Question: Has anyone taped their hinge gaps? I have white monokote on a plane with white monokote already at the gaps, and would like to tape the gaps but have never done so. Do you tape just one side? If so, is there a preference as to underside or top side, and is their a recommended width and any tips on applying it? I'm thinking of maybe cutting 3/4" strips a touch shorter than the required length, creasing the center, and tack ironing the crease section along the gap first, then ironing the rest from the center out to the edges.

What you have suggested will work fine. Or you can go to a medical supply and pick up a couple rolls of Blemderm which is a very thin flexible tape that can be used on the bottom side.

Back before  3d  and ca hinges , we sealed gaps with Monocote .And never had problems with flutter or hinge failure.

I just finished sealing the hinge lines on an ARF that I recovered using Ultracote.

Top or bottom? I let the covering scheme dictate whether I covered the top or bottom. In my case the bottom of the wings, ailerons, stab and elevators had the same base color - midnight blue. So, the aileron/wing gap and elevator/stab gaps were sealed with matching blue covering. The top scheme has yellow for the ailerons and elevators but the wing and stab trailing edges are covered in orange. The rudder and fin (starting at the bottom) are blue,orange and white. I used individual pieces to cover each section matching the lines as best I could. Of course, I already had an inventory of film scraps from the original covering making this selection easy.

If you don't have matching scraps grab some clear Monokote. Forget the light weight stuff because it's difficult to handle.

On tape? Yea, works but if you fly glow the exhaust spooge will get in under the adhesive and a mess will result.

Installation?

Cut a piece as long as the hinge gap (minus 1/8" or so) and 3/8 - 5/8 wide. Whatever width fits the "V" without overlapping the bottom of the surface too much. Pull the backing off the covering. Crease the covering into a long "V" with the adhesive to the outside.

Open up the seam to its fullest extent. Let's say for argument that you're covering the bottom seam. Remove the servo control rods. Open the control surface toward the top as wide as easily allowed and tape it open.

Position the seal trim into the hinge gap. Use an old credit card / hotel room card / piece of stiff card board and seat the bottom of the "V" into the seam. With your iron on low heat (enough to activate the glue) start applying the trim piece to one side of the seam. Do the whole length before doing the other side of the seam. Repeat on the other side. Turn the heat up to full shrink heat and go over the entire seal to make sure that the adhesive if FULLY activated. Roll any exposed trim over the trailing edge and control surface.

Repeat for the rest.

HTH

I think HighPlains had the right idea in his post above.

I used a lot of clear ultracote on the bottom side until someone suggested using the Blenderm tape, so I tried it. I'm a big fan of the 3m Blenderm tape now! If your local pharmacy doesn't stock it they can get it for you.

I only fly gas and electric so I can't tell you how it holds up with glow, but for me it's great, easy to use, holds up very well, and is removable if you need to get it off.



Steve

What Steve and HighPlains say about the ease of applying the tape is spot on - bunch easier than film ...

I do seal my gaps but I do both sides when I cover the plane so it's one piece. You only need to seal the bottom. Unless you have some big gaps you really will notice no difference in the way your plane fly's. I do it out of habit and it helps me at clean up time at the end of the day, that's about it!
Oil gets under tape so if your plane is already covered clear covering is the best thing to use. Remove the control rods, bend the control as much as can then iron it on one side first then iron it into the groove, lift the control closed and do the other side so the covering is ironed smooth and flat. Shazam, hinge gap is sealed.

I see Blemderm comes in 1/2" widths. Is this okay, and if so, about how much is a roll? Thanks.

I do exactly as you described above. Covering is nice because if you get wrinkles, they go away with heat. I use clear ultracoat and do the bottom of the wing/surface, and do one side of the rudder.

1/2" sounds a bit small to work with, but probably will do the job.

I forget what the color scheme of the Venus looks like exactly - blue on the bottom and white on top? If so, and you have white Monokote, you can do the top so it blends in.

You can buy it for about $1/roll (1/2"), and since it is 5 yards long do a couple of average sized planes. It's biggest advantage is it is very thin, very flexible, and it holds up well to oil (not saying why, but it was made to hold on to skin which can be slightly oily). Because it is so thin, you can use it on control surfaces that are close fitting without losing much control throw.

I have never tried it as a gap sealer, it's just tape. I do use it for hinging very thin wood control surfaces on small planes like electrics but then cover it. Try it, if it doesn't hold up to oil then peel it off, clean your covering then use clear covering as the gap sealer.

Forgot to say, but you can also buy it in 1" wide rolls as well....for about twice the price...

Joe - do you use standard clear ultracote or the ultra-light stuff? I've got the ultra-light stuff and it's miserable to work with for hinge gaps.

Not the ultra light stuff. I got that once by accident and don't like it. It is lighter, but when you're talking about a 3/4" strip x 32" long, the weight savings is marginal.

I really, really like straight-up ultracoat, for all of my covering needs. So easy to work with.

As mentioned the Blenderm tape will lift if exhaust residue gets under it. Also it does not look very good. I'm an ARF guy and my first fix with covering was a Sig 4* and I found the covering very easy to use. Not sure what brand it is. I bought the SIG clear covering and found it easy to use, even on the small surfaces of an EF outlaw. 1/4" wide strips but it worked out okay. No need to do the entire length with one piece, until you get good at it. If you do only one side(especially the bottom) with tape you will find dirt sticks to the tape, even covering gets dirt into the fold and it is sometimes hard to get out. I would suggest doing both sides with covering. Good luck.

Mike has a point because airborne exhaust spooge will get on both the top and bottom, left and right. If you do both sides things will remain oil free.

I'm hinge gapping my Venus II and was wondering which side of the rudder to do. I use clear Monokote, which ends up a little on the wrinkly side due to my complete lack of covering skills. I don't mind, becuase it's a little strip that's barely noticeable anyway. I'm not going to do both sides because historically my planes don't tend to survive long enough to get much crud in the gaps (and it's a pain in the rear too). I'm thinking the starboard side receives more airflow from the prop, and is the best to do. I submitted a search, so will keep checking the results and I'm sure will find something soon.

Thanks,

Pilot's left.

Ok, thanks