ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I have a ModelTech Great lakes Kit #123685. It’s an ARC with build data somewhat lacking. I’m confused about wing incidence and overall flight surface setup.

The instructions say to set up the engine thrust with 2 degrees right and 2 degrees down with respect to the lower wing. It specifies NOT to use the horiz. stab as a reference for this measurement. However, it falls short of explaining just what the lower wing to horiz. stab relationship is supposed to be. Further, there is no incidence specifcation for the top wing. I’m just not content on leaving those other relationships to chance, particularly after finding the remains of this same plane in the trash can of our flying field. BTW, I took these pieces home with me for spare parts and glued them back together giving me a whole fuse and lower wing.

So, I temporarily clamped together the Great Lakes kit in order to establish what the factory builders made the relationships of the flight surfaces. Using a Robart incidence meter, I find the horz stab has 1 degree positive incidence and the upper wing has 1 1/4 positive incidence both with respect to the lower wing. This seemed strange to me and suddenly I have a possible explanation why the only other example I’ve seen of this model was found in the trash. So, I figure, before I cover the Kit top wing, I’ll make a copy for the spare parts plane I retrieved from the trash. The Kit top wing is semi-symmetrical and has a label "UP" stamped on one of the wing tip formers. However, when I made templates of the airfoil, I found that if assembled per indications, the top wing will be reversed cambered, meaning the fat part of the airfoil will be towards the bottom of the plane. Was this a stamping mistake? Or, was this done for improved inverted performance?

So, I don’t know what to do. I want this bipe to be aerobatic but land with some forgiveness. I tend toward the "hot dog" style of flying as I get bored with level flight 1 foot after take off and 1 foot before landing. Any advise?

Thanks in advance,
Lloyd

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

pleas let me know to as I have one about 6 hrs away from being done. P.S Love the kit need info on other model-tech arcs.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

From what I have read, and seen in the past, this plane will do best when hung from the ceiling. They fall out of the sky if the motor quits, do donuts on the runway, and land at the speed of heat. Need a bunch of weight in the nose to balance.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Not realy what I wanted to hear. I thought it looked to good to fly. I also added smoke, proabably will add something to the horrific crash.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Lloyd, the incidence measurements you quote for the top wing and horizontal stab are about "right on" for a biplane. Top wing is positive so it will stall first. If the bottom wing were to stall first and the top wing was still flying you would suddenly have a tail heavy airplane! NOT GOOD! Positive in the horizontal stab helps keep the plane flying level with all the lift of the two Semi-symetrical wings.
Can't help you with the possible stamping mistake. Good luck. Always wanted a Great Lakes Trainer. Tom

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Hideho all,

I am sorry to report that in my experience this is not worth the covering to apply.

As previously stated , this is possibly the worst plane ever to be offered as an ARC, or any pre-built for that matter.
Every report, from those who did not heed good advice ended in a bag O balsa.


Fortunately, I sold mine (having never risked my equiptment) at the last NW RC Expo to a guy who wanted to hang it from his resturant ceiling.

Good luck to you , however.

Best to you all,
Mike

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Hi Mike,

I have the plane, you can find some pictures and building advise at my site:

http://home.hetnet.nl/~meijhmb

look under 'bouwprojecten' (site is in Dutch)
Somewhere you can find a quote of someone 'scary little...' that I found in a newsgroup.
This is not my opinion, it is a great flying plane, but some points are to be made:
Have the cog right and keep the weight low.
I placed the rudder and elevator servo one compartment ahead.
I placed the receiver on top of the tank
I placed the throttle servo within the cowl area.
I placed the battery on top of the engine (engine inverted)
Used a saito 65 as engine Enlarged the cowl to acommodate the saito.
No lead to balance, weight is 2765 gr
I also changed the wing support. From this location I do not have the correct figures, but it thought that a piece of wood of quarter inch was placed under the rear sopport of the top wing.
Keep some power on when landing, this plane will not float, but on the other hand will slow down nicely when going from full to third power.

Greetings,
Hans

http://home.hetnet.nl/~meijhmb/images/pittsfms8050.gif

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I expect to be flying mine in a couple of weeks with a YS63. I did change the enterplane struts to 4 attachments per rather than 2. And used threaded inserts to mount the landing gear rather than wood screws. I also didn't glue in the gear cover so that I can remove it.
The geometery and weight suggest it may be a difficult airplane but certainly no worse than some others I have.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Good luck, and will you please post your findings after the first flight?

I would look foreward to your candid report on it's flight characteristics.

Best to you all,
Mike

Project on hold, for now...
 

I'm sending off for Harry Higley's book on Bipes. So, it will be a while before I contininue with this plane. Given the replies I've gotten from this forum, I feel there is something very wrong with the "as delivered" geometry.
No respondees, who have the plane, commented on the "upside down" top wing. If mine is stamped the same way all of them are, It would explain "falling out of the sky if the motor quits" by TLH101. Hans Meij had the most usefull input. Particularly the points about moving as much radio weight far forward to get correct CG, and after changing the top wing incidence to negative, gave him a "great flying airplane". Unfortunately, I don't know Dutch and I couldn't follow his web pointer. However, if his top wing was stamped and mounted upside down as mine certainly is, wouldn't reducing the incidence eliminate a great deal of drag from that useless top wing? Probably would improve the inverted performance a great deal also.

Anyway, I've decided to re-engineer the flying surface incidences and recalculate the correct CG location based on good design practices rather than the poor instructions that came in the box. I hope Harry Higley will explain that for me.

Thanks for all your supportive input. I'll post again when I learn something positive.

Cheers,
Lloyd

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Lloyd,

Perhaps this way:
http://home.hetnet.nl/~meijhmb/Proje...greatlakes.htm
http://home.hetnet.nl/~meijhmb/model...greatlakes.htm

and have you found the link to the german site of Thomas Vogel?
http://www.balsadust.net/thomas.voge...h_Great_Lakes/

Greetings,
Hans

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Great references and info Hans. Good looking plane too. My German is OK put not good enough for me to struggle through to a partial translation of the Dutch.
Did you use their control deflections called for in the instructions.
I'm surprised you had to but a spacer under the rear support. I have the tall support in the rear as called for in my instructions. It appears to be correct in order to compensate for the airfoil. But it also looks like I'll need a spacer under the front support to get a positive incidense in the upper wing. I've had it together in the bones but I didn't put an incidense meter on it then. I'm finishing the covering now. I'm covering it with Black Baron prepainted fabric. It's made out of heavium. That ought to help me a lot!!! I am hoping that its a least no worse a flier than the high wing loading Global Raven ARF and the Global 25 size Taquela Sunrise ARF. They were great fun but bad and treacherous flying planes. After about 50 to 100 flights on each I decided they were best used as wall ornaments.
I'll certainly let every one know how mine comes out before and AFTER flight.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Also there was nothing on my wing to indicate top or bottom like LLoyd found. I've looked at mine closely and it sure looks symmitrical. But I do have a significant astigmatism and even with my glasses on things are never as they seem. All my straight edges are bowed.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Sorry guys,

Did not give quite the right info in my previous post because I replied from the place where I work. Measured everything now and this is what the incidences are:

given the stab is at 0
the upper wing is + 1/2
the lower wing is 0

for this setting I had to add a piece if wood of 4mm thickness between the foremost strut and the top wing and 2mm between the rear strut and the top wing. Did not made these changes to get a certain incidence but just to close the gap.

Hans

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I had one of these, it did take a lot of weight to balance, around a pound and a half, as I remember. It crashed on the first flight when one side of the elevator let go. It would make a good Hanger Queen, as it is a very good looking plane. Good luck with yours, please let us know how it does.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I fixed the weak elevator union during assembly. Pushrod to each half.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

:mad: Out of all the bipes I have owned and flown, over 10 of them, this was by far the worst one!!! I bought the kit about 5 years ago and a friend in the club, a very good builder BTW, finished it. He had built several bipes in the past and we both though this one would be a breeze! Wrong! :mad:

After setting it up per planes and putting in an ASP .40 we tried to fly it. It was the worst flying plane I had ever flown period! Even worse that my Air Core trainer of years past. It would all of a sudden do a nose dive at certain airspeeds and at other speeds it was marginal on control.

I spent a few days one winter checking and adjusting the incidence to set it up more like my Goldberg ultimate but even after that it was terrible. I ended up trying to do a knife edge at full throttle and the darn thing snapped on me, right into the ground! I never need any bipe do that before. It was kind of fun to watch and the plane is rebuild able but not by me. I might take out the gear and give it away for someone to fix up and hang from their ceiling.

I wish you the best of luck with yours,
Randy

Great lakes Bipe
 

Hello Grasshopper,
Many moon ago I too had a Modeltech Great Lakes. It BY FAR the worst airplane that I have ever flown. Followed closely by the 60 size Global Raven. I admire your spirt by trying tomake this plane work, but please find someone who thinks it is cool and UNLOAD your balsa bomb. I wish someone would have stopped me before I finished the plane with silk and dope. What a dud plane. I know this sounds real negative but............................................... ..........been there and definately done that. Greg

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Well it's finished except for painting the cowl. Covered with 21st century painted fabric(heavy) YS63 up front with a13/6APC, a brace nut AND brass spinner nut. It weights 5lbs8oz. Put it on the CG machine and it will take 12 oz on the mount beams to balance. 6lbs 4 oz, 24.6oz/sq.ft. Not real good but not real ugly. I put a little less than 1 deg pos. inc. in the uper wing with a 5/32 block under the forward strut. Well fly(attempt) in a week or two.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

djlyon,
I wish you the best of luck! Please keep us informed of your progress.

Randy

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

djlyon,
I had put my Great Lakes projects on hold pending input from this group and my own research. I'm now ready to give it a try as soon as I finish a house project that got inserted in the que. Of all the biplane plans and examples I've encountered, none have required positive incidence in the upper wing. More often, if it is not set at zero, then it is set negative. Harry Higley, in his book on Bipes, even changed the Smith Miniplane from zero to minus one degree on the flat bottom upper wing to negate an "initial climbing tendency" for that model when built per instructions. Further, the Aeromaster bipe, highly regarded as a very good flier, has semi-symetrical wing profiles, similar to the Modeltech Great Lakes, and also calls for minus one degree on the upper wing. The rest of the plans/planes I investigated called for zero incidence.
I urge you to carefully check your upper wing profile. The example I have is most definately semi-symetrical, and is definately stamped "UP" on the wrong side of the top wing. I've never heard of a good reason to mount a semi-symetrical wing upside down on any airplane. I think Modeltech has some serious quality control issues. I never would have caught this if I had not been intent on making another top wing from the existing example. I am also going to change the the wing struts to four point attachment from the designed three. I don't want wing twist to add to any instability. Lastly, I am convinced that weight is an extremely important factor for this airplane. I will rework the empanage to take as much weight out of the tail as I can and mount all the radio gear as far forward as possible. I think I'll be able to get to this project in a couple weeks. I wish you luck with yours,

Blue skies,
Lloyd

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

If I had mounted the upper wing without the 5/32 spacer the upper wing would have been at 2 deg negative. I went positive because it seems to work for Hans and I hope the upper wing stalls with or before the lower wing. The upper wing on my Kyosho Super stearman is 2 Deg pos and it flys real nice and has no ugly stall characteristics, but it has a much lower wing loading.
I put my battery and reciever in with the tank. But I put servos in per plan. I think it's a good idea to lighten up the tail feathers and get every thing else as far forward as possible.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Well this thing came in at 6lbs 8oz after adding a brass nut and brass spinner nut plus 12 oz of lead across the motor mounts to balance. That's 26.5 oz per sq ft. It's been ready to fly for 2 weeks. Every day I could fly the wind blew straight across the run way.
Today was the day!! I went to start the engine and found I didn't have a needle valve. Back home to get it. Then I found I had the wrong transmitter. Back home to get the right one. Started engine and began to adjust needle. The tank split open even though I had wrapped it in strapping tape. I'm using a YS63. First time that happened to me. Gave up and went home. I don't think this thing wants to fly. WELL SUCKER YOU ARE GOING TO FLY. It may die but it's going to fly. Try again next week after I get back from a little rest and relaxation in Yosemite.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

djlyon ,
he he he....That's almost too funny! I remember when I bought a GS G Shark and brought it to the field for the first time. I got the plane built and supposedly ready to fly at a swap meet. So I get the plane there and I left the TX on. So I break out my field charger and start to charge. After charging I forgot to bring my ail ext. So I steal one out of my other plane. Then I can get the G-38 to run at all, turns out I had the kill switch backwards. Ok, fix that and get the motor fired up but then it only runs for a few seconds at a time then quits. 2 hours later, after taking down and cleaning the carb at the field she is finally ready to go. I start her up and take off...

15 seconds later the horizontal flutters off and she comes a crashing down!

I was mad at the time but now I just look back and laugh. I guess she really didn’t want to fly and she proved it to me once and for all.

Like I have been saying all along, good luck with your plane and I hope all goes well.

Please keep us all posted on your progress.

Randy

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Man O man I sure do admire your commitment to keep polishing that tur_ until it flies.

I really mean it, if anyone deserves to have the one and only bipe that will fly decent, you shore do.

Good luck,
And, like the rest, look foreword to hearing the rest of the story.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Please put a cheap motor in it before you fly it. Please.........................

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

LOL,
Man, that's funny!

:D:D:D:D:D:D:D!

owned two of them, still have one
 

I bought one of these when they first came out. Fell in love with their looks. Love soon turned to love hate.

First flight: Took off, very hard to control on all axis. Let it dive a little after trimming somewhat. Alerons fluttered and lost upper and lower from left side. Landed safely. Added servo in each wing. Played with cg alot, flew quite a bit. always a ***** to land, you had to have you approach speed just right. To slow it would snap and do a 24 point landing. (cartwheel) Too fast it would end up on its back and break the vertical. finally crashed after a dead stick. These planes glide like a rock.

plane #2 (I know, I like self abuse)

Lightened tail, crammed all on board gear as far forward as possible. Including servos. Used solid alum. landing gear. Mini servo in each wing. Flies better, but is still a handfull. My heart is beating everytime I land this this thing. I honestly thought I could make this plane fly well, but I really don't think that it is possible. The plane looks great, but that about all you can say for it. It hangs in tha hanger most of the time, I fly it once in a great while if I feel like scaring myself. It is very satisfying everytime I bring it home in one piece!!!

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Geez, got back from Yosemite and watched the wind blow for 2 days. This morning bloomed bright, cool and calm. Time to fly. Got to the field and started fueling the bipe. Fuel started poring out the bottom. Take the plane apart and find another split tank. A new Pylon brand tank split at the stopper and I hadn't even started the engine. I guess I could have tightened the screw to much but it's never happened to me before. I think Murphy is on the side of this plane. Thankfully I fuel proofed the inside of the plane including the radio compartment. Maybe tomorrow. YOU ARE GOING TO FLY SUCKER, MURPHY or NO MURPHY.

Greatlakes
 

Flew mine twice pretty scary. I'm stripping the gear and putting it in a new Top cap. And hang the bipe in the kids room. It flew OK kind of pitch sensitive though. Its just too pretty to smash up. I'm going to A fly in tomorrow and fly my 1/4 scale Great lakes .It too is pitch sensitive but somehow I make I make it up and down. Good luck on yours. Tom

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

This story is titled " Live and Never learn"

Saturday morning I finally got 2 flights on the Great Lakes Bipe. The first lasted about 1 second and the second about 10 minutes. The plane didn't fly as poorly as I expected and one flight is certainly not enough for conclusions, but I certainly can't recommend it. It's a challenge that may become easier as I get more flights on it. If your not pretty comfortable at flying almost anything I wouldn't recommend this. I can empithize with those who have decided to make the cute little thing an ornament.

On the first attempt at takeoff, the plane rotated violently to the left just as it got in the air and hit the ground on its wheels. Skinned up a wing tip and folded the tail wheel but didn't break the prop. I thought snap roll at first but I'm not sure. For the second take off I added a little right rudder and aileron trim. The plane tracked down the runway and didn't get swervy until the ground speed was quite high (like many tail draggers). A touch of elevator and she was climbing out. She seemed a bit touchy on the ailerons. The YS63 was hauling it to high airspeed and altitude in a hurry. I pulled back to half throttle, leveled it out put in a couple of clicks of up trim and it was groving. It's fast even at 1/2 throttle and sencitive to elevator and aileron around neuteral. Loops, stalls and rolls were all clean. Didn't see any tendency to snap roll except the first take off. finally headed in for a landing. The plane came in straight and clean with good control all the way down but kind of fast. Every thing looked good till just before touch down when I ran out of up elevator. Bouncy, bouncy landing. Folded the tail wheel wire again so I decided that flimsy thing needed to be change before I flew it again. I don't need to have it causing problems during takeoff. Overall not bad for one flight. I could learn to like the little bullit. This is tuff to call with one flight but right now I'm thinking nose heavy and in need of exponential.

But Murphy was still lurking, looking for an opertunity he knew would come.
I was also helping a newcomer setting up and flying his trainer and helping him set up a new engine in another plane. I gradually hurrying, becoming careless and making serious mistakes and only partially realizing it. Murphy watched and hid in the little bipe. Finally it was time to go home. I defueled the little bipe, Disconnected the fuel lines and readied to start the engine to run the fuel out of the crank case.
Later that afternoon the doctor assured me I wouldn't loose my left thumb but I would probably loose most of the feeling in it. After she put 10 stitches in it she said it should just fine in a few weeks.
So it will probably be a little while till I fly anything or at least unill next Wednesday. I Knew I should never have gotten rid of my old single stick radio

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

THE REST OF THE STORY

Four days after nearly cutting my thumb off again I flew one of my pattern planes and discovered that if you have no feeling in your thumb you don't know what's happening with the rudder and as I moved the throttle I was moving the rudder quite a lot without knowing it. Even increasing the stick tension didn't help.
Started learning to fly with index finger and thumb. Spent a lot of time flying my Balsa Nova and Pizazz. After a couple of months some feeling came back into my thumb and I felt comfortable flying anything again.

So two Saturdays ago I took the Great Lakes out again. Every thing went fine. Stalls looked like the thing might be nose heavy but inverted flight said it wasn't. I let the rate of descent get to high on landing and broke the gear.
The following Tuesday I tried again. I set up a good approach with a little power on and a nice AOA. Everything looked good till the mains touched the ground. The nose popped up as usual. The plane rolled and caught a wing tip then went on its nose. The engine and firewall popped out without breaking any wood, just glue joints.
I pulled my engine and radio out and gave the plane to a fellow club member.
I think this plane can be landed but probably has a very tight envelop of airspeed, AOA and rate of descent for success.
If I were still in Georgia flying off the old sod farm I would have stuck with it maybe. But here I'm flying off black top and I figure it would never survive the 10 to 20 flights it might take to figure out how to land this thing.
Like a boat I was glad when I got it and glad when I got rid of it.
Sure was a cute little thing though.

Great Lakes (Modeltech)
 

I've had several Modeltech ARC's, my favorite by far being the Dragon Lady (wish I could find one). So when I got my Great Lakes I had high expectations. I spent A LOT of time on it. I covered it with 21st Century Fabric and did the best job I've done in 35 years of modeling. As I began installing the engine (TT .46) and radio gear, I realized quickly that I was going to have balance problem. So I did what everybody does--I moved all the gear forward, used a Higley heavy prop nut, and put about 5 oz. of lead in the cowling.
Then I went to fly it. Everything everyone has said about it is true. You really have to on top of this one to fly it and make it look like you are in control. It's a real chore! I can land it fine. I just need to power it in. But it's like an unguided missile in the air. You never know exactly what it's going to do, even with the same control input! And the reactions to control are extremely speed sensitive. And I hate flying it except for the fact that it looks so pretty in the air. But right now it looks pretty suspended in the air from the ceiling in my basement.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Another hideho to all,

Like I said before, I have never heard a good word about this plane other than it makes a purty hangar queen...

To much time and effort to make it worth it...

I like a challenge as much as the next guy...but this plane is clearly a dawg of momentous proportions.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

You guys are really depressing me. I've still got two of these to finish! And, you're not giving me any incentive to do so. How come no one knows why these planes don't fly well? The name alone can't be the cause! While I can accept that the machine is flawed, I don't understand why these flaws can't be addressed and corrected besides tossing the entire plane. No one seems to be able to identify what the problems are. Where are the expert problem solvers when you need them? Guess I've got an adventure to look forward to, eh?

How much rash can a Great Lakes have before it's not so great anymore? News at 11.

And, I'm having problems with an Aeromaster Too!

Wish I had a wind tunnel...

Cheers,
Lloyd

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I flew mine twice and hung it up. What a dissapointment..

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Problem solvers, you ask?

Well, I was the 3rd or 4th owner of the one that I had...it had been repaired beautifully and was set up per the instructions.

I then had the pleasure to watch two of them try to fly with "pros" at the sticks. Not funny. Try to stay ahead of it, then catch up, then hold your breath for landing.....then do the minor repairs to get it back up...It's just a bad plane, design, and implementation of an otherwise good flying full scale plane.

Just how much dorking around to just make it fly is it worth to you?

Sell yours, cut your losses quick, that's my advice.

I sold mine for a 50% loss and was darn glad to get it. Beats the heck outta turning it back to balsa dust and tossing it in the can, doncha you think?

Best to you all,
Mike

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Although this post was a year ago, I too have one of these that some wisecrack sold me. I tried the recommended .40 and it just waddled down the runway for about a mile. Stuck a .46 on it and it broke ground, this is when I found how poorly set up this plane was. Tough little sucker, did cartwheels down the entire length of the 800' runway without a scratch. In fact, that day, we purposely flew it to see how many cartwheels it could do before the top wing would come off.
Was looking through a copy of MA one day, cant' remember what issue, and saw two of these flying, actually in the air! I got the guy's e-mail through AMA and found out he and his buddy stuck on a Rossi .61 with a tuned pipe.
I stuck an enya .61 with a tuned pipe from one of my pattern ships on mine, adjusted the CG, and for once it flew with a little more confidence. Your comment about the top wing being upside down may explain why mine will fly level inverted but need 6 clicks up elevator in normal attitude.
Final note, throw away the landing gear and bolt on some sturdy aluminum gear into a solid block. The gear on mine kept moving which really made for quite a show when waddling down the runway.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

Hi Guys, I know this thread is really old, but I have a bit of extra information on this plane. I inherited one from a fellow club member here in Oz, that had only had 2 flights - only 1 landing though! It went into a dive when the motor cut, and couldn't be pulled out. I got it in several pieces and put it back together, as per the original instructions, and found that it needed the 1lb lump of lead that came with it on the end of the motor mount, to get it to balance as per instructions.

I managed to get hold of a couple of magazine reviews from when it came out, and a couple of things in there, plus a couple of weird things in the manual, led me to believe that the C.G. given in the manual had to be wrong. I've now bolted it all together, with no mods at all, chucked 2 ounces of lead on the firewall to make up for the cowl which didn't survive, and ended up with a C.G. just over an inch further aft than the instructions recommend. I flew it on the weekend, and it seems just a touch too tail heavy. I'm thinking the C.G. needs to come forward about 1/4" at the most - way off the recommended.

Anyway, it flew pretty well - fairly gentle stall, nice low speed cruise. It was just a little touchy on the Elevators, due to being a touch tail heavy, and also changed its' pitch to nose high as the fuel burnt off. I think they'll both clear up with a minor adjustment. All I've got mounted in it is a brand new Magnum 52 four stroke, and it pulls along just fine.

I think it's a great little plane, just a couple of errors in the manual. If anybody wants to resurrect theirs, I'd be happy to measure and post the exact C.G. of mine, and I'll let you know how she goes when I've fine tuned her.

P.S. This is only my second plane since my trainer - so I'm no expert flyer!!!

Regards,
Chippie.

Perth, Western Australia.

ModelTech Great Lakes Setup
 

I'm interested, please post.