what to glue canopy on with?
#26
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: Jim_Purcha
I would like to know how to use canopy glue. I guess my first canopy didn't have a proper fit. I have some Formula 560 but it seemed too runny to apply properly which I wasn't expecting. Anyone had good experience with this glue?
Any good techniques to attaching a canopy to model with glue?
Jim
I would like to know how to use canopy glue. I guess my first canopy didn't have a proper fit. I have some Formula 560 but it seemed too runny to apply properly which I wasn't expecting. Anyone had good experience with this glue?
Any good techniques to attaching a canopy to model with glue?
Jim
ORIGINAL: from post #17 above:
I've used both brands and found that when you apply it, it beads just as described. If you go over it then with a Q-tip, the cotton ball spreads it and gives a more uniform distribution. It is surprising to see it spread out and stay, after beading like it did, but it does. It appears to get some tooth from being "brushed" over the covering. In fact, it acts tackier then when the canopy is positioned.
Do the same to the canopy before positioning it. Run a thin bead around it, then come along with another Q-tip and spread it. There seems to be a timing deal going on. Or it might be breaking through release agent. Although I always wash and dry the inside of any canopy before it goes on.
Good thing with the stuff is how easy the excess that's squeezed out is to wipe away.
First time I tried the stuff, I was hoping it was easier to deal with than epoxy. Turns out it's night and day easier.
I've used both brands and found that when you apply it, it beads just as described. If you go over it then with a Q-tip, the cotton ball spreads it and gives a more uniform distribution. It is surprising to see it spread out and stay, after beading like it did, but it does. It appears to get some tooth from being "brushed" over the covering. In fact, it acts tackier then when the canopy is positioned.
Do the same to the canopy before positioning it. Run a thin bead around it, then come along with another Q-tip and spread it. There seems to be a timing deal going on. Or it might be breaking through release agent. Although I always wash and dry the inside of any canopy before it goes on.
Good thing with the stuff is how easy the excess that's squeezed out is to wipe away.
First time I tried the stuff, I was hoping it was easier to deal with than epoxy. Turns out it's night and day easier.
Shake up the glue bottle and then spread a line around the fuselage where the canopy will make contact. Then spread a line around the inside of the canopy where it's going to touch the fuselage. Use the Q-tip as mentioned on both.
Place the canopy and pull the tape down to hold it firmly in place.
Some glue will squeeze out. Use a damp paper towel and wipe it away.
Next morning, pull the tape.
#27

My Feedback: (221)
ORIGINAL: Jim_Purcha
I would like to know how to use canopy glue. I guess my first canopy didn't have a proper fit. I have some Formula 560 but it seemed too runny to apply properly which I wasn't expecting. Anyone had good experience with this glue?
Any good techniques to attaching a canopy to model with glue?
Jim
I would like to know how to use canopy glue. I guess my first canopy didn't have a proper fit. I have some Formula 560 but it seemed too runny to apply properly which I wasn't expecting. Anyone had good experience with this glue?
Any good techniques to attaching a canopy to model with glue?
Jim
#28

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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: palm harbor,
FL
I haved everything mentioned in these posts.canopy white glue dries clear and goop works as does pacer goo .it all works but I prefer some type of screws .not sure what your objection is all about but screws are easily removed and you can cover them with striping tape as well.I rather like the look and its easy accessibility.but to each his own..
#29
Use Elmers White glue. It's the exact same stuff as Formula 560 Canopy Glue that is sold by Pacer.
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
#30

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Joined: May 2003
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Hi Folks,
When you "rough-up" the edges of the canopy and attempt to clean off the plastic "dust". sometimes it just sticks all over inside the canopy due to static electricity.
Try a "Used" sheet of BOUNCE Fabric Softener, wiping the INSIDE of the canopy and it will remove the dust and prevent the plastic from attracting more dust & dirt.
A "USED" BOUNCE Sheet also works well for cleaning and removing MonoKote adhesive from the face of your hot covering iron. Fold the Bounce sheet and rub the hot iron over the sheet.
Ken AMA 1528
When you "rough-up" the edges of the canopy and attempt to clean off the plastic "dust". sometimes it just sticks all over inside the canopy due to static electricity.
Try a "Used" sheet of BOUNCE Fabric Softener, wiping the INSIDE of the canopy and it will remove the dust and prevent the plastic from attracting more dust & dirt.
A "USED" BOUNCE Sheet also works well for cleaning and removing MonoKote adhesive from the face of your hot covering iron. Fold the Bounce sheet and rub the hot iron over the sheet.
Ken AMA 1528
#31

My Feedback: (221)
ORIGINAL: Ken Kehlet
Hi Folks,
When you ''rough-up'' the edges of the canopy and attempt to clean off the plastic ''dust''. sometimes it just sticks all over inside the canopy due to static electricity.
Try a ''Used'' sheet of BOUNCE Fabric Softener, wiping the INSIDE of the canopy and it will remove the dust and prevent the plastic from attracting more dust & dirt.
A ''USED'' BOUNCE Sheet also works well for cleaning and removing MonoKote adhesive from the face of your hot covering iron. Fold the Bounce sheet and rub the hot iron over the sheet.
Ken AMA 1528
Hi Folks,
When you ''rough-up'' the edges of the canopy and attempt to clean off the plastic ''dust''. sometimes it just sticks all over inside the canopy due to static electricity.
Try a ''Used'' sheet of BOUNCE Fabric Softener, wiping the INSIDE of the canopy and it will remove the dust and prevent the plastic from attracting more dust & dirt.
A ''USED'' BOUNCE Sheet also works well for cleaning and removing MonoKote adhesive from the face of your hot covering iron. Fold the Bounce sheet and rub the hot iron over the sheet.
Ken AMA 1528
#32

My Feedback: (221)
ORIGINAL: Airplanes400
Use Elmers White glue. It's the exact same stuff as Formula 560 Canopy Glue that is sold by Pacer.
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
Use Elmers White glue. It's the exact same stuff as Formula 560 Canopy Glue that is sold by Pacer.
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
#33
ORIGINAL: Airplanes400
Use Elmers White glue. It's the exact same stuff as Formula 560 Canopy Glue that is sold by Pacer.
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
Use Elmers White glue. It's the exact same stuff as Formula 560 Canopy Glue that is sold by Pacer.
Also, JZ RC-56 re-packages Elmers glue and markets it under their brand. It's all the same stuff ... Elmer's White glue.
I've used Elmers for many years, it holds extremely well, never failed, and provides a strong bond to paint, lexan, Monokote, and every other plastic coating. Plus, Elmers is the least expensive. Pacer and JZ are nearly 6x more expensive!!!
Pacer's is just Elmer's glue...
Sheez... new one on me.... and Pacer's is actually THINNER than Elmers...
I Guess this is just another of those "pull the wool over Hobbiest eyes..." type of things, as done with Blemderm tape, etc.
I'll have to go back to trying Elmer's again...
#34
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I'm going to compare the stuff side by side after your post. It would save money if it worked just the same, even if it isn't quite the same formula.
I'm going to compare the stuff side by side after your post. It would save money if it worked just the same, even if it isn't quite the same formula.
I found the materials sheet on a UK site where Pacer had submitted spec for certification.
It's exactly the same as Elmer's according to Pacer's own description.
#35

My Feedback: (221)
ORIGINAL: opjose
It's the same formula, just different amounts of water per volume.
I found the materials sheet on a UK site where Pacer had submitted spec for certification.
It's exactly the same as Elmer's according to Pacer's own description.
ORIGINAL: ram3500-RCU
I'm going to compare the stuff side by side after your post. It would save money if it worked just the same, even if it isn't quite the same formula.
I'm going to compare the stuff side by side after your post. It would save money if it worked just the same, even if it isn't quite the same formula.
I found the materials sheet on a UK site where Pacer had submitted spec for certification.
It's exactly the same as Elmer's according to Pacer's own description.



