New,
Cooling holes in the fuse are good! try to have 2-3 time the area of the intake holes for the hot air to exit
380 sized motors are also called speed 400, the difference usually being the 380 has had the back removed, and a metal back w/bearings put in it's place. Graupner is a good inexpensive one, available for 9.99 here at the LHS, and if you check Model Airplane news or one of the magazines, you'll find all kinds of places to order them. Let me know if you find what you need.

All I can offer about the prop "windmilling, is make sure your trim on the throttle is all the way down.

Jetts

Jetts,
I really appreciate the time you are taking to answer all my ?'s
When I used to race electric cars, the motors were rated by turns. Motors of different turns could also pull a different amount of amps, depending on timing, and brush setup.
Are electric plane motors similar? I guess I'm scared of getting a "hot" motor that will toast my little esc!

I would like to find a nice bearing motor for my plane, that would be a little more efficient. The plane seems to have plenty of power for me right now, but the motor tends to get hot as ramavan has stated.
On your suggestion, I'm going to add some vents in the fuse, and (using very thin aluminum) bend a small heatsink that will fit the motor can.

I'm attaching a pic of the motor, is this anything like the graupner motor you spoke of? Do plane motors come in different winds?
Thanks again for the help!
Wayne

New,
I'm not aware of different windings, and timings on plane motors, other than the fact that some are made for pushe, or geabox, usually with an R in the designation.
Heat sink is a good idea for any of them, and as far as I know the graupner motors are typically 380 Mabuchi motors with a metal endbell, bearing (plain and ball) they change the name to speed 400. I'm not an expert on electric motors, but if you get a graupner, speed 400, you will see a little improvement over what you have now. They also have the same screw pattern for mounting in a gearbox.
Tower or whoever you order from should give you a little more tech advice as far as that goes.
Jetts

Newberry,

I have also noticed that the prop does not fold when gliding. Maybe if the prop folded easier it would solve the problem (a little oil in the folding area?)

I'm not sure the holes for cooling would be a good idea. Seems like it would weaken the nose. I have had a few nose-hit landings and the nose has barely survived. The heatsink sounds like a great idea though.

I'm glad you guys mentioned other motors.... perhaps I could buy a better motor. I'm concerned that the prop will not fit on another properly though. I'm not sure how standard that shaft is. The motor would be kind of useless if it ended up being too big or small. What do you think? Stock motors are $12.

lets get something straight... you cant get to big of a motor
if the motor is to big your plane is just to small..... remember and speak the mantra frequenty ... MORE POWER !!!! AHH AHHA AHHH

Guys,

I doubt if the prop shaft will be an issue. It's pretty easy to adapt a prop anyhow. Most in this motor size are the same.
A GOOD speed 400 (Graupner) is less money. 8-9.99.
Yes, oil the pivot point on the folder, and ANY KIND of heat removal system will help the longevity of the motor.

Jett

Hehe midnitedew, I will probably have your "thirst for power" eventually, right now I'm scared just flying slow!

ramovan, you can check the motors out here:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed280.htm

I have been reading a bit, and from what I understand the standard speed 400 motor that Jetts recommended is probably the best one.
The 480 sized long, black can motor is supposedly a good choice, but it may require larger battery packs than we are running.

Same for the rocket 400, its listed as "7.2v" whereas our motors are probably 6v (giving more power on the 8.4v we are using).

There is also a speed 400 Race with Ball Bearings, but again its 7.2v.

I probably will drill some small 1/8" holes in flat sides of the nose. I think if I stay away from the corners, I won't loose much rigidity. I'm probably going to put a couple of 1/4"holes in the bottom rear of the fuse, and epoxy some small pieces of lightweight carbon arrows (6 grains per inch) with the arrow shaft pointing slightly down. I'm hoping to get a "venturi" effect, like in a carb to pull the air through the plane.

electrics have a speed control so you dont have to fly fast if you dont want to... its better to have the power and not need it as opposed to needing it and not having it....

I think all the 380 or 400 motors rated for 7.2v will do 8.4 without problems. Most of the ones I see actually say 7.2 - 8.4v.

I'm going to the LHS to see what they have for motors and hopefully try something different. I agree with Newberry.... I don't need more speed or power, but more efficient and durable would be nice.

I bought new new 400 motor at the LHS today for $10. Everything fits really well and it looks like it may be a little better quality, but the prop fits slightly loose. In fact, then I turned it on it flew right of the motor. The shaft is the right size but it doesn'nt have the knurl that is on the stock motor. I tried a drop of super glue to see how that works.

Any better ideas?

If that won't do it, Pull it off, lightly sand the shaft, clean it with alchohol, and the use a drop of CA.

Jetts

Thats a good idea. The super glue did seem to work, but if it comes off sometime I try that.

The new motor really eats up the battery. It doesn't last as long as the stock motor at all. It doesn't seem like it is running any faster either. I don't need more power, I need more run time! Do you have any ideas that will make this thing run longer? I don't have much space for larger batteries nor could I afford the weight so I may be stuck with it. Makes me want to buy a gas airplane, but gas is such a headache plus all the accessories I would have to buy to get started. I'm sure gas is better for longer runs but the question is, how much better? Is there an electric out there with larger capacity batteries that actually last a decent amount of time? I just want 15 minutes..... REAL 15 minutes (since they all say will last 15 minutes (liars)).

gear the motor and run a bigger prop

I'm getting ready to jump into the fun and am looking at Raidentech.com. I ALMOST bought the Goldeagle Herobird but you guys have convinced me otherwise. Who do I need to ask for when calling to get the deal you got? I want to order some parts too because I'm sure I'll need them. Order another set of wings, prop, and battery? Thanks to everyone who posted on this string. It's been helpful in the decision.

The 380 and prop in the pictures in the link you posted certainly look the same as a standard Speed 400, so I'm guessing any of them would be fine. Worst case, Hobby Lobby has prop adapters.

What is the rating on your ESC? It's actually the battery pack, or voltage of the pack, that drives the amps being drawn, so if you stick with your existing packs that shouldn't be an issue. Most Speed 400 (380) applications are about 12 to 14 amps maximum.
Dennis-