Can anyone give me any info on this Engine. I have no clue what size or anything about it except it was made by OS.
Also what fuel % would i run through it.
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I'm thinking its a older style OS 40 MAX FP . Here is a You tube link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5qPjzCezcA Looks like it starts easily enough

It is an OS FP and they were produced all the way from .15's to .60. The displacement is embossed on the crankcase side underneath the muffler.

That carburator is incorrect for an FP. It is a double needle type and not a bleeder carb that all FP,s were produced with. Also the needle valve and inlet bellows has been modified.

Ten percent Nitro is fine for that engine also since it is plain bering engine your fuel should also include some caster oil in the oil mix i.e. no hunderd percent synthetic.

John

Thanks for the info. also is there still the correct Carb made for this?
Also if so can ya send a link to one?
Thanks in Advanced

OS FP. Nice reliable engines.

They came in lapped steel and ABC flavors. You will want to use a fuel with a high percentage of castor oil to keep it alive. It doesn't need a lot of nitro. I have several FP .35's and they run fine with cheap 0% nitro 80/20 FAI fuel.

The carb and remote needle assembly from an OS LA .40 will fit the FP .35/.40

OS is notorious for abandoning service and repair parts for older model engines, so you won't be able to buy a new FP anything from them anymore.

Yes its unlikely you can find new stuff for an FP. But Andrew what I would do is try running the engine with the existing carb It may work fine. The mid range is a screw inside the throttle barrel.

You will need to reposition the main needle however it is dangerously close to the propellor.

Find someone experianced to help you run this engine if you are a newbie otherwise you will experiance a lot of frustration. Always get help in learning to operate these engines. Don,t go it alone.

John

I ran OS FP 40s on 15% Cool Power for years with no problems as did many other members in my club. All castor oil fuel did was varnish them up. Any engine can be run to lean but if tuned correctly the synthetic fuel worked just fine.

I see new ABN OS LA's trashed with regularity at my field by people running Cool Power. Before they get even an hour running time on them the TDC pinch is gone and the compression so bad it will only start with an electric starter. People using starters can't even feel when their engine is toasted, they just notice a worser idle and higher fuel consumption.

I don,t beleve any on this thread suggested using all castor fuel, period. I suggested only fuel with at least a little castor in the oil blend.

Indeed no plain bering engine should ever be run on all synthetic or you will shorten the life of the engine without ever realizing that simple fact.

This one is still going strong in a controlline airplane and after wearing out three or four RC aircraft having never been feed all synthetic and not a trace of the telltale teakettle effect. It was purchased when the first FP's hit the market.


John

I run 10 % Cool Power in all my engines from 15's to 120's ( mostly OS ) and have never had a problem. Of course I've only been doing it for about 30 + years. ENJOY !!! RED

The carburetor shown in the picture came from an RC Car engine. That's why the needle is positioned the way it is.

Because it's a plain bearing engine, we'd strongly suggest a fuel with no less than 20% oil content that contains mostly castor oil as the lubricant. 20% castor would be great, but a 50/50 mix of castor/synthetic would be OK. A higher oil content would not hurt the engine at all.

A fuel containing 20% castor is in fact what OS recommends in the manual that comes with the LA's.

Yes indeed and of course we are in full agreement just as I posted in my first and subsequint posts All plain bering engines should be provided with some castor in the oil blend.

John

The only time I've ever had issues with premature wear and rusting bearings is the year or two I ran Cool Power. Ihave stuck with fuels that contain at least some castor since then and the problems have not come back.

How did this thread go from someone asking about identifying an engine to a debate about castor fuels?

CGr.

The engine in question in one that calls for some castor, and may have a lapped iron/steel P/L rather than ABC since OS made both flavors for the FP's, and the OP is clearly someone who hasn't been around for decades in the hobby if they couldn't identify an FP and probably needs some fuel advice since there are many commercial fuels on the market capable of destroying this engine in the hands of a relative beginner.

That's why the discussion headed where it headed.

My post #8 did not suggest all castor oil fuel as you infer in post # 10. Let me rephrase, my expericence with fuels containing even some castor oil was resulting varnish. Like Red Head I have engines 25 years old run on nothing but Cool Power 15 % still working fine. Why is it the castor oil crowd, insists that only their opinion can be correct and refuses to acknowledge anyone else's expericences. This issue bores me and I will leave all to thier fixations.

If all-synth is as harmless as you claim, then why does OS recommend castor oil for their engines?

Ask them.

I did. Here's what they say: [link=http://osengines.com/faq/product-faq.html]"You should also use a fuel that contains castor oil in the lubrication mix. Castor oil helps the engine run well and is the better lubricant for our ABN engines. All-synthetic fuels have been known to cause difficulties in running at times."[/link]

I am sure that makes you happy, "at times".