I give in!
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
I haven't opened my guillow's kit yet, to start my project. So i'd like to know before i do. Do any of you know of any decently priced balsa kits, that come with all the stuff i need to build and fly, i don't want to have to go to the hobby store and by servo's and radios, and anything else i need, only to get home and realize that i still need parts.
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 643
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: McChord AFB / Orting,
WA
<span style="font-family: Comic Sans MS">towerhobbies.com has a great selection of kits for you to choose from and they give the option to purchase anything else that you may need for the kit. when you find a kit that you like, scroll down to the description and it will tell you everything you need under requirements. if you scroll down further, it lists the accessories needed, optional accessories, building stuff you will need, and even engine and radio gear, by clicking on the tabs. they're very good price, as well. not that i'm advertising for them, but they are the peeps i primarily go through for everything, unless i see something at the LHS that i know i want. i'm sure there are other sites that do this as well. depending on if you choose gas or electric, will determine what flightline equipment you need to put her in the air. are you just learning to fly? if so, please join a club and the AMA and anyone at the club would be more than willing to help you. your hobby shop should be able to help you with that. if not, let us know and we can find peeps for you to contact.
</span>
</span>
#4
If you look at any of the kits on tower, almost all of them that I can remember also have the manual online, which details virtually everything needed to finish it.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#5
"Kits" ...something you would build gluing wood together and cover, do not come with all the stuiff you need. Your looking for an ARF or RTF. Kits dont include everything b/c those that biuld have preferences for wheels, tank, covering, spinner,etc. Most kits do come with the control horns, rods, hinges, pushrods though many builders will still switch items out for thier own preferences.
#6
Those who are serious enough to build a kit are generally serious enough to want to buy their own gear. You said, "reasonably priced." What is your budget exactly?
#7
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
i'm trying to keep it under $300, and its the control horns and push rods that i really was unsure about, i know how the whole motor, servo, and battery stuff works from building cars and trucks for years, but i'm new to the airplane world.
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
KITBUILDER- i completely understand what "KIT" means, no need to explain it to me, i'm new to the airplane hobby and just didn't know if they sold something like that. When it comes to car and truck "KITS" they come with all the different parts to put it together. I already have a plane that i can fly, i just wanted to build one.
#9
I think airplane kits are different from plastic car/truck kits where everything is made to fit together. I rarely use the hardware included in airplane kits, it is often too crude or heavy and as it is rarely a drop in fit you might as well use your own favorite hardware.
In fact the best kits are short-kits where you get a drawing and the plywood parts etc. readymade, but for the rest you use your own wood and hardware.
In fact the best kits are short-kits where you get a drawing and the plywood parts etc. readymade, but for the rest you use your own wood and hardware.
#10
Most of the kits in the category that you are looking include most of the hardware like horns, pushrods, etc. Depending on the exact kit, you may want to buy tires of a different size, you will generally need covering material in whatever color/s you choose, and of course, the radio equipment, and motor / engine that you want. The kit includes the basic wood and hardware to complete an airframe, but you choose how you want to finish it. You select Monocote, or Ultracote typically, you would have to have an iron and a box of exacto and razor blades to cut that with, the iron to put it on and shrink it with. Most kits in your category will just use standard servos and battery, receiver, such as what you get when you buy a transmitter, most come with a receiver and several standard servos. You may need one or two more servos, you will have to check in the kits' list of components needed to finish. It doesn't need to get complicated with any of the standard kits. They generally work well just as long as they are built according to direction. You don't need to be an engineer to do this, it can actually be fun! Did you have a specific kit in mind, or do you want recommendations based on build? The 4star and Tiger models are good solid build / fliers, you really can't go wrong with them. If Bruce Tharpe cuts any more of his Venture 60's, that would be the ticket. I can't say enough good things about that kit. If you ever build one, you will be spoiled for life.
#11
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
Bingo field - thanks for the help, and i'm really interested in like a cessna or cub kit of some kind, those are the only two that seem fit what i'm interested in starting with. <div>
</div><div>mr cox - yeah thats part of my problem trying to switch over from one r/c hobby to the other. with the cars and trucks i've already experienced just about everything i can, now everytime i get my truck out, i just try and see how far i can push it till it breaks, and its just not fun anymore. But thats why i came here to get some advice on the what kind of parts or kits i need to be looking at. I have no clue about the internals that hook up to the servo's.</div>
</div><div>mr cox - yeah thats part of my problem trying to switch over from one r/c hobby to the other. with the cars and trucks i've already experienced just about everything i can, now everytime i get my truck out, i just try and see how far i can push it till it breaks, and its just not fun anymore. But thats why i came here to get some advice on the what kind of parts or kits i need to be looking at. I have no clue about the internals that hook up to the servo's.</div>
#12

Hi!
The first thing you should do before you "buy" a plane is to join an R/C club and get help learning to fly. I get the impression that you think this "plane thing" is something similar to driving cars and boats...on your own...it isn't so!
The first thing you should do before you "buy" a plane is to join an R/C club and get help learning to fly. I get the impression that you think this "plane thing" is something similar to driving cars and boats...on your own...it isn't so!
#13
The equivalent to a car kit is an arf plane. Of the two you mention, a Cessna will make a better beginner's plane. But pushrods are easy. The difficult part of converting that Guillows Cub is adding structure to handle the stresses of powered flight and changing the aerodynamics to work.
#14
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
lets just clear this up. i'm not an idiot, i know its hard to build a plane, i know its not the same as driving cars and trucks, trust me i've built my fair share of wooden models and structures, i spent 4 years in architecture school learning how to make things stronger by using less material, everything you design you have to build a model of it, so i have plenty of building experience with balsa. i've been flying my dads plane that i bought him for fathers day, and one of my best friends has a nitro plane that i've flown using the trainer cable at our local club field that he is a member of.<div>
</div><div>i was just hoping to get some good info about kits that i could purchase with all the hardware included (not necessarily the servo's, motor, and batteries) but the other parts that make the plane work.</div><div>
</div><div>i do appreciate the few of you that have given me helpful input, thanks to all of you, i'm always looking for more ideas, i'm actually hoping to go up to my LHS on sunday and see what i can pick up, i'm off work all next week so it would be a good time to get started with a build project.</div>
</div><div>i was just hoping to get some good info about kits that i could purchase with all the hardware included (not necessarily the servo's, motor, and batteries) but the other parts that make the plane work.</div><div>
</div><div>i do appreciate the few of you that have given me helpful input, thanks to all of you, i'm always looking for more ideas, i'm actually hoping to go up to my LHS on sunday and see what i can pick up, i'm off work all next week so it would be a good time to get started with a build project.</div>
#15
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
thanks jester, i was looking more at a Cessna, my father in law actually owns a real one that he uses for business trips and i thought it might be cool to make it look like his.
#16
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,439
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: BONAIRE,
GA
Patton555,
I wish you good luck as you progress through this wonderful hobby. With your experience, you should not have too many issues to overcome, other than the flying portion. I suggest staying on the "buddy" cord until you feel comfortable to solo.
Do keep us posted on your progress (building and flying)
I wish you good luck as you progress through this wonderful hobby. With your experience, you should not have too many issues to overcome, other than the flying portion. I suggest staying on the "buddy" cord until you feel comfortable to solo.
Do keep us posted on your progress (building and flying)
#17
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: versailles, KY
i will, i'll probably start a build thread once i get going and post pictures as it goes together, then i'm sure i'll be posting crashed pictures as well.
#18
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Dubbo, New South Wales, AUSTRALIA
G'day
For a first RC kit, Sig kits are pretty hard to beat. In the manual (and usually on the box) is a list of the things you need apart from what is in the box.
Sig's kits go together well, are strong yet light and fly well.
The Kadet series are great kits. I have several Kadet Seniors ( big, slow but a bit complex to build) which fly really well and are great fun to build and fly. They are old style kits using lots of sticks to create the structure particularly at the rear.
The LT 40 and smaller LT 25 are more modern style kits which still make great flying models. They have ailerons and are more versatile than the Senior but have slightly higher wing loadings and so fly slightly faster. I have built both.
From memory, if you build any of these, you need additional nuts and bolts for the engine, fuel tanks and I like to use nylon push rods like Carl Goldberg Golden Rods (blue size).
The Senior and the LT 40 need a forty to 50 size two stroke or a 50 to 60 size four stroke. I like the four strokes as they are quieter and easier to handle. My favourite Kadet Senior has an old Saito 56 in it with others having a Laser 70 four stroke and even a Saito 90 3 cylinder radial. An OS LA 46 would be fine, cheap and a quality engine. You will also need fuel, fuel tubing and props for the engine. Some spare glow plugs is advisable too especially with two strokes.
Electric conversion is possible on all of these but that is a complete story in its self.
I think all the kits need fuel tanks, wheels, wheel retaining collars and of course glue. I use Zap medium CA (green) which I reinforce with Aliphatic Resin yellow glue. You will also need some epoxy resin for around the engine and if you use the hinges supplied with the kits, some thin CA glue like Zap (pink).
And then you need covering. There are many types of iron on covering. I like cloth covering for the larger models but Monocote, Solafilm and many other plastic films are OK. You need about 20 feet to cover a Senior, less for the smaller versions.
It is vital to fuel proof around the engine area. A coat of epoxy (slow drying type) works well.
I usually replace the nylon clevises which are supplied with the kits. These connect the push rods to the elevator and rudder horns which are provided in the kit. I prefer to use metal clevises (2-56 thread will fit the supplied threaded rods).
This is what I can remember as I sit here. I hope this helps a bit.
Mike in Oz
The photo is of one of my Kadet Seniors. It has a Laser 70 four stroke (total overkill) and is covered in English Solatex iron on cloth. Flies brilliantly - even inverted.
For a first RC kit, Sig kits are pretty hard to beat. In the manual (and usually on the box) is a list of the things you need apart from what is in the box.
Sig's kits go together well, are strong yet light and fly well.
The Kadet series are great kits. I have several Kadet Seniors ( big, slow but a bit complex to build) which fly really well and are great fun to build and fly. They are old style kits using lots of sticks to create the structure particularly at the rear.
The LT 40 and smaller LT 25 are more modern style kits which still make great flying models. They have ailerons and are more versatile than the Senior but have slightly higher wing loadings and so fly slightly faster. I have built both.
From memory, if you build any of these, you need additional nuts and bolts for the engine, fuel tanks and I like to use nylon push rods like Carl Goldberg Golden Rods (blue size).
The Senior and the LT 40 need a forty to 50 size two stroke or a 50 to 60 size four stroke. I like the four strokes as they are quieter and easier to handle. My favourite Kadet Senior has an old Saito 56 in it with others having a Laser 70 four stroke and even a Saito 90 3 cylinder radial. An OS LA 46 would be fine, cheap and a quality engine. You will also need fuel, fuel tubing and props for the engine. Some spare glow plugs is advisable too especially with two strokes.
Electric conversion is possible on all of these but that is a complete story in its self.
I think all the kits need fuel tanks, wheels, wheel retaining collars and of course glue. I use Zap medium CA (green) which I reinforce with Aliphatic Resin yellow glue. You will also need some epoxy resin for around the engine and if you use the hinges supplied with the kits, some thin CA glue like Zap (pink).
And then you need covering. There are many types of iron on covering. I like cloth covering for the larger models but Monocote, Solafilm and many other plastic films are OK. You need about 20 feet to cover a Senior, less for the smaller versions.
It is vital to fuel proof around the engine area. A coat of epoxy (slow drying type) works well.
I usually replace the nylon clevises which are supplied with the kits. These connect the push rods to the elevator and rudder horns which are provided in the kit. I prefer to use metal clevises (2-56 thread will fit the supplied threaded rods).
This is what I can remember as I sit here. I hope this helps a bit.
Mike in Oz
The photo is of one of my Kadet Seniors. It has a Laser 70 four stroke (total overkill) and is covered in English Solatex iron on cloth. Flies brilliantly - even inverted.
#19
You will limit your choices and have to accept lesser quality by staying with an all in one type kit. As far as not being sure of the exact installation of the different parts and which to use IE stick style push rods or Golden Rods, Z-bends or clevises...etc. just look to the local club. Pick a kit that appeals to you and go to the club and have them show you what accessories they use and how they are installed. This site is great for advice, but nothing beats the visual and face to face Q&A's.
#20

My Feedback: (-1)
You mentioned a Cub, as I recall the Great Planes cub comes with pretty much all the hardware. Great Planes and SIG are two good choices. I noticed someone mentioned going to the web site and you can read up on anything else needed to finish the kit. I have built and flown both the Carl Goldberg Cub and the Great Planes Cub, the Great Planes Cub is an easier build but I thought the CG Cub is a better flyer. They come with hardware but I change the controls to items I like. I don't care for Nyrod controls so i don't use them. None of the kits come with things like fuel tanks and spinners or tires/wheels. Just go to the Tower site and read up on the plane kit you like.
#21
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXJ568&P=0
Cub
A Favorite with Scale Model Builders, the Cub is Now Available with the
Great Planes Unique "Computer Design and Drawn" Engineering, Resulting in
Outstanding Scale Accuracy and Easy Kit Assembly.
FEATURES: Nearly all balsa construction for easy finishing Includes all parts and instructions to build either the standard or aerobatic "clipped wing" version Exact scale outline is taken from original Piper 3-view drawing Top quality Great Planes hardware Realistic "barndoor" ailerons instead of strip ailerons found on most Cubs High quality shaped balsa leading edge, pre-notched for wing ribs Scale wing struts, landing gear fairings, dummy engines for both sides of the cowling, numerous decals as well as many "how-to" tips for creating additional scale details SEMI-SYMMETRICAL AIRFOIL Detailed instruction booklet and plans
SPECS: Wingspan: 76.5" (standard version) 61.5" (clipped wing version) Wing Area: 820 sq in (standard) 653 sq in (clipped wing) Weight: 6.5-7.5lbs Length: 49" Center of Gravity: 3-5/8" to 4-3/8" back from the leading edge . Wing Loading: 18-21oz/sq ft Degrees Incidence: Engine Thrust: 2° RIGHT 0° DOWN Stabilizer: 2.5° Wing: 2.5° (flat bottom is 0° to engine) Control Throws Each Way: High Low Elevator: 1-1/8" 5/8" Rudder: 1-3/8" 1" Aileron: ¾" UP ½" UP 11/16" DOWN 7/16" DOWN
REQUIRES: Engine: .40-.60 (2-stroke) and Pitts muffler or .48-.80 (4-stroke) Radio: 4 Channel w/Four Servos Covering: Two 6-Foot Rolls w/Matching Paint Misc. Items: 3-3/8" Main Wheels, 1¼" Tailwheel, Wheel Collars, Fuel Tubing, 12oz Fuel Tank, Propeller, Foam Rubber, Flex cable, Building and Field Equipment.
COMMENTS: The spinner nut shown on the box are Fox's FOXQ2700 (polished). Full Wing Dihedral is 5/8" Clipped Wing Version Dihedral is ½" Decal sheet CUB4D01 sold only through GP Manufacturing includes: Two 3¼" x ¾" Black NC42517 Two 11-3/8" x ½" Black lightning stripes Two 1½" x 1¼" Red, Brown, Black & White Piper Cub logos Two 3¼" x 5/8" Red, Black & White Great Planes logos One 4½" x 1-1/8" Black & White instrument panel Two 1¼" x ¼" Black & White Piper logos Two ¾" x 3/16" Brown & Black Sensenich logos Two 5/8" x 1/8" Black & White Continental logos Decal sheet CUB4D02 sold only through GP Manufacturing includes: One 23½" x 5¼" Black NC42517 One 9-1/8" x 2-1/8" Black NC42517 One 28½" tapered Black stripe
Items needed to convert this plane to electric: Motor: FUN600-18 (KONG2200) Battery: 36A @ 16 cells (19.2V) Aeronaut Prop: 14x7 APC Prop:14x7E (APCQ4145) Speed Control: Jazz 40-6-18 (KONM3100) Gear Drive: KPG 3.7:1 Drive Set: Brushless Set 600 Power Application, (KONG5060)
Cub
A Favorite with Scale Model Builders, the Cub is Now Available with the
Great Planes Unique "Computer Design and Drawn" Engineering, Resulting in
Outstanding Scale Accuracy and Easy Kit Assembly.
FEATURES: Nearly all balsa construction for easy finishing Includes all parts and instructions to build either the standard or aerobatic "clipped wing" version Exact scale outline is taken from original Piper 3-view drawing Top quality Great Planes hardware Realistic "barndoor" ailerons instead of strip ailerons found on most Cubs High quality shaped balsa leading edge, pre-notched for wing ribs Scale wing struts, landing gear fairings, dummy engines for both sides of the cowling, numerous decals as well as many "how-to" tips for creating additional scale details SEMI-SYMMETRICAL AIRFOIL Detailed instruction booklet and plans
SPECS: Wingspan: 76.5" (standard version) 61.5" (clipped wing version) Wing Area: 820 sq in (standard) 653 sq in (clipped wing) Weight: 6.5-7.5lbs Length: 49" Center of Gravity: 3-5/8" to 4-3/8" back from the leading edge . Wing Loading: 18-21oz/sq ft Degrees Incidence: Engine Thrust: 2° RIGHT 0° DOWN Stabilizer: 2.5° Wing: 2.5° (flat bottom is 0° to engine) Control Throws Each Way: High Low Elevator: 1-1/8" 5/8" Rudder: 1-3/8" 1" Aileron: ¾" UP ½" UP 11/16" DOWN 7/16" DOWN
REQUIRES: Engine: .40-.60 (2-stroke) and Pitts muffler or .48-.80 (4-stroke) Radio: 4 Channel w/Four Servos Covering: Two 6-Foot Rolls w/Matching Paint Misc. Items: 3-3/8" Main Wheels, 1¼" Tailwheel, Wheel Collars, Fuel Tubing, 12oz Fuel Tank, Propeller, Foam Rubber, Flex cable, Building and Field Equipment.
COMMENTS: The spinner nut shown on the box are Fox's FOXQ2700 (polished). Full Wing Dihedral is 5/8" Clipped Wing Version Dihedral is ½" Decal sheet CUB4D01 sold only through GP Manufacturing includes: Two 3¼" x ¾" Black NC42517 Two 11-3/8" x ½" Black lightning stripes Two 1½" x 1¼" Red, Brown, Black & White Piper Cub logos Two 3¼" x 5/8" Red, Black & White Great Planes logos One 4½" x 1-1/8" Black & White instrument panel Two 1¼" x ¼" Black & White Piper logos Two ¾" x 3/16" Brown & Black Sensenich logos Two 5/8" x 1/8" Black & White Continental logos Decal sheet CUB4D02 sold only through GP Manufacturing includes: One 23½" x 5¼" Black NC42517 One 9-1/8" x 2-1/8" Black NC42517 One 28½" tapered Black stripe
Items needed to convert this plane to electric: Motor: FUN600-18 (KONG2200) Battery: 36A @ 16 cells (19.2V) Aeronaut Prop: 14x7 APC Prop:14x7E (APCQ4145) Speed Control: Jazz 40-6-18 (KONM3100) Gear Drive: KPG 3.7:1 Drive Set: Brushless Set 600 Power Application, (KONG5060)




