For the "Life" of me I can't get that Cox trainer to start, I put the fuel in correctly, put in the Glow fuel, The glow plug and after many tries I can't get it to run. The instructions aren't very helpful either. I asked my instructor and he doesn't even know. Does anyboy have an Idea? here is a photo of the plane.

Here are the questions you need to answer before anybody can help .

What fuel are you using Cox engines require high nitro 15 to and preferably 30%?

Is this a used engine?

Do you have a head wrench so that you can remove the glow head and check it?

How are you powering the glow head?

Thanks,

I will answer your questions in the order it came in

1. I am using the fuel that it came with the Kit. It's called Engine starting Kit. It's called Super Power Fuel and it's made by COX as well and it's specially made for the plane, (So it says on the bottle)

2. Yes it is

3. Yes I do it came with the kit

4. I'm powering the Glow head with a battery case that came with the kit.

Good that fuel will be fine and I beleve it is 15% nitro, The Cox racing fuel is 30%.

First thing to do since this is a used engine is to remove the glowhead and hook up your ignitor to see if it lights up. If so great.

All of the Cox reed valve engines are very sensitive to dirt in the reed and this is why I asked if it is used. Appears very clean and prior owners may never have got to run (a common occurance) so for now we will leave a reed cleaning on the back burner.


So lets give it a try agine. First open that muffler choke ring so that it is fully open and leave it there. Close the needle all the way and open 3 and 1/2 turns, this will assure that it starts rich and will need to be leaned. Now we need to prime, use that red stopper on the can with the plastic tube attached and the can is used as a squeeze bottle. Rotate the prop to move the piston to TDC (all the way up on compression) and insert that fuel tube through the muffler to squirt directly on the exhaust port which is closed by the piston (don,t squirt into the open port).

Now just flip the the prop a few times with the ignitor conected and you should hear the sound of frying coming out the muffler if not you are not lit up.

To start don,t use an electric starter use that starter spring . hook the spring over a blade and wind up backward almost a full 360 and just slide your hand away. If it goes the only thing left to do is screw the needle in untill it is running smoothly. If no pops then try another piston exhaust port closed prime. If all of this results in frustration then it will be time to disassemble and clean out the reed. But first try the above.

John

Hello John:

I will try that, I guess I shouldn't have brought that plane used just flat out brought a new one, (Always looking for a bargain and I really don't have to). I'm going to try it again next weekend
and I see what happens. Due to the fact that it looks like it's going to thunderstorm any minute now is it a good idea to try to clean out the engine now? That will give me something to do in the mean time.

mrjones-
Johns proceedure sounds about right.
However, 2 things I will add.
1. The Cox fuel is not the greatest, especially if it's been sitting with a less than perfect seal.
Pick up a quart of 25% nitro fuel (Buggy/car fuel). WAY better all around, and less expensive too.
2. If you are using even a new "Cox" starter battery, if past experience is an indicator, it won't cut it either. Go to Home Depot, Lowe's ect. and get a 1.5 volt BIG battery.
When you hook up the battery, can you see a definite "glow" inside the cylinder, when the port is open?
One more thing, these things goop up with old castor, and even with the needle valve open 3-1/2 turns you may not be getting enough fuel to the cylinder. Fuel it up, prime it, let it sit for oh, 20 mins. then go back, and re-prime, use the spring starter a couple of times WITHOUT the glow battery hooked up, then try as per normal.

Jetts

Dan it only takes a grain or two of grit under the reed to cause the engine to get weird. If you want to clean it first in the meantime. The important thing is to work very clean suggest using a white fabric on your work table.

Remove the engine completely and unscrew the needle valve, set that and the spring aside. The carburator on these engines is actually the fuel tanks backplate and engine mount. They can be run in four different positions (upright, inverted and on the right or left side) that is done by mounting the tank and backplate to the crankcase in four posible positions so scribe a small mark between the crankcase and the tank then agine between the tank and backplate. This will aid you in reassembly.

Unscrew and remove the four long screws on the backside of the backplate (these hold the backplate, tank and crankcase together) then carefully pull the backplate from the tank there will be a plastic fuel pickup tube plugged onto a nipple inside the backplate and a tiny spring inside its full length. do not disturb this tube as it must reassemble in the same position. Depending on its age the tube may be petrafied (Not flexable) but if the line to nipple joint is tight that is OK. Next pull the tank assembly from the crankcase. On the front of the tank is the valve assembly and if you look at it you will see there is a wire circlip holding a brass or clear plastic four leg star in this assemblys cup. by carefully grasping the center wire of this circlip with small pliers it will remove and the reed will fall out.

What is left to do is clean all these parts carefully by immersing in some alcohol then reassembly, any grain of sand under the read can cause problems. There is a center tube in the center of the tank that plugs into the backplate and at the joint a tiny rubber ring make sure this is intact. While the backplate is off you will see a tiny screen on the backside that is actually the carburators air intake that screen must be absolutely clear of debris. also blow out the fueling/vent tubes in the tank or the backplate not forgetting to blow out where the needle valve inserts.

Sounds complicated but goes fast once you see how it is done.

Enjoy

John

MRJONES,
One more thing, the brass or copper four sided star-(reed) is also sometimes a rectangular clear plastic piece with rounded ends. Just passing that along.
These are really great little engines once you get the hang of them, but Norvels are now less expensive, and have a carb, and muffler. (unless you buy the Cox flying saucer on close-out at Marc's- 8.99! They fly great!

Jetts

Wow!!! Thanks guys I'm going to apply that advice as soon as possible. It's pretty much straight forward and I shouldn't have a problem, If I do I will let you know...You guys are the best!!!!

You are welcome, my R/C friend!

Jetts

Instead of waiting to go the the field just start it and try those things on your front lawn just figure out a SAFE way to restrain your plane and try them thats what I did to practice starting and taxiing my plane just don't put the wings on

Yes Jetts did bring up a good point about some models having the square plastic reed but you will see when the tank is removed.

One last point I neglected is if your have to replace a glowhead don,t bother with the standard, instead replace it with the high compression head (more power and easier starting). It can be identified by a ring of radial marks clear around the center terminal.

Sure would like to find a functional glow head for my old Holland Hornet from around 54 or 55.

John

John, I drilled out a cox head, and tapped it so I could use a R/C short plug in it. it worked fine. Do you have a spare head, or would you like to try it with your Hornet?

Jetts

Thanks again!!

You guys are more fortunate then myself, you see I live in New York and I live in an apartment, (Sheesh, trying to keep planes in here makes me glad I'm single... ) I don't have a front lawn, The way the cost of living is here I might be able to get a DECIENT home for 450,000. Don't feel sorry for me though here we make a lot of money but it goes out as fast, (If not faster) as it comes in. Most New Yorkers have homes upstate, (If they have houses) but people that live in the city, (Like myself) have to go to a park or the flying field, which we have a lot of...I sure wish they had lights for night flying

Matter of fact they do and there are a few of us dedicated night flyers around. I currently have three Night flyers including the four engine 85" Kaydet Senior in my avitar which is equiped with a full internal yellow glowire system and wingtip/ tail color coded orientation lights.

Start dreamin, its a wonderful world and checkout www.glowire.com for park flyers as well as large scale airplanes.

John

Thanks!!!

That's a good site and I will look into it further. What I was trying to say is the flying sites here are SO DARK at night you can't see your hand in front of your face. I would like our flying site to have lights in the area so we could fly at night, (Thinking big here) I would also like to see the runway that we have here lit up at night it would look so cool!!!!!

Hey John you mean this:

http://www.mecoa.com/vintage/holland.html

Indeed a totally dark moonless night is every night flyers dream. Hard to get away from city glow even here in the wilds of northern Az. There is no better high than an euphoric RC flight on a crystal clear and dark night.


Yup that little guy is my old favorite. looks as though I was off a few years, memory is a fleeting thing There have been no new glowheads in many years and Mecoa owns the rights to the engine now. They keep making noise about starting a new production run and making new heads But I doubt they will ever really do it.

John

Hey John you seem like a great guy, thanks for everything. If I run into a Holland Hornet glow head I will let you know.

You should try to call Mecoa and see if they will sell you one. If they have the engines I'm sure they might have the part you desire....There number is 626.359-0016. They might be able to help you....

Or go to the dollar store and buy a bunch of glow sticks and use one to see how long it lasts so you will know how long your plane can be up their safely trhey would work great I'm goiong to do that with a SPAD!

I would make sure you glow plug is nice and charged.