I built my second Gyroshtick exactly like the plan suggested. I used the recommended engine and kept it light. It primary controls are the rotor tilt system with no controls in the rudder or elevator. I still have the same stability problem as my last heavy Gyroshtick. It is handful to fly.

I am in a process of adding rudder control. I am planning to use less rotor tilt control and use a lot more rudder for lateral control. The rotor tilt control will be used to trim the model.

Would adding more rudder control help my stability problem?

Wahid

Adding rudder won't make any difference to the stability however, it will enable you to make turns without having to heave the model over too far in roll. I built a couple of gyros that used a full direct controlling head and had a rudder. It was extremely effective and eventually I mixed in some rudder with roll on the hub which worked a treat. If you have a rudder installed you might find that you can greatly reduce the control thrown to roll control on the hub making control a lot less frantic.
These days I tend to give my gyros loads of control throw and just use exponential on the transmitter to soften it up.

If its stability you want then you can make the surface area of the mast much greater (preferably above the c of g position) and/or lower the centre of gravity of the model.

Sean

I think you just spelled out the exact problem I have. I roll too far to turn left then I over react and roll too far to the right. I end up oscillating back and forth and eventually making a hard or crash landing. I don't think I have stability problem.

I am building a ECDC gyro and it’s almost complete. It will have rudder control and rotor tilt for lateral control. It will not be a full DC because I will us only the elevator for pitch control.

Hi Wahid - Sorry to read you are having control problems. Having never built a Gyrostick I cannot comment on its stabilty. But a thought - are your rotors freely able to flap? Could your hinges be too stiff? I use thin polypropylene (code 5 plastic sheet) on all my autogyros. All four are quite sensitive to roll control input but within the ability of an average flier to handle. Not a lot of tilt movement is required. Three of my planes have rudder control but I do not have to use it, in fact once airborne I often forget I have rudder control. They can however be turned with rudder only and no tilt, and any subsequent roll to one side is soon corrected with rotor tilt control. Incidently all four planes have no built in sideways tilt to the rotor shaft, it is vertical when viewed from front or rear and with TX stick in centre position. Maybe this won`t help!
Regards, Colin

The Gyroshtick is a very small model liike the simple G or Suitcase mini isn't it ?

Just as Tintrax described I also use plypropylene hinges and sideways trim is rarely required. I do find that I sometimes need side trim if the engine is mounted such that it puts the c of g off to one side.
Your over control descriptions do sound just like when I started out with my small Direct Control Gyro. Simple answer is to reduce the throws or ( ideally) use exponential on your transmitter if you have it. Start pretty heavy with up to about -40% and this should stop you over correcting.

I also fly really fast small flying wing models. Without expo they are sluggish with small throws at low speed or an oscillating nightmare when they get to about 200 if you increase the throws. Some folks either refrain from or don't understand exponential but I find it really useful especially on gyros.

I think my Simple G had about 6 degrees movement each side if I recall from days before I learnt to get to grips with gyros (or had expo)

Sean