Well, the first question is how much voltage were you running? I've found mine's happiest around 5-ish V or so...a 4-cell NiCd works nicely.

Though I haven't tested water in mine, it wouldn't shock me if you get a faster flow rate with the thinner liquid as well...hrmm..worth considering/checking.

Ok, first of all, that right there is funny. *lol*

Eh...hard to describe, really...but yeah, it shouldn't look like a straw by any means. yes, you want a constant flow, but you probably want to be down about as low/slow as you can be while still having a constant flow.

And yes, the muffler nipple and muffler pressure will also restrict things a bit, ime.

Don't use a jamnut.

Here's what i do:

Drill a 1/4" hole in the hardwood where you want the "1/4-20 high performance metering bolt" to go.
Thread in a METAL 1/4-20 bolt. Run it in and out a time or two.
Remove it, and soak the hole with its new threads in thin CA.
Now you should just be able to run a 1/4-20 NYLON wing bolt in there, and call it good. Remember, this isn't a bolt we'll be removing and reinstalling constantly, so threading it into the wood will work fine.



Don't forget to have that metering system on the INTAKE side of the pump. Start the pump, run the bolt down to where there's NO flow, and then back it out JUSt enough to get a steady flow of smoke fluid. That'll make a decent starting point, and you can tune from there.

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Ditto

As for flow, it's doesn't take much, but the only way to know is to hook it up and try it.

And gb is also correct in saying that oil will flow more slowly than water

ok i agree on everything yall have said in regards to the fluid flow and oil flowing slower and stuff. refresh my memory on NiCD batteries...its 1.2 volts per cell, right...i used a a 7.2 volt battery so looks like it was a 6 cell (too much juice?). i only use lipos in my cars and plane and dont know a whole lot about nicd/nimh batteries. cant i buy nicd battery packs at radio shack and what should i look for besides voltage. seems they may be cheaper from there.

i did install that high performance metering valve (u should patent that!) on the intake side as instructed in earlier posts. also thats a good idea on putting the CA inside the wooden threads. thatll make the threads hard and not tend to strip out. hopefully i didnt drill the hole too big for a 1/4-20 screw.

yall have been a big help and i appreciate it all. like i said this is my first nitro plane and my other plane is a RTF. im new to the whole building thing. theres a lot of little things i come across that im not sure about and i want to do it right. even things like the voltage for the pump and stuff like that. can yall post a couple pics on here to show me your setup....im tryin to get ideas on how to lay everything out. i dont have very much room so i gotta find a way to cram everything in somehow.

OH yeah..7.2V is WAY more than that pump needs, and would do EXACTLY what you describe.

As for where to get em? Eh...just grab a 4cell JR sport pack from Horizon or your LHS or whatever...shouldn't even run $20. or, optionally, if you're of an electronic bent, a cheap voltage regulator from Radio Shack would work fine...you're not pulling a lot of amps, and if you DO cook a few testing, not like you'll lose the airplane.

Last but not least, down the road, IF you happen to run LiPos on a gasser's ignition (as I do), then you may be regulating THAt down for the ignition anyway..if so, you can just come off there and drive the pump as well (Which is how i do it in my big Yak)

Yeah, well, if you did, i hear that the main body od the HPMV is a pretty easy part to replace.

Happy to see someone else getting smoked up! Just keep at it, you'll find the right combo soon.
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I found this on-line.. tubing clamp made out of reinforced nylon.

Depends on how high-tech you want to get... The utimate is Gordon's (gboulton) of course..

CGr.