Hello gyro guys,

I'm a new to auto gyros and need some help please, I work in Saudi Arabia and have no access to reliable mail order, or proper RC spares, balsa, composites RC fittings and all the everyday stuff we use. [] Does anyone know of a good way to get a consistent profile on rotor blades? I regularly trawl the net and read all the stuff I can on auto gyro construction, most excellent sites and contributions on this forum too, I get inspired by some of the stuff I see here. I have dabbled with a semi scale Cierva, first with single main rotor, then a twin non hinging rotor, with some success. I have managed to get off the ground in a straight line, but in the turn I lose height, maybe not enough power to combat the drag, it seems marginal at best. This is the best model flying I've had. keep up the good work and hope some one has an idea for making good rotor blades.

Thanks.

regards Al

This may help in sanding you airfoils. http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...oilshaping.pdf

I made some 3inch chord blades using balsa and basswood that I carved which worked well.

Rich,

Thank you, I like the ideas, especially the spot lamp and comparison by shadow, never would have thought of that, cheers mate!
I will give that a bash next week I have some free time in mornings before work.

happy landings.

Al Thomson

I've carved a few by hand using a plane and long sanding block.
Here's and idea if you are going to make a lot of blades.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=392919&page=3
mickey

Hi
I have built many dual rotor gyros with great success. Most of the info that you find pertain to single rotor. One of the main problems with dual rotors is rudder size. Because gyros fly slow, the prop provides most of the air flow over the rudder and the rudder has to overcome the drag caused by the rotors for the gyro to turn. I converted a one third scale cub to a gyro and almost lost it on the first flight due to lack of airflow over the rudder. The Cub has a wide fuselage which blocks the air from the rudder, especially during landing, when the nose is high. This is something to be aware of. With dual rotors, increase the rudder surface by 50% over normal and you will be amazed at the difference in control.

Before rotor blades became commerically available, I curved all my own. Start by marking the blade profile on the end of the wood. I used a hand held belt sander, inverted setting on a table for the coarse work. Using a pencil, put lots of marks on the wood and that way you can tell where you have sanded.

Good luck and keep the sand out of your rotor bearings. Lets see more pictures.

Phil

Rich, Mickey, Phil and Gary, et al,

Thanks guys for the help, I have plenty of ideas now and all achievable out here in the Bondoo (wilds)
My mate has some more pictures taken of model flying here with some autogyro shots too, I'll get them up on my profile later so if you are interested you can have a wee look. I really like the jig for molding blades by a template and sanding, thats so clever, there are some cool ideas going on now and from the past, thats what I like about this site, so helpful.

regards Al