Hey, i was wondering what battery connector this plane has-http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dProduct=14463Because, i'm going to get one for FPV and need aome batteries. Thanks! collector1231

The model specs show:

1300mAh 3s ~ 1700mAh 3s Lipoly Battery
3 x 9g Servos
18A ESC w/BEC
Brushless outrunner 2822 1200KV

I would have to assume that if it's a typical configuration, well, it's probably a standard Deans connector because it does not come with anything, you have to supply our own. Normal configs for this setup would probably be a Deans.

CGr.

Ok, thanks CGR! Looks like the airplane section on RCU has 1 new name! And that's me!

Normally, when you buy the power package.. motor, esc, battery, most of the batteries come with Deans already installed on the wires. The ESC's usually come with a matching Deans but when you buy the package, you may want to specify the connectors you want on the battery and ESC, or order the package with no connectors and solder them on yourself.

CGr.

I looked at the HobbyKing info on this plane, and it looks as if it's an ARF, so the pilot supplies the motor, esc, batteries, etc. So I'd think the connector would depend on where you buy the batteries. If you get a 1300-1700mah battery from HK, it'll probably come with an XT60 connector (the yellow 5-sided type). ESC's coming from HK usually come with the battery wires bare, and as CG mentioned, you'll have to do some soldering.

If you do go with the HK batteries but want to use Deans connectors, DO NOT cut off the XT60 connectors, instead make your own XT60 to Deans adapter and be done with it.

That way you can use either type of pack later.

I'd disagree with making an adapter. It's a little more impedance in the circuit and one more thing to have to check. You're also adding length to the battery wire which is always bad. Instead, standardize your fleet on one connector and stick with it.

Bah humbug!

A connector need only add an inch or less and the added resistance is so negligible as to be unmeasurable...

Since I own TDR's and such I've checked..


Better to make one connector WELL than to keep soldering new ends onto packs.

The latter is wraught with problems if not potentially dangerous with each repeated attempt.

Impedance:

Electrical impedance, or simply impedance, describes a measure of opposition to alternating current (AC). Electrical impedance extends the concept of resistance to AC circuits, describing not only the relative amplitudes of the voltage and current, but also the relative phases. When the circuit is driven with direct current (DC), there is no distinction between impedance and resistance; the latter can be thought of as impedance with zero phase angle.


Batteries are DC not AC. For DC it's Resistance.

CGr.

I learn something new every day. I always thought the two terms were interchangeable.

I still fail to see any benefit to having two connectors in one circuit when one will do. And it is well documented that adding extra wire to the connection from the battery to the ESC creates extra heat. It doesn't take much to cause a problem.

Oh, I agree fully with that, Jester. Simple is always best. Adding components, even an extra connector, can be problematic... can be.. not will be.

The problem with wire in a connection like that is that the size of the wire becomes a big factor in what is delivered to the ESC and ultimately the motor. The bigger the wire, the better, howerver, there are practical limits to that. And, a good "engineering" practice (hey.. just a term here.. not offering enginnering information) is to keep all wires the same size.

Just like a chain, the weakest link theory.. the delivered amperage will be limited by the smallest wire in the path.

One connector between the battery and the ESC.. meaning one male - female pair, is the simplest thus the best way to go.

CGr.

Hi CGRetired
Recently I was wondering why the little outrunner motor I use on my flying wing had three wires between the ESC and the motor. Before I retired I worked in the design of large air compressors that used 3-phase motors. This caused me to wonder if the ESC on my flying wing changes the current from DC to 3-phase AC and then controlled the RPM with pulsing. Well, I Googled it and learned that my little Flying wing motor is 3-phase and the current is AC. I got this info from the bottom of http://adamone.rchomepage.com/guide5.htm. Any of this make sense to you?

Yes, this is true, but what goes into the ESC is DC.

At the risk of being to technical... What is actually going to the motor is a pulsed DC that has varied pulse width and amplitude... and of course, phase. Three phases as noted by the three wires and works the same as your compressor motors do.

The pulse width determines the RPM and the amplitude determines the power (the current it (the motor) draws and the amplitude, and of course, the prop in use). That little ESC does a lot of work..

If you over prop, the ESC will cause the motor to "surge" becuse it is attempting to draw more than the ESC is capable of providing.

This is of course over-simplification of what is happening, but is a basic idea of what goes on between the ESC and the motor.

CGr.

Ease of replacement, and the elimination of mistakes.

One well made adapter, replaces many sessions adjusting connections on batteries... the latter process can lead to inadvertent shorts too.


It is well documented that additional LENGTHS of cable with a high resistance can create heat, especially since the longer the cable, the higher the resistance per foot.

Check out the values for resistance/per foot on various cable types & lengths...

Many novices make substandard or subsized extensions that cause problems... see the discussions on using capacitors for long battery to ESC runs... the problem is not really with the length of the cable itself, but rather the effect on the filtering capacitors of the ESC.

In an adapter you are dealing with a 1-2 INCHES or so maximum which imposes little to almost no added resistance and additional capacitors are not needed.

All you have to do is make sure that you are using the same or thicker guage wire than used between the ESC and the end connector. If you can't find anything larger, you can also double up two runs ( something I do for higher voltages ) to keep the resistance down.

One adapter replaces DOZENS of sessions rewiring battery ends.


Right, it doesn't take much to short a LiPo big time, ruining the pack while you are rewiring the ends... it's best not to do it as there is a much better solution.

Yes it is the simplest, but if the batteries arrive with the wrong connector ( as is always the case in this hobby ) "simple" is wiring up a new adaptor so you do not have to tinker with rewiring or miswiring the packs.

Do it once per connector type and forget about it, instead of having to tackle each pack or ESC separately.

I'm with Jose on this one... I don't like cutting factory connectors off batteries for two reasons: (1) the factory solder joints are probably better than mine; and (2) the possiblilty of shorting the battery when cutting/soldering connectors (yeah, yeah, I know we're always ultra-careful, but playing with battery leads always has the potential for accidents).

My approach has been to use bullet connectors (3.5mm for <40amps, 4.0 or bigger for >40amps) on the ESC leads, then build a 2" jumper with an XT60, EC3, or Deans (depending on the battery) going to a female bullet on the red wire, and male bullet on the black wire. That way I can switch batteries to different speed controllers without connector problems.