Iam looking at getting a TF p-47rightafter christmasand i read that the 60 size one is a decent kit for a beginner builder. My question is i am really wanting the giant scale one, just wondering how much more difficult it is vs. its little brother? Is it basically the same kit except with the giant one needing retracts? Thanks for any advise.
Jordan

Hello,


i just purchased the 63" p-47 from top flite. I would be interested in your experiences if you built this kit. I plan to go electric for the motor. I am also leaning towards robart mechanical retracts




nathan

I put one together, it was a good build, not too difficult. Take your time and it will come out good. Mine flies well, I have mechanical retracts on it, it makes the model when the wheels tuck up in the well after takeoff. I put the largest wheels on it I could, I fly off grass. It is a little tricky to taxi if the grass gets deep, and you will learn how to "fly it to a stop" to keep it from nosing over on the same grass. I have a Saito 100 on it. No bad tendencies while using the flaps, they do work how they were designed to.
Don't expect it to go together really quickly, it took me almost 3 months from start to finish, but I can only put in an hour or two here and there. I felt it took the right amount of time.I have built a number of planes before, though this one has been the most involved. The directions that come with the kit are good, and you can always search the build forums as there a few of these documented. My only really important recommendation would be to keep it close to the directions, don't worry about "strengthening" making it "light" etc. Good Luck!

Thanks for the input. Your build went quick by my standards - I figured it would take me at least a year. I am considering the robart 591m prs 85deg mechanical retracts. At this point my plan is to glass the covering (using minwax waterbased polycrylic) although I have heard concerns about the added weight

I used Monocote, and scuff sanded it. Then I shot Warbird Colors latex paint on it.

That looks great! Might have to rethink my plan to use fiberglass. I'm somewhat intimidated by working with monokote. How much does she weigh? - flight ready - if it's not impolite to ask!

There are several threads on how to go with fiberglass and not overdo it to add weight. I think there are a couple even referencing the P-47 in the build threads. As far as how much it weighs, I will have to find a scale to weigh it on, I really don't have a clue. !

I once documented the weight difference on two of the same planes I built {Sukhoi} with one using Ultra and one glassed and painted, I don't recall what it was but it wasn't enough to worry about. I used 1/2 ounce glass and Deft Sanding Lacquer Sealer, no warpage and 80% of the weight gasses off as the Deft sets up, very easy to work with. It's great with gas powered planes but I discovered the hard way the Deft isn't fuel proof when a fuel tank ruptured.
I did once build the 60 size P-47 TF kit, it was pretty easy but I have been building a long time. I find very little difference building a small kit or a giant scale as long as you follow the instructions and don't make any major mods.
Framing up a kit doesn't take much time, it's all the finish and set up work that consumes the hours.
Do a search like Bingo said and pull up some of the old build threads. TF makes a good kit and they tried to keep them simple.

That's good to know that there's not much weight difference. I read about using the 1/2 oz cloth. I heard that it was kind of touchy to work with compared to the 3/4 oz cloth. Has that been your experience? I just finished putting the skin on the stab - learning as I go.

You would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the 1/2 oz and 3/4oz cloth znd no it isn't hard to work with at all. As I said, I use Deft Sanding Lacquer sealer and not the water based poly. I have gotten warps with the water based products. The negative of the Deft is the smell, I can't stress that enough and it isn't fuel proof. I never gave that any thought because I almost never glass a glow plane. I think I showed how I do it on my Swoose build thread. I just buy a lot of the cheap throw away brushes but if you go out to the shop about every 20 minutes or so you can keep using the same brush. I put down about three or four coats then do a final coat or two with a 50/50 mix of baby powder to fill any weave I may have missed. Those are the heavy coat but it almost all sands off so not a big deal. I think I showed how to use it on my Sukhoi 29 build too and gave the before and after weights. I use latex house paint on my gassers too. It's cheap, does a nice job and you can get any color you want mixed at the hardware store. I have the samplers mixed for me for a couple bucks, it's enough to paint a giant scale plane and in case of an accident I can just get more paint mixed if needed.
Keep in mind, the deft and poly are not fuel proof but are gas proof. If you go with latex get the exterior paint.
I stink at painting but if I keep it simple I do OK and Latex works for me.
Unlike Bongo, if you give me an air brush I will manage to mess it all up. He did a great job on his plane. Found a couple of thumb nails of the last Sukhoi I built and painted.

Gray Beard,

found your thread on glassing with Deft sealer. I am definitely going to give that a try. Thanks again for the info. I don't have to worry about fuel or gas proofing since I plan to go electric. The building has been going a little slow with the holidays. I was also a bit apprehensive about shaping the tips of the stab but I think they turned out ok. BTW that Sukhoi looks great.

It's really easy and after I was put onto it I almost never use resin except for the wings center section on planes that I cover. That Sukhoi was the second one I built, they fly that well. I lost the first one when I forgot to pull my radio's antenna and the second one when I got a huge RF. Both problems were all operator malfunctions. Those planes are a pain in the butt to build but they fly perfectly. M.A.N. or Airage plans, well designed but poorly drawn, nothing fits correctly but well worth the extra work to build.
About 80% of the weight of the Deft gasses off and the final coats with the 50/50 blend of powder sands off so they come out as light as if you covered them. By using thread or string you can put in panel lines during the glassing.