Switch- Engine Upgrade suggestions
#1
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From: , PA
I purchased a Switch from Tower and I keep burning up the .10 Super Tiger out runner that came with it. What options do I have to put a different brushless in? I either want equivalent or slightly bigger. I’m running a 30amp ECS and have 1800mah 15C batteries that came with the plane. Thanks!
#2
Check in your manual to find out the Kv and maximum wattage of the motor and look for the equivalent. An increase in Kv means an increase in speed with any given battery, but also increases your watts if you don't go to a smaller prop. That might make you burn up another motor if you go over, but will definitely reduce your flight time. It might be in your best interest too to figure out why you keep burning up motors before buying anything else. Are you going over the max wattage? Inadequate cooling maybe? Too big a prop will do that if you've changed from the stock one.
#3
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The plane is bone stock RTR It came with a 1800mah 15C batt and the SuperTiger .10 (1250Kv 320w 35dia 30L) with a 30A ECS. The prop is stock. This is the second motor that burnt I have no idea why. It does get piping hot as does the battery. There is an opening in the front of the cowl. I can’t see them selling the kit if it had issues. But I could be wrong…
#4

My Feedback: (1)
Flying style could have something to do with it. If you fly with the thing at full throttle all the time, well, if it's marginal as far as power is concerned, that could cause either the motor or the ESC to burn up.
Take a look at the sticky at the beginning of the Beginners Forum that talks about prop chart and electric power and read down to a post that I put there that disucsses engine/esc selection for models. It may give you a good idea as to what you can put in the plane for nominal performance in the ranges specified.
CGr.
Take a look at the sticky at the beginning of the Beginners Forum that talks about prop chart and electric power and read down to a post that I put there that disucsses engine/esc selection for models. It may give you a good idea as to what you can put in the plane for nominal performance in the ranges specified.
CGr.
#5
This plane is NOT designed to be run at full throttle for more than a few seconds at a time.
It sounds like you may be flying it flat out for long periods.
You should be using no more than 80% ( or less ) throttle for the majority of your flight time.
It sounds like you may be flying it flat out for long periods.
You should be using no more than 80% ( or less ) throttle for the majority of your flight time.
#6
If it's getting that hot then you'll never get a motor or battery to last. I haven't looked at one of those planes, but if there isn't an exit at least twice as big as the intake for cooling air then you aren't going to get much flow. It would be a good idea to connect a watt meter to see how many amps you're actually pulling too. You are right, it shouldn't be marketed if it can't stand up to running wide open all day long (IMO, anyway). But sometimes their is a problem and ultimately it's up to the end user to catch it before it causes a crash or equipment damage.
#7
ORIGINAL: jester_s1
You are right, it shouldn't be marketed if it can't stand up to running wide open all day long (IMO, anyway).
You are right, it shouldn't be marketed if it can't stand up to running wide open all day long (IMO, anyway).
To get the best possible efficiencies most RTF systems are ( unfortunately ) far too close to the edge, and not designed to be pushed to 100% all the time.
The Tower/Hobbico instructions normally tell you this too, especially when there is little overhead available.
I've seen the same in Horizon instructions.
It would be nice if this were not true, but I'm sure the manufacturers would charge even more in that case.
Beginner planes especially should not have this limitation.



