OK.

My bro and I have 2 planes a GP extra 300s and a Phoenix Giles g-202. The Extra has a 46ax and the giiles a 55ax.

The extra runs and flys awesome. The Giles's 55ax has been a headache. I love the engine, it sounds great and is very smooth. The 55 had about 13 flights on it and has probably had about a gallon of fuel thru it. It runs like a top on the ground.

During the 9th flight about 2 minutes in during a go-around in a sligt right climbing turn the engine quit. I had to dead stick the plane into a corn field. The plane only needed a new prop. Ichecked the tank, lines, and ran another 4 tanks of gas thrut it on the ground. 3 days ago I flew the plane 3 times....loops rolls...stall turns.....no problems. Then we flew it again today. About a minute and a half diring the first flight the engine sputtered slightly while on downwind. I decided to land. During the right base leg with about 1/3 power in the engine quit. With 20knot headwinds and a grove of trees to fly thru it was a miracle Imade it to the runway. I actually lost sight of the plane behind the trees for about 3 seconds before it popped out the other side and barely made it to the runway.

Anyways these dead sticks are no fun. I cant see any bubbes on the ground in the lines when the engine is running. I also leaned to max revs then richened the high speed needle about 100 degrees from peak rpm before the flight. The Engine picked up rpms slightly in the nose up test. It idled nicely and had a good transition from idle to full power. Ido have a du-bro fuel filler between the fuel tank and carb. (other fuel line is capped, and there of course is one to the stock muffler). I have not touched the low speed needle valve from its factory setting.

I am also looking for good props for both of these airplanes. looking for good sport performance, descent speed, big loops, and a hover at max throttle.....no 3d or anything. Any suggestions? Here are some pics, thanks for the help.

check your low end, mine does this if the low end is set too rich and they usualy are from the factory

I had something similiar occur.

It turned out that I had a slight cut in the line that only manifested when the plane was in the air.

I kept pulling the fuel tank, looking for a plumbing problem only to miss it time and again.

I agree, it might not be a bad idea to adjust the low end and really take a good look at the fuel system, including inside the tank.

Also, your picture shows no cowl but are you flying it with one on it? if so, you may need better air flow for cooling. i have made the mistake of not cutting a big enough outlet only to have an engine overheat and quit during flight.

You may want to throw in a new glow plug to just to rule it out and don't forget to check all the engine screws. I've seen cylinder heads come loose and make engines run funny.<br type="_moz" />

Sweet,

Thanks for the help.  We are going to run it w/o the cowel tomorrow.  I have a huge hole cut underneath the engine.  Plus its about 48 degrees here today.  So i'm sure its not getting to hot.  I'll mess with the low end a bit.

I'll check the fuel system again, and check the plug and the head screws.

Thanks for the help.  I'll let you know how it goes.<br type="_moz"/>

Engines lean out a bit in the air....when you adjust the high end for max power do you richen about a 1/4 to an 1/8th after max power is set? you could be a little lean...
If you can't find anything wrong with your plumbing I'd change the glow plug....

Before you touch the low end, replace the fuel lines. You may have a cut that is not visible.

Also, try a new glow plug and see if that helps.

Another possibility is with the type of fuel you are using. We had a lot of issues when using plain castor and no nitro on our engines at the field (random deadsticks similar to what you are having). Then someone tried a batch of Klotz 100 (I think). Its synthetic fuel with 8%-12% castor oil and synthetic lubricant in the Klotz lubricant (Total 20% lubricant) and we added in 5% nitro simply for some flexibility. That solved the problem so much so that when we had a shortage and tried plain castor again, we kept getting deadsticks.

With regards to the prop, you can try 12x6 or 13x4. The 12x6 is good for some hovering and the 13x4 for more 3D. I personally use 13x4 even on my sports airplanes as I like more acceleration than speed but that is your decision. I use MAS props only as the APC ones tend to break easily if you have a less than perfect landing. If you prefer APC, I suggest you use MAS till you sort your engine problems out

Ameyam

I just remembered that I have seen a few problems with some of the Phoenix/Seagull tanks that came with the plastic lines already in the stopper.Replacing the stopper and using metal tubing fixed it.

OK,

So I checked the fuel lines, and tank again under pressure.  We ended up leaning out the low end mixture about 45 degrees.  It ran much smoother at the low end better transition to full throttle also.  We installed a 13x4 prop.   And re-set the top end.  Full power nose up with a slight increase in revs.

THIS AIRPLANE CAME TO LIFE.  Thank you for the prop recommendation.  It still slew amazingly blazingly fast but had unlimited vertical and sounded way meaner.............. was screaming..

This model is now probably the most high performance plane that I have ever seen fly at our field recently.......to bad its my brothers.  I just wish I could  find the best prop for my 46ax in my GP extra 300s. The 12x5 seemed slightly better than the 11x6...maybe a 12x4 is the way to go?   This Giles is way more airplane than the extra now.  Maybe I'll have to get a revolver or something.

Thanks again guys.  Cheers.<br type="_moz"/>

BTW we ran about 1/2 a gallon of fuel thru it today with no problems.