how about a creosote bush?

Sure We got us one, I done seen it down in front of the County courthouse[8D]

This shows the hazard of changing too many things at the same time.  If you have a good engine and you want to rebuild it you should put it back where it came from.  You changed the plane and the muffler at the same time as you rebuilt it so you are really looking at it as if it is a new engine with worn parts - not a desireable situation.

Well I got the new plugs in yesterday. The OS A3 worked better than the #8 I had in it. However, it still wasn't acting right. I replaced the OS A3 with a R1 hot plug and it idles for about 20 sec then dies. The top end with the R1 just screams I love this plug for top end power. But I'm still having the same issues. I also tried to plug off one exhaust port and that just made things worse and I lost a few thousand RPM on the top end even after messing with the needles. So I went back to factory setting on the needles and tried everything over again and the problem still exists. So I pulled the carb off and disassembled it to make sure everything was good, and it was. Then I took apart the remote needle and everything is fine there as well. Then when I was messing with putting the cowl back on I noticed a nice tear in the rubber seal on the front bearing. Shined a flashlight on to it and I could see through the bearing. The bearing its' self doesn't have any play in it but I'm assuming that blown seal is what is causing so many issues. So would this cause major tuning issues like this? I've never had this happen before so I'm unsure. And as someone else asked if it was bad fuel, it is NOT. I opened a fresh gallon of O'Donnell 15% today just to make sure.

Hi!
No! The bearing does not need any seal at all, in fact most pylonracing engines (or others too) where you want good performance doesn't have any seal all.
The fault isn't the glow plug either ! If you use 5-15% nitro the OS 8 or Enya 3-4 plug is good choice, OS 3 is not! It's to warm, at least if you run 10-15% nitro. But an OS 3 plug isn't a too major issue as your engine will run fairly good on that too.

Did you try using the standard silencer?

It would probably be best to take the motor out of the plane and run it on a test stand known to work with the stock muffler and a good tank at the proper height. Then you eliminate alot of variables and can determine the real cause of the problem. I know its alot of work, but it is worth the effort.

I know lots of people say that the seal on the front bearing doesn't affect the engine running, and in theory I agree. But in practice, I have two different engines that I got used that were unreliable and untunable due to an air leak until the bearings were changed. With nothing else done, both ran like a top afterwards.

Our outhouse door is plastic (porta-potty)

CGr

Vette- I've had a good many Evolution 46s, and a couple of other sizes. All of the Evo glow engines that I know of need the OS A3. The 8 is too cold. All of these engines will wake up and howl with the A3. I've had many hours on many Evos with the A3 and 15% fuel without any problems.

The Evo will bog down and sound like it is gurgling with a cold plug. You may find that you have to milk the throttle when first starting with an OS 8. Also, they load up with fuel in the crankcase with the OS 8. The A3 cures all of those symptoms. However, a lot of people think the A3 is too hot until they see how the engines run better.

Can you put the original muffler back on until you get it tuned more closely? That would be the best solution for right now.

For what its worth the OS A3 is now the OS #6.

John

Or it can simply be too rich on the low end too.

The extra heat of the ignitor can coping with the extra fuel, but once it is removed, the plug is effectively snuffed out.

One of the best ways of checking your LS needle is to look for an RPM drop when you pull the ignitor. A slight drop is a good indicator you've set things up right. A large noticible drop means the engine is too rich and will bog down after a few minutes.

I would change the plug as suggested, but then check to see if the ignitor still produces an RPM drop.

Dont 2 strokes draw fuel through the crankcase? If a seal is broken, wouldnt that affect the draw?

No. Fuel is drawn through the carb and the centre of the crankshaft into the crankcase. If you want to lubricate the front bearing you must allow some fuel/air mixture out through the front bearing. No flow, no oil. Many engines actually have a small channel cut in the forward part of the crankcase to allow some fuel to the rear of the front race. Most front bearings are of the shielded type, not sealed. You should get some fuel through the bearing, though not a lot as that would indicate that the crankshaft/case fit is getting a bit loose, and the crankase sealing depends on this fit.
Evan, WB #12.

did this guy ever fix this thing????????