Ok, Ok,,I know I'm new to these glow planes as for 3+ plus years never once had to clean up one of my epowered planes. My dilemma, I hate that burnt looking rusty stain that's on my 4 stroke muffler. Just wondering what you all use to keep it looking brand spankin' new. Gotta love that shiny finish

Someone (I totally forgot) sells a cleaner that knocks that stuff right off. I've seen Clarence Lee discuss it a coupel of times in his columns. The other way is a slow cook in antifreeze. I have a cheap small crockpot in my workshop that I fill with antifreeze and set on low with any engine parts that need cleaning in there. Takes that gunk right off.

Clean it???

That stuff is a badge of honor...

It's like a baby cutting its teeth...

And you want to clean it OFF???!!!

Geez, you sound like my wife! LOL

LOL,,,

Yeah, I need it shiny. Looks cool on those slow flybys.

What does LOL means?

cruzomatic,
I just did the crock pot, anti-freez thing and it works better than I had hoped.

jucava,
Laughing out loud.

So I fully submerge the muffler in warm antifreeze in the crock pot?

LOL=laughing out loud.

Cruz,

You don't want to put in anything that is rubber like seals. So be careful about that.
If I were you I would leave it be or just take the muffler off and clean it by itself.

Bill

Hey Bill,,

How about this? Warming some antifreeze in a pan, dipping a small wash rag in it and simply wiping the muffler?? Or what about 'simple green'??

crock pot and antifreeze works great!!!!

O.... and yes I did buy my wife a new one

I have used Bug and Tar remover that you buy in the Automotive section of any discount store. I use a old tooth brush. Works pretty good. Just seal off your carb.

PS - Don't ever use a crock pot after antifreeze.

I think the stuff Montague was referring to is "Demaon Clean", put out by Dave Gierke Flying Models.

You brush the stuff on, wait 30 to 40 minutes, then scrub the engine with a tooth brush under warm water. Works really well for that brown, baked on, oily residue.

Stuff is pretty nasty. You'd want to wear rubber gloves while working with the stuff. (He recommends it.) But I guess if it's going to work, it has to be potent.

Not sure if the price is still accurate, but I have an order form that came with mine. $18.95 (includes shipping) for an 8 ounce can.

Dave Gierke Flying Models
PO Box 83
Bowmansville, NY. 14026
716) 681-4840
(Assuming that's still accurate.)
Dennis-

Automotive carburetor cleaner and a small stainless steel brush.

Works in minutes and quite well, too.

Here's a tip everyone can use from time to time.

If you have some sort of deposit-like stain or buildup you've tried to remove, and nothing seems to work, that is to say, you've tried water and you've also tried some sort of solvent, each with no results, then try them in combination. Some varnish type deposits will never come off if you use each cleaner separately.

Also you can use a technique employed by cooks the world over for centuries called deglazing. Heat the metal object without doing damage to it and then immediately sprinkle with a small amount of cold water and scrub lightly with a brush. While the object is sputtering and making steam is when your're at your best cleaning potential. This may work on your muffler. It might not be the best first resort, but if all else fails......

Luck to all!!!

Geez. Just saw my post. If you hadn't already guessed, the stuff is called "Demon Clean".
Dennis-