robart, with the brake kit. The plastic wheels and the new braking system will not be vey much less expensive than the existing one. The only thing now is that the actual braking system is destined to the aluminium wheel hub and you must spend 100+$ for the wheels vs +/- 20$. The difference is that you get wheels that will last a life time and a better rolling vs the plastic wheels. I know I have 3.5inch plastic wheels on a P51-150 and after 20 landings you have to change the wheels, the rubber and the plastic bushing on the wheel get worned off from an 18 lbs plane. I would invest the difference of 80-90$ to obtain the al. wheels now and have peace of mind. The kit also come with an electronic regulating valve and a disc brake system as showm on their site.

There is no way out with money pay now or pay later. Sometimes buying the best is the cheapest solution instead of buying both!

The only problem is that there is no matching al. wheels for the 4 inch 10 spoke al. wheels. You must use a Sullivan 2.75 or a 2.75 ultralite H9 wheel. and paint the hub with al. color paint.

Robart does not have the stock now and should be available in the coming weeks according to Doug @ Robart.

Normand

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Sgoen,

I have been waiting for more than a year for those brakes to come out from Robart. They bought Compact Uni-brake quite a while ago (of course right when I wanted a set!) and haven't released them yet. I would like to install them on my P-61 mains. Hopefully you are right about the release date.

Russ

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

On page 31 #2, the fill valve mount pieces. Can someone tell me where I can find them or are the scrap that I have to make up?

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Just make them up from scrap like it says. Or, you don't need them if you just want to run the fill tube out the bottom of the cowl.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

sgoen,

those air fill valve mount pieces were inadvertantly left out of the kit, but we found this out ahead of time so they were supposed to be included with an addendum and smaller cables for the pull/pull nose steering. As those plywood pieces for the air fill valve mount were not included with the rest of the plywood parts, they should have been in a separate bag on top of all the other parts. If you don't mind, look around and see if you can find them.

If you can't find the air fill valve mount pieces, you could contact Product Support and they should be able to send them to you. If you don't want to wait, you could fashion them yourself from any scrap plywood you may have at home.

Let me know what you find.

Tim

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

i feel like such an idiot! I pride myself on knowledge and I screw up the servos. I had one spare set of gears and one untouched servo so the inner flaps are done! NO LOCKER the other servos work fine i just need to replace the spur gear.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Good news re the brakes for plastic wheels - thanks for the info. I never even knew about the aluminium wheels when I got my plastic ones, but seems a shame to waste them. I've got the same on my P47 (13 lbs) with foam inserts, but I fitted them with brass tube bushings, and this seems to work well and roll smoother. Will do the same with these ones, and just spray the hubs metallic on all 3 wheels.

Which reminds me, how do you plan to activate the brakes? I originally thought mixed to idle throttle, but that would prevent running up the engines before takeoff. Use a separate switch? Are the on/off or proportional?

How about some more photos guys - they're keeping me going until my kit turns up..:)

Cam

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Well may as well contributing! The covering job on the TF B25 is of high quality however I decided to remove the Monokote and fiberglass the plane with 3/4 oz cloth using West system epoxy. The model of my choice went to the J straffer with the eight nose 50 calibers, the new nose style need to be made also I used a template from a side and top view. The plug will be carved of styrene then fiberglassed. At this point I have the nose rought out, once the part finished it will include functionnal scale hatches so the switches and air fill valve can be hiden,it will also offer an easy battery access. I posted some pictures of the progress and will add more as the project advance.
The tip about the front nose strut pin is great, thank you!
Bruno

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

I found them in the decals along with the cable.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

thats awesome add a cannon

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Timothy Thompson,

I've sent you a Private Message a few days ago. Did you get it?

Flavio

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

flav i did not whats up. (i didnt get my live spider yet) heres more pics. i cut the nose glass because thats what the real mitchell did the panels coulf be taken off. ill use 090 bolts for mine. Now im working on the forward gun. 9.6lbs so far rx batt and elev rudd and inner flaps working. Not too bad. we have snow

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Whew.... just finished going through all 25 pages of this thread. New to this board. Still awaiting delivery but have begun collecting necessary items for when the fun arrives. My thanks to Tim (Krproton) for his input and to all the others that have contributed. There are always short comings with any new item but thankfully there are people who are willing to pass along their experiences. Some great advise here. Wheel alternatives, Prop sizes, Tank pressure, door hinges.etc. All the important info usually left out in the instruction booklet. Probably because they want you to fail so they can sell you a new plane or parts. So thanks again. Now at least I'll not have to scratch my head when deciding what size prop to buy..DJR..

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Hi, Tim!

Ok! I'll promiss I'll try to find one for you... :) No complains, huh? Do you like hairy or bald ones?

Nice job you're doing on the B25, pal.

My PM was about the Staggerwing... The Fuji 32EI I had for it didn't fit and I'm wondering if a Zenoah 26 EI would give enough power or make the flight tense like those action movies... :)

I sent it private because of the B25 topic here... I was scared to be flamed off. :)

Can you give me some advice?

Flavio

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Nacelle Frame:

Hello Tim,

I was looking at your nacelle hardwood assembly and thought of giving you or others a tip on those. I suggest to glass them with Z-poxy all over including the ring and tabs to protect them from dirt and for those glow powered, the oil that get sprayed all over the nacelle. Specially those using the saito 82, that get both the crankcase and the muffler oil spraying all over the nacelle and the fuselage. In my case i noticed that the amount of oil accumulating on the fuselage and the nacelle (in the cold does'nt drip off) made the aircraft tail heavy!!! need to clean it off each flights.

All the oil get sprayed inside and around the nacelle and may contaminate the cowl ring, tabs and the wood frame in the nacelle. The dirt gets sprayed on the t/o roll and landing roll as well. It may be a good idea to protect it and add a dope paint over it, for example; grey for the ring & tabs and for the wood frame, black or zinchromate.

Just a tought.

Normand

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

a g23 will fly the staggerwing fine. it flys off the wing . Not enough power to do aerobatics but the full scale didnt either. I want a goliath tarantula with a 12 in leg span. it wouldnt survive the trip . Too bad we cant get them up here. A whip scoprion is nice too but again it wouldnt survive the trip. ive got a lot more done with the flexible gun in the nose and will have more pics tomorrow. Remember the cockpit windows need to be trimmed as they were flush with the top and sides of the fuse.
I found paint that is 99 % close to the monokote for the od model master dunkelgrun RLM 71 (german od) and the grey is light ghost grey fs36375. i airbrused this and its so close i couldnt do better unless KRProton tells us the exact paint they used.

im doing rivets using the flitemetal rosie the riveter product. it dries crystal clear and i matt finish will make them look painted on. yes you can heat ans reshrink painted monokote if you are careful. this plane is done so well i dont have many. if i wasnt going leccy id strip and glass

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Excellent Bruno... I plan on doing the same with mine over the winter. My plan for now is on doing Betty's Dream. I may change my mind when I see the nose detail. Birds due in Monday.

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Hello Tim,

Looks like winter is here for good (8 inchs of snow!). Any tips on how to cut the belly of this B-25 before I cut? I will be reviewing the postings you made at the begining of this thread. You have not mentionned any measurements for the front and back, are you able to give me some.
Thank you,

Normand

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

a sharp zona saw. ouline the area of the bomb bay with masking tape. take your time. the cross cuts are easy but the long cuts do with a exacto blade and run the zona saw in the cuts to get rid of the formers. The doors will hold their shape just sheet the inside and cover in thin evergreen plastic. Then mark the scale holes and use a dremel to open them. my doors are not done so ill take a pic now for you. Hinging is done with flat dubros and actuation will be air cylinders from BVM not cheap but the best way to go

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Tim,
1- Thin evergreen plastic, is this a plastic with foam in between, not familiar with it. The Dubro hinges have a # can you please give it to me. For my bomb bay, I noticed the bombs are held sideway on the sidewall is that it? I intend to mount 3 rows of 2 bombs on each side using the ERS from wingspanmodel...just for fun.

For the rest of the scaling I recognize some of the material you used in your bomb bay. Very nice BTW. To actuacte the doors I really whant to try to have a servo 260oz to open and close the bomb bay and make up some mechanism. the noise of the servo will recreate the hydraulic pump noise...I'm retarded I know but I'm having fun! Most of the time the bomb bay will be opened and closed while hanging in the garage so the engine will not burry the noise.

Thanx, Normand

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

that would not be scale. one row on each side. evergreen is sheet styrene no foam. Its great stuff the LHS should carry it. the problem with a servo actuation is it will be in plain sight. pnematics look scale. Ill post more pics today as i have all the bombs with fuses done! im going to finish dremeling the holes in the doors (wife loves that part) ill get measurements to ya today. Download all my pics before yoiu start. you will need to get some flat grey momokote to recover the doors (get a roll of flat od for any repairs while your at it. You have as many planes as me and that has to be a heated garage.The cold will harm your electronics


hinges are no 117 i tried robarts but they wont open and close all the way. three of the large dubros on each side will do it. Add a little oil to the hinge before gluing incase you get glue in them you can work them loose

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Tim,

I'll stand by for measurements. I'm not closing the door on pneumatic system, it is definitely the way to go. Thanx for the Hinge # and the evergreen product. The LHS do not carry it but I think the art supply store has it. I'm starting tonight. The garage has to be heated I spend some complete evenings admiring my models and figuring out how I can add another one!!! Grey, green and green monokote already stocked.

Thanx,

Normand

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

look in the train section it comes in sheets of varying thickness! do you have a model train shop go and ask for evergreen plastic sheet. my wife is holding a sheet of the styrene and thats her just woke up she doesnt want the pic on here but oh well. doors are 13.25 inches long. the front cut is 15 inched back from the front of the fuse. Make sure the front cut lines up with the LE of the wing as that is the scale location.
more cockpit photos and 3 crew members. i need 3 cats but the dogs dont want them in the crew LOL

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Hi Normand
Just admiring your "hanger" great collection of warbirds. The way to go Warbirds live.

Ray

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

remember guys the cockpit glass and frame was flush with the sides of the fuse. careful trimming will allow you to do this. You can make the top removable using sig 090 bolts and nuts. they look scale and are what ive used (over 5000) on my corsair. get them thru the lhs 4.95 for 12 of them. im working on seats and harness assembly today its an all day job

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Let's see over 5000 screws... 5000 screws divided by 12 per pack=416.67 packages. Call it 417 packages. That would be 417 packages times $4.95 per package to get hmmmm ... [X(]$2064.15 just for screws!!!!! Don't let the wife find out!;)

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

oh she knows! i cut them off just to show the slott heads, the corsair was welded together but had thousands of screws in the wing and forward fuse. Look at the tf gs corsair build and look for my pics. they are all there. i have m ore to add than paint and markings. she already flew in primer. I will have a solo 3 blade on her and the marines Dream scheme


in the b-25 they are functional and hold the canopy and bombadier sections on. Looks just like the real thing

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Timothy- tell me you know of Micro Fasteners......

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

yup the real bolt gives you a more scale look as it is real. i drill a shallow conical pit and add a drop of jet the place the screw. Now on the B-25 she had raised rivets so ill be ordeing rosie the riveter from flite metal. People say you cant reheat painted monokote BALONEY you need to do it carefully as to not melt or burn the paint. i have a p-47 monokoted and scaled out and it looks as good as a glassed bird. If i wasnt going leccy i would have pulled off the covering and glass but it adds weight. They say it doesnt but that is not true. using .75oz glass and epoxy finishing resin makes a real strong surface but it will add a pound or two.


i have a h-9 b-25 no comparison in the detail and will make her a j short nose cannon model. then i only need one set of controls to fabricate

RE: Top Flite B-25 ARF (Tecnical, tips, suggestions)
 

Did little more progress on my TFB25, the nose was removed and 6oz glass cloth was applied over it, remember that it is a plug to mold the actual fiberglass nose section. I also worked on the bomb bay and used 3 layers of laminated 1/64 ply wich follow nicely the contour of the Bomb bay section. After the lamination was left to dry for couple of days I cleaned the edges and used it as the patern to cut the sheeting on the fuselage, once the balsa wood removed I glued the laminated plywood section into place and will be cleaning the edges in the morning.