hello. i just read the post on prop size, and i was wondering myself. im flying a midwest aerostar 40 and using a ASP 40. what size prop would everyone recommend to use? also, what material should i use? thanks for the help.

Try a 11x8

Ameyam

A 11x8 may be a little srong. I would suggest a 10x6 or 11x5. Dennis

10 x 6 is what you want. Try a reinforced nylon for starters...they are more durable than wood if you are just starting out.

i have an11x6 that i purchased at the LHS for my OS 46. i was told that was what i am supposed to use for it. i think an 11x8 would be too much for my 40. now, the directions told me to use a 10x5, or 10x6 for break-in.  i ended up getting a 10x6. i think because i was thinking it would be ok to fly with that prop also. sound good to anyone else?
 

Its a forty, no more than a 10-6 a 11-4 would be ok.

John

ok, good. Like in the other thread, im gonna build a collection of props so i have different ones to choose from and experiment to see what will fly the best  on the airplane i have the engine mounted on.  our flea market is sat, so im gonna have some fun there and pick some stuff up! thanks for the info all.

Club flea markets are an outstanding place to build up your "Propwall" , sometimes just pennies on the dollar.

thats the way it was last year, i just didnt get any because i didnt know what i was looking at. this year is going to be much more fun!!

What I tend to do at swaps with props since I normally have ample supplys of common brands and sizes I always grab the oddballs; half inch increments, and unusual pitchs, unusual brands and unusual blade planforms as well as noted Wides, double wides, narrows and double or even triple narrows. The variety is endless.

The full slate of props from Landing Products (apc) is something just over 300 with a whole bunch more past and discontinued.

One note on that though and I hope I am not talking too much;

Nylon props as opposed to modern Glass filled nylon types with age can become very dangerous. This is the pure nylon types of the past such as the old Top Flight nylons some Grish both white and yellow in color and these are generally identifiable by a white or yellow color.

Pure nylon loses moisture with age and there was a time in the past when standard procedure with nylon props was to boil before use. I still am in the habit of boiling all my nylon wing bolts.

If you picked up a card of these old white props in perfect condition visually they actually could be very effective frag grenades. I like to pick those up for nice old engine displays but nothing more.

John

A couple of rules of thumb to keep in mind is that higher pitch props are generally for faster planes. Lower pitch generally yields more performance at slower speeds such as on take off or slower fliers.

A wider blade with a lower pitch will also provide more engine braking than a narrow blade high pitch prop. This can make a lot of difference on landing. For example, on a heavier wing loaded plane, a higher pitch narrower blade wont brake the plane and increase a poor glide slope angle on landings as bad as the wide blade lower pitch and conversely on a floater plane, the wider blade lower pitch will be appreciated because it will steepen the glide slope on a plane that wants to float all the way down the runway.

Here is a chart save it to your computer or print it out. Its a good place to start.
I highly recomend balancing and painting white tips on props.
TIP: You can use the paint to balance by applying a little more on the light side until balanced.

ALWAYS DEFLASH PLASTIC PROPS[8D]

I'd go with 10X5 APC

I would do as John suggested and pick up as many props as you can in the prop range recommended by the plane manufacturer that will work with that engine. Then try them out, finally settling in for the one that gives you the best performance.

For this engine/plane combo, you will probably want to pick up about four or five props in the range, one each, then work with those. You will find the one that suites your purposes, I'm sure.

Folks can recommend whatever they might find useful on THEIR plane, but that does not mean it will be right for your situation.

CGr.

I think that chart should be cleaned up and posted as a sticky. Then again it would kill about half the questions in a couple of forums!! It's not a bad chart and very easy to use. Testing is still required but it gives a good starting point.
Ah the club auction, an auction, an auction, my kingdom for a good auction!!!!!!!!!!

i agree. it should be a sticky,  i just looked at the chart, and it is great for someone thats new like me. its easy to understand. no more questioning, ill get the recommended props and find out which one works for my plane. thanks so much for the chart!

You can look up the instructions and there will be several that are recommended by the engine manufacture. As long as the engine is kept in the working RPM that prop can be tested. It's a lot of choices. I have seen this chart before and it is something every new pilot should have on there shop wall. The chart is a ball park thing but that's where you start your testing anyway. There is no magic prop or size, one priop does not fit all. The chart is a great start. I'm going to print it out myself and give it to a number of people.

On a 40 I use 10x6 and never had a problem get good RPMs and power. I have one I run with a 11x4 because the plane is supposed to fly slower a 10x6 was way to fast but the engine run up good on the 11x4 same rpm but it reduced speed due to less thrust.

On a trainer I would use a 10x6 for break in. Get an APC they are a good quality prop. Especially on an ASP. It should really like the 10x6.

i would use a 10x6 prop on that motor. an apc prop is good or a master airscrew. don't use wood props. they are good in the larger sizes like 18x8 , 20x10 and 22x10. but for smaller engines stick with apc or airscrew.......RON

Gene:

I just took the chart and posted it as it was as a sticky. I wasn't sure what needed to be "cleaned up" because it looked ok from my perspective. If there is something you want me to do with it, let me know and I'll do it.. OR, you can clean it up as you need to, and Email it to me. I'll PM you with my Email address.

Dick.

Another prop that I have had good luck with is the Evolution series props. I have used a Evolution 10x6 on my Thunder Tiger Pro .46 and it would haul my Tower Trainer vertical from the ground to at least a couple hundred feet. I was really impressed with this combo. Only downside I have seen with the Evolution props is that they are not balanced well from the factory but with a little paitience they turn out to be very good props.

Hi!
From personal experience , both helping several newbies and having raced in Q-500 pylon with the Kyosho .40 engine (same as the ASP .40) the ASP .40 is one of the most powerful sport engines on the market today.
If its the new version that came along 5-7 years ago.
That engine can easily swing a 12x6 prop using 15% nitro. I was quite stunned when I first saw that a few years ago.
For a Q-500 racer a 10x6 RAM or Graupner Cam-prop is the best prop! The ASP .40 will swing those props att around 14600rpm using just 80/20 fuel and a Nova Rossi 4 or 4A glowplug (one head shim removed).
Using 10-15% nitro do not remove the head shim!

For a high winged trainer a 11x6,12x4 or 12x6 prop (APC, RAM or Graupner Cam-Prop) is more suitable (at sea level).
10x6,11x4 or 11x5 are too small props for a high winged trainer if best preformance is what you are looking for

i've got a os flat twin 160. puttin it on a sig 1/4 scale cub.
so said anything from 16" to 20" should work.
can anybody with a cub get any closer than that.

thanx

I fly 11 x 5 props on 40 size engines for control line precision aerobatics. Best thing is to get too many props and try out different brands around the size you think will work. The right prop can make a tremendous difference in how the engines acts in flight and how well it flies that particular airplane.

ken, how about posting the prop chart as a sticky here in beginners?