Hey guys,
Havent posted for a while. But Ive been flying my Kadet alot and can pretty much do any basic maneveur loop, numerous consecutive rolls without losing alltitude, split S, spin, inverted flight, etc.. very well and landings and take offs are easy. BTW i would like to apologize for bad mouthing the .40 LA as i didnt realize what this combo was cappable of). So the problem is i just totalled my Kadet today and since im in the process of completing my 4 star 40 i thought i would just move on the that. What would i have to look at when maidening my four star. What are the major changes im going to notice? Ill probably be using a .40 LA but later move on to a .46 fx. Will these two engines be able to use the same holes in the fire wall or will i have to drill new ones (i really dont want to have to do that). Any other comments would be highly appreciated.

Thanks,

Papa

The 40LA isn't as wide as the 46FX, so I think you'd end up having to drill new holes in the firewall, but I think the holes on the mounts themselves are the same distance apart (front to back) so you'd be able to use the same mounts... you might want to go to the OS web site (osengines.com)... you can download a couple of pages with all the dimensions for the various motors. I've got a 46FX on my 4*... lotsa power!

The plain bearing 40LA (or 40FPS) and Kadet is the perfect beginner setup. Simple, reliable, easy to tune, adequate power.
A student taught properly with this combo will learn far more than dragging that huge drag generating airframe around with excess power in an envelope and at speeds at which it wasn't designed or intended to operate.

Nice (& smart) aircraft choice for transition from the Kadet. Now be as smart with the engine as you were with the LT/LA combo.
More on that in a moment.

Three things to look for on maidening your 4 Star. Make sure it's straight and that the ailerons are set neutral with the supplied gauge. If you haven't flown tailwheel before, get some hands on tailwheel instruction first, especially if you put a powerful engine (46FX) up front. Third, use low rates all round for its initial flights.

The Four Star is a non-approach stalling kitten to t/o and land or fly slowly, but turns into an aerobatic tiger on high rates with lots of grunt up front. Great aeroplane.

The LA will be perfect for the Four Star to start with. The FX is also OK if you know what throttle control is. I've had both a Super Tigre S40 and Enya 45CX in mine. The thing is a rocket when flown with lots of throttle with either of these. Although it will cope, they really are a little too much power for the Four Star airframe which is again, a high drag and slightly built wing. Flown slower with a torquier engine for which the airframe is designed is actually a better choice. The .46 undeniabley has an excess of power, but is better in a clean (low drag) sports-pattern style model. The LA will be perfect speedwise, but will probably disapoint you with vertical performance in this model as your skill improves.

Hope that helps. Several years ago now, but I've actually owned and flown both models, also being model numbers 1 & 2. Perfect progression. And no, the OS 40LA has totally different crankcase and mount width as well as longer hole spacing to the FX. You will need to both drill new holes in the firewall for width if you use the SIG mounts as well as require new mounts for the engine bolt hole spacing. A way around this is to use a Dave Brown mount which should (?) elimnate the necessity for new holes in the fierwall, but still require a new mount for the FX.

Have fun.

Thanks for the great reply sigrun,
Just a couple questions:
<Quote> Make sure it's straight and that the ailerons are set neutral with the supplied gauge. <Quote>
What do you mean by this, i dont 100% understand.
Also when using a dave brown engine mount does one mount fit both sizes the .40LA and .46FX? If not does the different sizes have the same placement for the firewall bolts?

About the taildragger someone told me it was best to bend them in slightly so there angled toward each other, smart idea?
And does the taildragger only effect the takeoffs or are the landings alot harder as well? Because if its just the takeoffs then i coudl easily practice that on the ground but when im in the air its a bit harder.

<Quote> The Four Star is a non-approach stalling kitten to t/o and land or fly slowly <Quote>

By this do you mean i should not make a long approach but rather turn directly into the runway? (sorta like a deadstick?)
Im a little confused by thios sentence is the dash in the wrong place cause this is what im getting non-approach, stalling.
Or do you mean non approach-stalling. Hehe just clarify that please.

Im actually very pleased that i chose the .40 LA instead of the larger .46 fx. It thought me to fly underpower and forced me to use good flying skills instead of power. It might not be as much fun as the fx but i would still suggest it to anyone with a .40 trainer. (Im contridicting myself so much form another thread lol)

Anyways thanks for the replies, hopefully ill get in done soon ill let you know how it goes.

Papa

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PaPa-NeGeorgeo
[B]Thanks for the great reply sigrun, Just a couple questions:
<Quote> Make sure it's straight and that the ailerons are set neutral with the supplied gauge. <Quote>
OK. By "make sure it's straight" I mean ensure the wing is built straight and true and that the alignments and incidences are true as well. ie: wing and stab incidences along with alignment relationship of the wing to horizontal stab, fin perpendicular to stab and aligned with fuselage etc. The ailerons should be set to neutral with the plywood gauge SIG supply in the kit as explained in the Four Star 40 manual.
No
That I'm not 100% sure of, but I think so. You will have to cross-check for yourself. The 4045 and 4650 mounts are similar with the FX (4650) one's bearer spacing being wider. Although I suspect the mounting ring is marginally larger, I think the firewall mount hole locations may be the same which would allow the sort of flexibility you seek. Caveat emptor.
Unnecessary.
Not so much "harder", just different. You will get significant swing on application of full power on take-off with an FX up front, without the naturally stabilising & steering influence of a nosewheel. If you don't anticipate and correct it, there is a risk of ground looping and possibly snapping that new wing in half or..... worst case scenario with a loss of directional control accompanied by numb thmbs whilst watching your fellow pilots scatter in haste.

Be smart. There is no substitute for good instruction. If you haven't flown tailwheel before, find someone who has AND has good instructional skills to demonstrate and instruct you in correct technique first.

Landing a tailwheel isn't much different from landing a trike. If you're using correct approach technique and flaring OK, after the LT/LA, the Four Star approach and landing will come naturally. You'll probably be surprised at how easy it is to land.

<Quote> The Four Star is a non-approach stalling kitten to t/o and land or fly slowly <Quote>

No. I meant that it has excellent low speed handling characteristics, is capable of very low speed approaches and is not prone to what R/C 'pilots' refer to as "tip stalling". Just fly it as you would your Kadet. As you get used to it, you'll see that the Four Star is an incredibly versatile aeroplane. A word of caution about its glide however. Don't come in hot unless you have plenty of runway. It'll float forever, and if you attempt to force it down carrying excess airspeed, unless you do it so smoothly that you caress and kiss the grass, it'll bounce & balloon, which will follow a rinse and repeat cycle until you run out of runway. Speed control on final. Just bring her in slow as you would your Kadet, transition the flare on cue, and it'll purr like the cat who's just finished the proverbial bowl of cream.
So am I. I did at the time of my learning by cogent choice and I was similarly glad I did. I'm pleased for you that you recognise this now. It's a shame more don't realise the benefits imparted by the tools used and importance of good tuition given in acquisition of early skills and habits.

All the best with your Four Star. You will absolutely love it. If you've acquired good throttle discipline in your training, you can throw the FX into it straight away. Just remember to select and use low rates until you're used to the responsiveness of the Four Star, and use the throttle to control its speed until you've adjusted yourself to staying ahead of its manoeuvreing envelope with the FX at full throttle.

I have done the exact thing you are talking about (except with a magnum .46).

First, the 4* is an excellent 2nd airplane.

Second, go slow for the first few flights, it responds _much_ quicker than a trainer. In fact, most of my first flights with the 4* were under 5 minutes due to nerves.

Third, make sure that you have lots of fun, because this is a good one to fly. I was doing dives with low pull outs today, among other tricks.

Dave Brown mounts, I also tried 2 different engines on my 4*40. The two mounts had the same mounting pattern at the firewall so it was a bolt in swap. That was nice.
I started with a Sig Senior with lots of flight time on it , then went to the 4*. Even with the slow engine in it, the first few flights were knee knockers. It responded SO much quicker to all inputs. Keep the throttle back for those first few flights. My plane wasn't much fun with the slow engine, put in a ST G51, now a lot of fun. Still flys slow with the throttle pulled back.
I tinted the canopy black, the topside color is yellow. That black canopy really helped with orientation while flying.
Have fun, Mike

Thanks guys,
1) What is the best way to go about preventing a ground loop?
2) Do you land with a 3 point landing or main then tail or vice versa?
3) Is it better to tint it rather than put a pilot in? Can you really a see the canopy from that far up?

Thanks again,

Papa

Alright the unthinkable has happened and i wont bore you with the details but the bottom line: i need another stab. Now i have the dimensions on the plans and so far i see three choses to building it. All three are totally on of balsa:
1) Buy another thick sheet of balsa and cut it out. (This would be my first chose but i want to get the wood at the hobby shop (not order it) and i dont theyll have any kind of piece like that, but ill look). If not;
2) Build it in a way like the Kadet stab and cover over it with ultracote.
3) Or same thing as number 2 except sheet it with 1/16 inch balsa and cover it with ultracote.
Which do you think will be the best way?
And one more thing anyone know the exact thickness of the stab?

Thanks alot,

Papa

Papa, I'm convinced that the tinted canopy saved my bacon a few times. My vertical stabilizer was warped in the box, so I built one out of spare sticks and covered with monocote. Works fine.Mike

Hey Mike,
Thats the exact same thing that happened to me except im not 100% sure it cam warped out of the box, i never noticed it was warped but then one day i picked it up and it was bended horribly. Do you use any balsa sheets to cover it, or does it work well without it?

Thanks,

Papa

Morning PN..well, it is over here.

A few hopefully helpful tips to answer your questions, ...and a correction.

Engine mounting
LA vs FX fit. Crankcase is wider on the FX as I mentioned with different width mount hole spacing on the engines. However contrary to my advice of yesterday, the mount holes are identically spaced lengthwise on both engines at 17.5mm apart. I checked last night after I posted. My apology for misleading you.

In practical terms, what this means to you is go with the Dave Brown engine mount system with identical firewall mount geometry in both cases as someone else here has since confirmed. That way, you can simply swap engines by swapping mounts. Because this is only your second plane and first low wing type, I'd definitely start with the 40LA if you can, and engine up to the 46FX later. Why? The 46FX is a particularly powerful engine in its class, and turns the Four Star into a fire breathing demon when you push that throttle forward. Remember that this airframe was originally designed to fly adequately with a four stroke 40 of only .65hp. The OS 46FX puts out a whopping 1.62hp (claimed) sans muffler! I have an FX in a sports pattern model, and irrrespective of any argument as to how the power is measured or as to whether it achieves as claimed or not, the 46FX is indisputably one powerful engine in its capacity class.

Control sensitivity
I think you've probably already copied all the others comments about the Four Star's relative responsiveness compared to your Kadet trainer. As I mentioned earlier I'd advise you use rates for those first few flights, assuming your TX is rates selectable? Set the control throws as recommended in SIG's manual as 100%, then select 50-60% of that as your low rates. Contrary to popular misconception from those who don't understand aerodynamics, more control deflection is not "better".

New horizontal stabiliser
Just cut a new one out from solid balsa as per plan. Select it from hard sheet. Don't complicate the issue.

Orientation
For orientation, cover the bottom of the wing in a different and preferably contrasting colour to that of the top of the wing. ie: If you intend covering the model overall in Cub Yellow as suggested by the boxtop art, then cover the bottom of the wing in either black, navy or similar dark contrasting colour which will quickly differentiate it not only upright from inverted, but against the natural light colours of the sky. At height and distance, and trust me the Four Star will zoom to the heavens in an instant with the FX on board, it'll be much easier to discern instantly than the relatively tiny canopy. It is not a particularly large model.

Avoiding the ground loop
The best way to avoid one is to be taught correct take-off technique for a taildragger so you are properly in control of it during the take-off ground run. Demonstration and explanation by an accomplished instructor followed by imitation then practise for reinforcement until you are competent and confident in yourself.

Landing attitude
If you set the Four Star up in a standard slow approach as required for landing by it's super-efficient wing and low weight, you will find that it will adopt an attitude which will naturally three point when you flare. This is one easy aeroplane to land, as long as you don't bring it in to fast when it will float, and float...and float and....float. You can two point it, but two pointing a taildragger requires experience, acquired technique and practise. Master the simple three point landing first. The Four Star will virtually set you up for the perfect three pointer unless you force it not to.

I think that addresses and hopefully answers all of the questions you posed?

Finally congratulations on your choice. The Four Star is a perfect second model and progression to first low wing for the more confident and switched on R/C pilot. But don't let its good handling characteristics and impeccable manners at low speed deceive you. With a hot engine like the FX up front, it will get the adrenaline flowing and keep you entertained for many years to come.

Thanks sigrun,
That helped alot. I plan to fly it Wedensday evening or Tuesday morning (Australia, i think lol). Ill let you guys know how it goes.

Papa

Don't forget to take a pic and post it here in the gallery...before you test fly...(well you never can tell) ''

I've since posted a pic of my 4 Star in my gallery and will progressively post more pics there as I get around to it. I didn't cover my Four Star's wing in differential colours when I originally built it, choosing a bottomside wide black and clear checkerboard band instead. If I were to recover, I'd definitely cover the bottom in a contrasting dark base colour as I recommended to you.

a picture _before_ the first flight? That's asking for something to go bad.

Don't do it, just have someone trim out the plane for you, go use the restroom (before you take off), and fly it. You should only take a picture of a finished model after it becomes a plane. It isn't a plane until it flies.

PaPa, Sigrun is giving excellent imfo for the Four-Star 40. Be sure to use a 10x6 prop . One thing on takeoff increase the power after the takeoff roll begins, feeding a little right rudder if the engine torque pulls it to the left and as you pickup speed feed more power in and this bird will climb out beautifully. Be sure to make your first flight in little or no wind because 4* is very light and reacts to the wind which can get one in trouble until you are comfortable and trimmed out. It will float on landing if speed is to high but really settles down nice when aproach and speed are tuned in. Engine idle speed is important for landing. I try to get mine setup at 2800rpm . Also ,Do a stall test up high to see what stall characteristics are before landing. My 4* has a Magnum 46 and is a screamer but very docile at slow speeds. Great plane for first tail dragger. I only wished now that I purchased the 4* 60. Happy Landings!!!

How so phayd? I'd suggest that until someone can offer a rational explanation of how taking a photograph of the new kite influences either aerodynamics or piloting ability, logic should preside over superstition.

Hey Guys just a quick one,
Im just completing my four-star got a bit more to do and im installing my radio system. It does really show where to put the reciever and battery. I plan to mount the servos on hardwood sticks going across the fuse but where does the other stuff go. On the plans it just looks like its floating there.

Thanks alot,

Papa

Mount the servos at the positions shown on the plan. How you do this is up to you. I mounted mine in a plastic JR servo tray which was in turn mounted on hardwood cross beams.

The switch harness, receiver and battery install forward of this in the empty space between the fuel tank and servos. I made up a couple of 3/16" spruce rails and a dual purpose 1/16" ply cover plate with my name and address details attached which covers them and seats positively between the spruce rails against the natural tension of the receiver/battery foam rubber confined in that space. You could also make up an islolation mount and mount them suspended on rubber bands. There are quite a few alternative ways to tackle this, but the suggested location is perfect.

This location pretty much coincides with the CofG, so no matter what you stick there, it won't alter the CofG significantly, only add weight. If your CofG however is further aft than desired, instead of adding weight to the nose, you can move the battery pack forward into space beneath the fuel tank. However the short arm of this point and relatively light weight of the battery pack won't effect much difference and introduces a problem of securing the battery so that it won't move around, plus makes it fiddlier to access, remove and refit. As you undoubtedly already appreciate, an 8oz tank is a squeeze in its bay once you buffer it with foam rubber, and a 10oz is as tighter than a fish's arse. I would suggest you will require a 10oz with an FX ....unless you enjoy flights of short duration or wish to demonstrate your proficiency at dead stick landings.

Papa- Look closely at the pics in the instruction book . I mounted my rec on its side and the battery on its side opposite of the muffler .and secured them with two rubber bands fastened to four cup hooks fastened to the base of the mount. I then fabricated a cover that went under the side rail of the fues. This cover was split and was bolted together near the middle with two 2-56 cap screws into T-nuts . The battery side of the cover was offset with a 1/4x1/2 spacer because the battery was higher than the receiver. This positively holds the battery and receiver and I found this setup neccesary because after flying awhile I had the battery move on me. This is a belt and suspenders setup but I do not want to lose a plane over something as simple as not securing the battery properly.
When I am in the final stages of breaking in a new plane, I taxi it around using up a full tank of fuel and often lift the plane off the ground 6"-12"and set it back down carefully to determine if it has any bad tendencies that could be corrected before the first test flight. Happy Landings

Hey Guys i havent flown it yet but as soon as weather permits i should be off. I just have a couple questions about the finishing touches of the plane.
1) My antenna is being run through the fuse does it need something around it (fuel tubing, etc..) Also its a bit long so its sticks out the back a fair bit, what should i do with it. Can i just run it back into the fuse?
2) What is used to secure the 3/4" tailwheel to the gear?
3) On the four-star landing gear does the wheel spin over the axle or the axle spin from the alumanim gear?

Thanks,

Papa

Answers

1. No it doesn't. don't foget to range check with and without engine running

2. Wheel collars

3. wheel spins on axel. drill out wheel if its too snug

4. Have fun flying

Thanks Crashem,
Can i run the antenna back into the fuse?

Thanks,

Papa

Yes you can keep it away from the pushrods and servos.

I perfer running it out the fuse behind the cockpit and attaching to the vertical fin. But I've seen it done the way you're talking about with no problems. I just don't like the end draging on the ground

It is best to run the antenna out of top of plane just back of the canopy to the top of the vertical fin. Stick a pin in the top of fin and fasten a rubber band to the antenna with a boussy( a small 1/2x3/8x1/16ply with three holes drilled in it and thread antenna thru two holes and loop the rubber band thru the 3rd hole). This gets the antenna away from the steel control rods and prevents it from dragging on the ground. It is best NOT to double antenna back into fuesalage. I have see planes with antenna hanging out the bottom onto the ground snag the ground and pull lose. This is very expensive. Range check before flying with the engine running at varying speeds. Remember, problems on the ground NEVER get better in the air!!!