Building Questions
08-29-2003 | 01:34 PM
#1
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From: Shawnee,
KS
Building Questions
I have built and flown many ARFs but now have the desire to build from a kit or scratch and I have a few questions.
1) How do you cut the wood, particularly the 1/4" x 1/4" pieces for elevators and stabilizers? Beyond the obvious saw - There are a lot of mitered joints to cut and sand for fit.
2) Is the fit of the lazer cut kit close enough to make the commercial jigs not worth the trouble? Assuming you have a good flat surface and a good square.
3) Do you assemble the parts then use thin CA to wick into the joint or is it better to use a wood glue or CA inside the joint as you assemble? Assuming you have preassembled to check the fit of the parts.
I'm really not as dumb as this comes across but hate learning from my own mistakes if I don't have to.
1) How do you cut the wood, particularly the 1/4" x 1/4" pieces for elevators and stabilizers? Beyond the obvious saw - There are a lot of mitered joints to cut and sand for fit.
2) Is the fit of the lazer cut kit close enough to make the commercial jigs not worth the trouble? Assuming you have a good flat surface and a good square.
3) Do you assemble the parts then use thin CA to wick into the joint or is it better to use a wood glue or CA inside the joint as you assemble? Assuming you have preassembled to check the fit of the parts.
I'm really not as dumb as this comes across but hate learning from my own mistakes if I don't have to.
08-29-2003 | 01:39 PM
#2
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Building Questions
I assume you are trying to scratch build something? I would suggest a kit for the first one. It will come with the parts all made, and teach you a lot of the basics of building. I have a friend that is trying to build from scratch and has only build a couple kits. He screws a lot of parts up and doen't know some of the easy way to do things that a kit teaches.
What are you building?
What are you building?
08-29-2003 | 02:02 PM
#3
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From: Shawnee,
KS
Building Questions
I am starting with a kit. I have a Morris Hobbies SU-DO-KHOI profile to start then I will move onto a Morris Hobbies Balsa Nova. Beyond that I have more ideas than time and money.
08-29-2003 | 02:19 PM
#4
Building Questions
1.) A razor saw in the little X-acto ur clone aluminum miter-box, and gap filling CA or white glue.
2.) Yes, sometimes. In any case a jig probably won't make it any better than careful board-building. The exception might be a dual-tapered wing. The kits should give you measurements for "lofting" jigs or blocks for these (unless you get a "builder's kit" that doesn't tell you squat). T-pins and a balsa or ceiling tile building board are sufficient. Get a couple plastic drafting/building 90º triangles (and maybe a handful of the House-of-Balsa alignment jigs.
3.) I have bult many planes using only white glue and epoxy, but since returning to building lately I use pre-assembled and wicked CA much more, especially for the wing ribs. It is just sooo much faster. But if the odor of the CA bothers you, as it does some folks, it can be eliminated. An accelerator (official or 50/50 household ammonia & water in a spray bottle) is a great help, but I have heard it can weaken joints. There are three "speeds" of CA and each has it's favored applications. I still get the occasional puzzlement where CA didn't bond so I scrutinize every joint.
My rule of thumb is that if it is a lap joint where both pieces are flat I use white glue & clapms or pins. If it involves an end grain I use CA. For the firewall and any spot that could contact raw fuel I use 15 minute epoxy (I never use 5 minute epoxy, ever).
I wouldn't hesitate to build a complete plane with white glue (I like Aileen's Craft Glue) and then coat the firewall and inside of the tank compartment with alcohol thinned epoxy or fuel proof dope. I built dozens of free-flight and control-line that way before CA was known.
If you narrow it down to a specific kit you are interested in ask here and you should get some great help.
2.) Yes, sometimes. In any case a jig probably won't make it any better than careful board-building. The exception might be a dual-tapered wing. The kits should give you measurements for "lofting" jigs or blocks for these (unless you get a "builder's kit" that doesn't tell you squat). T-pins and a balsa or ceiling tile building board are sufficient. Get a couple plastic drafting/building 90º triangles (and maybe a handful of the House-of-Balsa alignment jigs.
3.) I have bult many planes using only white glue and epoxy, but since returning to building lately I use pre-assembled and wicked CA much more, especially for the wing ribs. It is just sooo much faster. But if the odor of the CA bothers you, as it does some folks, it can be eliminated. An accelerator (official or 50/50 household ammonia & water in a spray bottle) is a great help, but I have heard it can weaken joints. There are three "speeds" of CA and each has it's favored applications. I still get the occasional puzzlement where CA didn't bond so I scrutinize every joint.
My rule of thumb is that if it is a lap joint where both pieces are flat I use white glue & clapms or pins. If it involves an end grain I use CA. For the firewall and any spot that could contact raw fuel I use 15 minute epoxy (I never use 5 minute epoxy, ever).
I wouldn't hesitate to build a complete plane with white glue (I like Aileen's Craft Glue) and then coat the firewall and inside of the tank compartment with alcohol thinned epoxy or fuel proof dope. I built dozens of free-flight and control-line that way before CA was known.
If you narrow it down to a specific kit you are interested in ask here and you should get some great help.
08-29-2003 | 02:34 PM
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From: Laurel, MD,
Building Questions
I've done almost all my kit building with CAs. Putting the parts together and hitting with thin CA works really well. I also have thick or medium around for when it's easier to put glue on then put the parts together. Here's a hint, put CA on one part, shoot the other with accelerator. Touch the parts together and get an instant bond.
Most all my cutting and fitting I've done with an exacto and sandpaper. A miter box as mentioned is a bonus.
The most essential tool I use is a stiff, flat sanding bar. I have a t-bar that is actually rather long that I use for most sanding.
It's been a while since I've done serious building, but I imagine the laser cuts must just pop together, consindering it wasn't that long ago that the best di-cut kits could be almost totally built with out any glue or sanding at all. Just pop it all together, and add glue later.
It does pay to ask around about a specific kit though. Some kits are just designed better than others, have better instructions, etc.
I've never used a jig, just a flat board with homosote (from the hardware store) on top. And I've built double-tapered wings with out any trouble. A good kit has things like alignment tabs on the ribs to keep things straight.
Most all my cutting and fitting I've done with an exacto and sandpaper. A miter box as mentioned is a bonus.
The most essential tool I use is a stiff, flat sanding bar. I have a t-bar that is actually rather long that I use for most sanding.
It's been a while since I've done serious building, but I imagine the laser cuts must just pop together, consindering it wasn't that long ago that the best di-cut kits could be almost totally built with out any glue or sanding at all. Just pop it all together, and add glue later.
It does pay to ask around about a specific kit though. Some kits are just designed better than others, have better instructions, etc.
I've never used a jig, just a flat board with homosote (from the hardware store) on top. And I've built double-tapered wings with out any trouble. A good kit has things like alignment tabs on the ribs to keep things straight.
