I bought this plane Hobbico with os 60 fp engine . I cant get it to start. Actually It will start then die in about 5 seconds. What am I doing wrong where should I approximately adjust the needle and what is that black screw on the side of the carburator for. I do not have a manualn for it. Can someone please help.

Fed

Pilot, due yourself a huge favor, take your plane and go to your local club and ask for help. It'll be much easier for you to learn if someone shows you in person then trying to explain things here.

Nearly all RC engines use fairly simple, suction type carbs. A few of the very expensive engines use fuel pumps and/or regulators.

The OS .61FP is an entry level engine with a very simple, "air bleed" carb. The large needle valve controls the fuel mixture for high speed running. As you throttle down, air is closed off reducing power. There is no mixture adjustment as you throttle back as there is on more expensive engines. You do get some since the reduced carb throat size gives less suction for less fuel draw. DEspite this, the mixture is too rich at idle for the engine to run well so an additional port for more air was added to the carb. This is called the "air bleed" hole. As the rotating carb drum gets very nearly closed, it opens the air bleed hole making the idle mixture leaner. You adjust the size of this hole to set your idle.

Looking at the front of the carb, there is a small hole right in the center. This is the air bleed hole. The screw on the side with the spring on it is the adjustment screw. A good rule for a starting setting is the screw should cover half the air bleed hole. You need to look in the hole and change the screw so it is half way across the hole.

You will need good fuel and a good glow plug. RC fuel contains alcohol which absorbs moisture fron the air. Old fuel may not run well. I have had people come up with fuel they have had in their garage for 3 years. If yours is like this, toss it and buy a new gallon.

Make sure the glow plug is good. Just because it glows does not mean it is good. It is platinum and is a catalyst just like the catalytic converter on your car. The element can become coated and contaminated and will not ignite the fuel after the battery is removed. if your engine has been sitting a long time, get a new plug. An OS A-3 or some other sport RC plug will do.

Next, open the high speed needle, the big one about 3 turns. Set the carb about a quarter open and try to start the engine.

Given a good plug, fresh fuel and the air bleed set half way, it ought to start. After you do get it running, leave the battery on and run it up to full power. Turn the big needle valve in until the engine peake, then open the needle about a quarter turn. That is a good flight setting if you have no one to help you.

You really need to check with the local club and get some expert assistance.

First, your best bet would be to find someone to help you with the engine AND with learning to fly. This is not as easy as you might think.

You can also do a "search" for "engine break-in" or something like that. You should find a lot of helpful info.

But you can start by trying this if you want: turn the needle valve all the way in (clockwise), just until it stops. Tightening it too much can ruin the needle valve seat. (For future reference, turning it clockwise "leans" the mixture.)

Now turn it counter-clockwise about 3 full turns. (Counter-clockwise "richens" the mixture.) Try to start it. It should start, and it should run "rich". In other words, it will sound like it's "wet" and will run rough. (This is called "four cycling".)

Give it full throttle and CAREFULLY (watch the prop!) lean the engine a couple of clicks at a time until it starts to run smoother. (The needle valve has little notches so it kind of clicks as it's turned.) You will also hear the RPM's increase as the engine gets leaner.

NOTE: Running one of these engines too lean can destroy it, so be careful.

As it gets leaner it will start to run at a higher "pitch", the sound will be kind of a "whine" instead of the wet burble. The engine should now be in a full 2 cycle mode.

Carefully continue to lean it. But for every few clicks you'll need to check and make sure it's not getting too lean. Lift the nose of the plane almost straight up. You should hear the RPM's increase. If the engine doesn't speed up, richen the mixture because it's too lean!

The other way to test this is to pinch the fuel line going to the carburetor. If the RPM's increase before the engine quits, it's okay. If it just quits, it's too lean.

Best I can do for you by writing.

Get help! And good luck,
Dennis-

I see Ed posted while I was typing. Good advice Ed.
Dennis-

umm actully you should NOT hear an increase or decrease in the RPM, it should stay just under peak at all times, and should have a nice smoke stream while flying. peak rpm should only be reached while flying

Great help from everyone. I was going to chech out this club not to far from my home and get some on hand help. Again thaks for the great response.

I got the engine running. I am headed out to the rc park to get some instruction.

Fed

Um,m, actually yes you SHOULD hear an increase in RPM. If the engine is tuned to just below peak (as it should be on the ground), and you lift the nose (or pinch the fuel line), the RPM WILL increase. If it is set to peak RPM and you do either of these things, the engine will just quit.
Dennis-

I agree with Dennis on this one.

Yes, it's true that the engine "unloads" in the air and reaches a higher RPM than you see on the ground, but that's not what is meant by "peak" RPM when setting the needle. When setting the engine, the peak RPM is the highest RPM reached while slowly leaning out the engine. Once you reach that point and go a click or two past it, the engine slows down. You can set an engine using a tachometer, just go up to peak, then go back down on the rich side 500rpm or so and it will be fine.

Dennis is also right about the nose-up test. The RPM should pick up slightly when nose up with most engines. Some engines draw fuel so well that you won't notice much RPM drop, though these are the exception, not the rule. Another way to test the engine on the ground is to give the fuel line a solid pinch. The engine should pick up RPMs then sag or die. If it just sags and dies with out the RPM increase, it's too lean. Some guys get redundant and do the pinch test while holding the plane vertically. (A three-handed operation). And some guys set their needle with the fuel tank half empty, since most engines will draw better with a full tank and go lean later in the tank. So they set it at half-tank, top off, and fly.

All the replies are good tips. There are basic guidelines to tuning any engine. I'm one that always prefers to have a manual anyway. The OS FP engine series may be a discontinued line. I will attach the web address to OS where engine manuals are a free download. They are pdf files so if your computer has Adobe reader, you can do it. It may be possible to contact OS to see if they have a manual for the 60 FP since it doesn't appear on their current list for manual downloads. For tuning/needle valve adjustment you may refer to the manual for the FX or FX series engines of the same size. I'm sure that you will find that the mixture adjustment is probably pretty standard. Good Luck...

http://www.osengines.com/manuals/index.html

My TYPO...Sorry. In my reply to setting the needle valve I should have said yo look at the FX or LA series.