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AirTech 11-03-2010 01:19 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 

ORIGINAL: kerwin50

I've done the motor/pot switch an futaba even sells reversed servo's.
The biggest problem is making sure it's control arm is in the identical posistion as the other.
any differences and the elevators won't track the same.
That’s a common problem of all servos, even when they are reversed via software (receiver channel mixing). I believe that’s most of an issue with analog servos since hardly any two servos have the same exact center point and equal endpoints.

Digital servos may match better because the higher resolution (smaller dead band width). In addition most digital servos have the ability to be programmed for centering and end points. With my JR 9303 there is also the capability of adjusting the servo speed which further aids in matching servo positioning through their full rotation range.

Some narrow band width analog servos of less than 8usec may be easier to match. A Match Box will provide a large degree of matching when there is no means to reprogram the servo internal firmware. Hitec sells an inexpensive version of their HPF-20 $155; the new HPP-21wich requires a computer interface but for $50 is a real good deal. By the way I just found out [link=http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?cPath=40_259_269&products_id=5875]Hyperion[/link] is selling their line of servos (Atlas) and the digital ones are inexpensive and programmable via a USB cable adapter and your computer. yiperion software is free and downloadable from their web site.

AirTech 11-03-2010 02:43 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Were did you got the Ethanol decals? BTW that"s a very neat install.

G.Barber 11-03-2010 02:46 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Those decals are an optional set from Redwing RC (or at least they used to be.)

RedwingRC 11-03-2010 03:00 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
The ethonal ones should be in the kit.  .. they say Ethonal kicks gas

and some little mx2 ones too

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 04:13 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
1 Attachment(s)
So last night:
Got the motor (mostly) installed.. just need to work on the servo/choke pushrod...
The tail finnished completely, with its servos etc.
Started to look at the layout of the full install..

At the moment I have servos/signals running down the left of the plane, and will do the battery/BEC down the right to separate them.

Just having problems finding away to make a choke pushrod that does not foul at all the throttle.. its a crappy design they have where the 2 arms are beside each other on the motor and in line with their direction of travel!!! Driving me mad!!

A question.
How are we all checking the C/G on this plane.. does it have to be upside down like most smaller artf´s or right way up when balancing it??

Tseres 11-04-2010 06:21 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
1 Attachment(s)
You might consider eliminating the Choke Servo.The manual choke rod has been working well for me and it's a lot lighter. It also leaves one channel open on your receiver.
Here is a picture of the choke setup on my 28.

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 06:26 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Am I being stupid? I cant see the throttle pushrod.
Right now I am in my work, workshop fabricating an aluminum bridge to go between the 2 mounting screws to support the choke rod just like you have.
i'm not using a choke servo.. I need the RX channels for the dual elevator servos and in the future... maybe smoke.

Tseres 11-04-2010 07:06 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 


ORIGINAL: ceecrb1

Am I being stupid? I cant see the throttle pushrod.
Right now I am in my work, workshop fabricating an aluminum bridge to go between the 2 mounting screws to support the choke rod just like you have.
i'm not using a choke servo.. I need the RX channels for the dual elevator servos and in the future... maybe smoke.
The throttle push rod is hidden by the standoff.

Here is a video on how to start the 28. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgr_UAML2s8

I'll try to find a clear picture of the throttle push rod for you.

Tseres 11-04-2010 07:14 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is a picture of the throttle push rod.
I made the servo arms out of aluminum. But you can also use the Hitec blue arms.

The second picture has the Hitec arm installed on my 56.

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 07:20 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
AAAAAHHH now I get it!!

Is it just me or is it a real cockup in the design that both those arms are exactly inline with each other?!

I might end up using a servo arm too like yourself.. Right now I m using one of the spacers used in a trex 450 fusolage to move the ball link away from the arm.

Tseres 11-04-2010 07:47 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 


ORIGINAL: ceecrb1

AAAAAHHH now I get it!!

Is it just me or is it a real cockup in the design that both those arms are exactly inline with each other?!

I might end up using a servo arm too like yourself.. Right now I m using one of the spacers used in a trex 450 fusolage to move the ball link away from the arm.
All the engine manufacturers use the carbs as they get it out of the box. They were designed for weed eaters. It is up to us to make it work. There just isn't enough volume for the carb manufacturers to adapt them to RC. It's just one part of modeling. Once you do one the rest become easy. Heck You may even come up with a better way with the T-Rex stuff. There is more then one way to do things.

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 08:01 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
1 Attachment(s)
well this is what I´ve created for the choke pushrod guide.

As i´m at work and the plane at home, I decided to make a "generic" adaptor so I can move from one hole to another depending on the fit. lukily today I have my laptop with the jc28 manual and its measurements etc.

I´m currently calling various shops around here looking for 2mm screws and nylon locking knutts.. i´m short by ONE in the kit!! grrr

Tseres 11-04-2010 08:38 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Just make sure you insulate the push rod. Make sure you don't have any metal to metal contact.

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 06:26 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
So.
Lots done tonight! I got my 2mm screws and nylon nutts.. SO..

Managed to install the motor and all the regulators etc.. plus finnish off the undercarriage so only the cowel and set the C/G and battery location to go!!! First "dry run" of the C/G with no cowl makes me think the lipo will be somewhere between the wing tube and RX. Currently its great with the lipo just infront of the RX but I didnt properly mark the location on the wings and also the plane is missing the cowel. Either way its definately not miles away and in need of 10kg of lead!!

I`m doing my testing with a 1mtr long cable for the lipo so wherever it goes, no matter i dont need to alter anything, just work out a way to afix the lipo.

Got the choke and throttle linkage worked out.. see photo. Just needed my alu guide I made today (which i´ve cut even smaller) to help tidy things up.
Note in the photo.. The spacer at the throttle arm is from a Trex 450 fusolage. It does very nicely in getting the 2 pushrods "out of alignment". I did need to buy a packet of M2x16mm bolts to gain the length needed to pass the ball link, seperator, throttle arm and have spare for the nut.

Found my first flaw in the kit!
The collars in the tail wheel threaded their nut almost instantly!! absolutely no preasure used to tighten them both and they both threaded. I had more from other kits still around so no big loss..

Tseres 11-04-2010 07:49 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Looks real nice. You did get a lot done today.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

ceecrb1 11-04-2010 08:27 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
So can i set c/g with the plane the right way up or do i need to invert it?

RedwingRC 11-04-2010 08:54 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 


CHeck out my video ... the last vid in the series talks about CG.  Do it upright at the root, and then just listne to the video and put it where you think based on your level.  Everyone has been REALLY happy where they set it after listening/watching that

http://www.youtube.com/user/RedwingR...10/avfwvZHE62g

</p>

AirTech 11-05-2010 10:50 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 

ORIGINAL: ceecrb1

So can i set c/g with the plane the right way up or do i need to invert it?

On most monoplanes there should make no difference in balancing the CG right side up or inverted. Most monoplanes (with the exception of parasol designs) have their center of gravity very close to the aerodynamic center. Parasol and Biplanes designs have a greater difference between the center of lift and the aerodynamic center so they must be balanced right side up at their upper wing.

airborne2.4 11-06-2010 06:49 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Holding the fin in a hover [X(] T this is huckin on another level! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWDEsav7yZU

ceecrb1 11-06-2010 09:12 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
So, today took the plane to the club.. Spent a while fiddling with th jc28 but think its going well enough to maiden and fly without fear of a deadstick.
However.. Didnt fly as the tailwheel assembly didnt last long enough! The small rod for steering just wont stay in its hole, in the end i all but destroyed the gru. Screw head, while at the clun we tried cyano, epoxy and souldaring bt nothing will keep it in place

RedwingRC 11-06-2010 10:18 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
try sanding or dremel a side to flatten it a bit (just a little).  I know it's small, but the flat surface should help.  You could try a softer wire, and maybe a new grub screw. 

AirTech 11-06-2010 11:28 AM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 


ORIGINAL: RedwingRC

try sanding or dremel a side to flatten it a bit (just a little). I know it's small, but the flat surface should help. You could try a softer wire, and maybe a new grub screw.
I filed a very small flat on the wire and used removable LockTite on the set screw, never have a problem so far.

ceecrb1 11-06-2010 02:26 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Ok. so i´ve done as suggested, used the mini grinder head on the dremel to flatten the end of the rod.. then I cut down one of the 2mm screws I bought the other day.
The head sticks out but it just fits in the gap between the tail wheel asembly and the fusolage, it also has the benefit of a proper head and so a larger size key.. ie I managed to get it night and tight.

ok, next dumbass thing.

I have NO idea how but I have misplaced the exhaust gasket for the motor.. today I tried without.. but there is some leakage..
What can I use as a replacement?
had the bin out on the floor 3 times... COMPLETELY gone through the workshop from top to bottom left to right etc etc.. no sign of the damn thing.. worst is I rember on tuesday night I "placed it somewhere to keep it safe" [:@][:@][:@][:@]


Should get it in the air tomorrow, weather depending!!


DaleD 11-06-2010 03:34 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 
Red silicone works well as a substitute for exhaust gaskets. I use this on all my glow and previous gas engine.Nice looking plane you have there. I bought one, statred a build thread but got pulled away from updating it by work. I've finished the build, waiting on good weather to maiden as hurricane Tomas disrupted my plans to maiden her this weekend.I'll post some pictures.

AirTech 11-06-2010 03:45 PM

RE: RedWing MX2 Build
 


ORIGINAL: ceecrb1

Ok. so i´ve done as suggested, used the mini grinder head on the dremel to flatten the end of the rod.. then I cut down one of the 2mm screws I bought the other day.
The head sticks out but it just fits in the gap between the tail wheel asembly and the fusolage, it also has the benefit of a proper head and so a larger size key.. ie I managed to get it night and tight.

ok, next dumbass thing.

I have NO idea how but I have misplaced the exhaust gasket for the motor.. today I tried without.. but there is some leakage..
What can I use as a replacement?
had the bin out on the floor 3 times... COMPLETELY gone through the workshop from top to bottom left to right etc etc.. no sign of the damn thing.. worst is I rember on tuesday night I ''placed it somewhere to keep it safe'' [:@][:@][:@][:@]


Should get it in the air tomorrow, weather depending!!


I use High Temp RTV ( black silicone) sold at any auto store. If you like to get fancy most auto stores sell gasket material in sheets. You can place an oversize piece of this material over the muffler port and lightly tap with a small soft mallet around the port edges until you obtain a profile indention on the material. Then using scissors and Exacto knife cut along the port pattern. I use a brass tube of the proper size sharpened on one end to cut the bolt holes.


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