field box recommendations
#1
Thread Starter
Member
I am getting close to finishing my first build (sig LT-40) and am beginning to think about buying a field box and the equipment you would normally need in it.
Does anyone have any recommendations as to what they like?
What equipment is necessary? What is optional but nice to have?
Also, I notice that some kits include an electrical panel which I assume is for the battery. What is this for and do you need it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Joe<br type="_moz" />
Does anyone have any recommendations as to what they like?
What equipment is necessary? What is optional but nice to have?
Also, I notice that some kits include an electrical panel which I assume is for the battery. What is this for and do you need it?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Joe<br type="_moz" />
#2
Senior Member
Joe, welcome to the hobby.
You want a box with the electrical panel, a 7mah gel cell 12V battery (get them on Ebay for half the price of the hobby shops). You need a starter, an inexpensive one will be fine for that plane/engine. Irecommend the self powered Glow sticks, ones with the meter in the handle. I've used the glow starter that plugs into the panel, but after a brain fart the other day, I plugged into the starter jacks and Poof, there went $8 for a blown plug. The electric fuel pumps are nice, but a hand pump works well also. This is the minimum to get you in the air. Don't waste money on a box with the saddle to put a plane on, the planes never fit. My box is an old one that I got second hand and it has a power fuel pump and shelf for a gallon jug. There are two drawers that I carry a spare glow plug and glow plug wrench in, along with a tach and loaded voltmeter for checking the RX battery. I also have some other stuff, but it isn't necessary. You want your box to be light. Don't make it into a tool box, that you have to carry to the flight line every time. There are a number of different approaches to field boxes, a day at the club field will give you an idea of what works. Then you can decide what you like best.
Now for the standard advise to the new guy. Join the local club. Let them teach you how to fly, and the guys will be a great source of information and advise. Someone to help you tune the engine the first time will let you enjoy the hobby quicker. An instructor on the buddy box is a must. The simulators are good, but not real life. Your first flight will be short without a full checkout of the plane and controls by an experienced guy, and without an instructor on the buddy box. You are located in a hot bed of RC flying, so finding a club with guys to help will not be a problem. Check the AMA web site for club information. I would be surprised if there were not three or four clubs in your area.
Don
You want a box with the electrical panel, a 7mah gel cell 12V battery (get them on Ebay for half the price of the hobby shops). You need a starter, an inexpensive one will be fine for that plane/engine. Irecommend the self powered Glow sticks, ones with the meter in the handle. I've used the glow starter that plugs into the panel, but after a brain fart the other day, I plugged into the starter jacks and Poof, there went $8 for a blown plug. The electric fuel pumps are nice, but a hand pump works well also. This is the minimum to get you in the air. Don't waste money on a box with the saddle to put a plane on, the planes never fit. My box is an old one that I got second hand and it has a power fuel pump and shelf for a gallon jug. There are two drawers that I carry a spare glow plug and glow plug wrench in, along with a tach and loaded voltmeter for checking the RX battery. I also have some other stuff, but it isn't necessary. You want your box to be light. Don't make it into a tool box, that you have to carry to the flight line every time. There are a number of different approaches to field boxes, a day at the club field will give you an idea of what works. Then you can decide what you like best.
Now for the standard advise to the new guy. Join the local club. Let them teach you how to fly, and the guys will be a great source of information and advise. Someone to help you tune the engine the first time will let you enjoy the hobby quicker. An instructor on the buddy box is a must. The simulators are good, but not real life. Your first flight will be short without a full checkout of the plane and controls by an experienced guy, and without an instructor on the buddy box. You are located in a hot bed of RC flying, so finding a club with guys to help will not be a problem. Check the AMA web site for club information. I would be surprised if there were not three or four clubs in your area.
Don
#3

My Feedback: (1)
Keep it simple and avoid the power panel which is not neccessary in most cases. There is no need to lug a flight box battery around.
Full portable: starter, ignitor and manual fuel pump is by far the best way to go and most folks eventurally do exactly that eventually anyway.
Full portable: starter, ignitor and manual fuel pump is by far the best way to go and most folks eventurally do exactly that eventually anyway.
#4
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From: Winston-Salem, NC,
Required:
Glow ignitor. I use a hot shot type rechargeable.
Fuel and pump. I use a manual pump that velcro's to the side of the gallon fuel jug.
Chicken stick.
Extra wing attachments (either rubber bands or nylon bolts)
Windex and paper towels for cleanup.
Nice to have:
Electric starter. I use the starter with the battery attached to the bottom of it.
Extra glow plugs and glow plug wrench.
Extra prop and prop wrench. I use a 4 way prop/glow driver wrench.
Whatever screw/nut driver to remove/replace the spinner.
Volt meter to test how much power is left in the receiver battery. I use an expanded scale voltmeter.
Field charger. I have one. The only time I use it is if I am at the field all day long.
Things to leave at home:
CA and any other repair stuff. If it is damaged enough to need glue for repair, pack it up. Check it more thoroughly for damage at home. The only "repair" item I might have in my box is clear packing tape to cover a hole or lifting seam until I get home.
Of course this assumes that you are flying glow, not electric.
Glow ignitor. I use a hot shot type rechargeable.
Fuel and pump. I use a manual pump that velcro's to the side of the gallon fuel jug.
Chicken stick.
Extra wing attachments (either rubber bands or nylon bolts)
Windex and paper towels for cleanup.
Nice to have:
Electric starter. I use the starter with the battery attached to the bottom of it.
Extra glow plugs and glow plug wrench.
Extra prop and prop wrench. I use a 4 way prop/glow driver wrench.
Whatever screw/nut driver to remove/replace the spinner.
Volt meter to test how much power is left in the receiver battery. I use an expanded scale voltmeter.
Field charger. I have one. The only time I use it is if I am at the field all day long.
Things to leave at home:
CA and any other repair stuff. If it is damaged enough to need glue for repair, pack it up. Check it more thoroughly for damage at home. The only "repair" item I might have in my box is clear packing tape to cover a hole or lifting seam until I get home.
Of course this assumes that you are flying glow, not electric.
#5

My Feedback: (1)
Joe, the tendency of the new guy is to buy every gadget the local hobby shop or tower shoves at them. But if you check what the experienced life long modeler brings to the flight line, you will find very little that is not needed, because we got tired of carrying the excess stuff around.
As John shows in his post, a simple fueling system with a manual pump - personally I like a good peristaltic pump that allows you to keep track of the amount of fuel you used on the previous flight by counting the number of crank turns.
Then a glow plug system, there are many to chose from. Finally, a starter with the battery mounted to it like the one John showed. 18 Volts John, that will turn with some real enthusiasm. I built my first one almost 30 years ago with a couple nicad car packs, but there are also many commercial ones available today. Then make a simple small lightweight box or tray to hold the transmitter, starter, and plug driver so you can carry the airplane in one hand, and everything else in the other.
Back in your pit area, you need the cleaning supplies, fueling system, and tool box. You don't have enough tools until you are not borrowing lots of stuff. You have too many tools when everyone is borrowing your stuff. Finally, take along the odds and ends to do minor repairs, replace lost wheel collars, broken props and the like. Keep flying and you will soon find a balance of what works.
As John shows in his post, a simple fueling system with a manual pump - personally I like a good peristaltic pump that allows you to keep track of the amount of fuel you used on the previous flight by counting the number of crank turns.
Then a glow plug system, there are many to chose from. Finally, a starter with the battery mounted to it like the one John showed. 18 Volts John, that will turn with some real enthusiasm. I built my first one almost 30 years ago with a couple nicad car packs, but there are also many commercial ones available today. Then make a simple small lightweight box or tray to hold the transmitter, starter, and plug driver so you can carry the airplane in one hand, and everything else in the other.
Back in your pit area, you need the cleaning supplies, fueling system, and tool box. You don't have enough tools until you are not borrowing lots of stuff. You have too many tools when everyone is borrowing your stuff. Finally, take along the odds and ends to do minor repairs, replace lost wheel collars, broken props and the like. Keep flying and you will soon find a balance of what works.
#6
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
Bought this at Home Depot for about $20 www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware-Tool-Storage/Husky/h_d1/N-5yc1vZarixZrd/R-202018012/h_d2/ProductDisplay
I use a chicken stick instead of an electric starter. It holds my transmitter just fine, rubber bands, props, screwdrivers, and everything I need right now for the trainer I'm flying.<br type="_moz" />
I use a chicken stick instead of an electric starter. It holds my transmitter just fine, rubber bands, props, screwdrivers, and everything I need right now for the trainer I'm flying.<br type="_moz" />
#7
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From: OZark,
MO
HI.
Flight boxes are highly personal I guess. I help a lot of new guys so I carry a lot of stuff. Here is a link to a coroplast box. As it is a SPAD changes are encouraged!
http://www.spadtothebone.com/freeplans.htm
Besides, your local politition didn't want that sign anyway[>:]
Flight boxes are highly personal I guess. I help a lot of new guys so I carry a lot of stuff. Here is a link to a coroplast box. As it is a SPAD changes are encouraged!
http://www.spadtothebone.com/freeplans.htm
Besides, your local politition didn't want that sign anyway[>:]
#8

My Feedback: (1)
I use a Sig Field Boss...holds a lot of stuff including doubling as a charging station for my LiPo's.
http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGBX001.html
http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGBX001.html
#9
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From: Fulton,
NY
Try to keep your field box to a minimum. If you're like most of us, you'll notice that more and more stuff (that you never use) ends up getting tossed in until the box weighs a ton. Then we clean it out, just to get to the field and need something that we just emptied out of it!
#10
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From: North Branch,
MN
What i use is a Stanley Utility box on wheels from walmart. I cut out a spot on the front for the power pannel and tied the battery down inside the bottom compartment in the back middle and I store my air and heli fuel in there, the Fuel pumps are screwed to the sliding door the covers the compartment with the fuel lines going through the door. on the top is where I store my starter, glow ignitor, wrenches, allen wrenches and whatever else tools and misc I have. The box was like $20 from walmart, its a little on the cheap side but there are much nicer ones at menards and probably lowes. Trying to get pictures but my camera isnt working for some reason.
#12
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From: Orlando, FL
It is very personal, like your planes are. Sometimes even a statement at the field.
Mine is beautiful, the main thing is to keep it light. Have a separate tool box which you will leave in your car.
Mine is beautiful, the main thing is to keep it light. Have a separate tool box which you will leave in your car.
#13

My Feedback: (1)
Whatever type box you decide on think real hard about going full portable and no power panel or big flight box battery.
I have set up many portable starters using many different types of batterys but votage is king. With just an inexpensive starter you can have the best performing starter at the field for cheap.
These are my latest setups a ten dollar 18volt battery, yes ten bucks on sale at Harbour Freight with just a block of balsa RTV,d (Silicon seal) to the battery and the starter the starter side is carved concave for the starter. Rock solid and a super starter.
John
I have set up many portable starters using many different types of batterys but votage is king. With just an inexpensive starter you can have the best performing starter at the field for cheap.
These are my latest setups a ten dollar 18volt battery, yes ten bucks on sale at Harbour Freight with just a block of balsa RTV,d (Silicon seal) to the battery and the starter the starter side is carved concave for the starter. Rock solid and a super starter.
John
#14
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From: OZark,
MO
Lots of options! Here is a handy set up. Cheap too! Walkers can be had for $10.00 or less and they fold easily, fuel proof and cause old fart jokes.[8D]



