engine/motor suggestions for a newb
#1
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From: Elmsdale,
NS, CANADA
I'm on the hunt for either an engine or motor for my Skyward 25. The book recomends a .25 2 stroke glow, but I will eventually be flying with floats, so I was wondering if I should go bigger. Here's what I'm looking at for glow engines:
OS .25LA
OS .25AX
OS .35AX
I'm also considering going electric for this plane, but don't really have to clues when it comes to motor ratings and speed controller ratings. I'm looking at the Gens ACE Mars Brushless combo kits from HobbyPartz, but I have no idea what I'm looking for.
I'm not new to glow engines, but the thought of not having to deal with the mess and noise of glow sounds kind of nice to me. Please feel free to suggest what kind of brushless motor/esc/battery combo would probably suit me best.
Cheers!
OS .25LA
OS .25AX
OS .35AX
I'm also considering going electric for this plane, but don't really have to clues when it comes to motor ratings and speed controller ratings. I'm looking at the Gens ACE Mars Brushless combo kits from HobbyPartz, but I have no idea what I'm looking for.
I'm not new to glow engines, but the thought of not having to deal with the mess and noise of glow sounds kind of nice to me. Please feel free to suggest what kind of brushless motor/esc/battery combo would probably suit me best.
Cheers!
#2

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I know nothing about the choosing an electric motor, well, not enough to give a suggestion to anyone. In glow you would want the .35 AX. Float planes require a bit more power to break the water. I have the one small electric plane and to be honest I would look into the electric a bit more, it is just so much easier and cleaner then glow. I really enjoy it but I still like glow and gas in my bigger planes.
Go sign up on the wattflyer forum, it's at the bottom of the header bar, just scroll down and click, it's the last forum here. They speak nothing but electric there.
Go sign up on the wattflyer forum, it's at the bottom of the header bar, just scroll down and click, it's the last forum here. They speak nothing but electric there.
#4

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Well, I love the glow, but the electric on that small model will out perform the glow.
Here's the motor you need: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_600kv_.html
There is many ESC's out there, but you can take: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html
The ESC is a bit on the safe side and it's programable via transmitter and Turnigy BESC programming card.
The battery can be 3s or 4s, so pick one (or better few...)
Ah... you will need a charger, not a galon of nitro fuel
Here's the motor you need: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_600kv_.html
There is many ESC's out there, but you can take: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hless_ESC.html
The ESC is a bit on the safe side and it's programable via transmitter and Turnigy BESC programming card.
The battery can be 3s or 4s, so pick one (or better few...)
Ah... you will need a charger, not a galon of nitro fuel
#5
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From: Elmsdale,
NS, CANADA
Awesome, thanks for the info! For a battery, should I look at something like this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html[/link], or something with a higher C rating?
#6

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ORIGINAL: derekmac
Awesome, thanks for the info! For a battery, should I look at something like this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html[/link], or something with a higher C rating?
Awesome, thanks for the info! For a battery, should I look at something like this [link=http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__9264__Turnigy_3000mAh_4S_20C_Lipo_Pack.html[/link], or something with a higher C rating?
Generally speaking, the higher the C rate, the better performance you will get, and the battery will run cooler.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html
There is many combinations, but I think what I post here for you will give you the best bang for the buck, IMO...
Go fly!
#7

My Feedback: (1)
As you are an experianced glow flyer I do not detect any real sense of commitment in your post about converting to electric or the cost commitment in support equipment and plenty of batterys among other things to rationalize going electric just because of cleanup.
The AX's are superb and beleve either one would be excellent on that airplane although I have not flown one since it is rare in my part of the world.
Also do not discount the added liability with a seaplane of any kind of shorting damage to the expensive speed control when a flopover occurs. Glow engines are mearly blown out and started up with no problems if immersed.
John
The AX's are superb and beleve either one would be excellent on that airplane although I have not flown one since it is rare in my part of the world.
Also do not discount the added liability with a seaplane of any kind of shorting damage to the expensive speed control when a flopover occurs. Glow engines are mearly blown out and started up with no problems if immersed.
John
#8

My Feedback: (-1)
John, noise is another big factor in choosing electric. The one swoose I'm building for my friend is going E-power for a few other reasons. Clean up is just one of them. The fellow I'm giving it to is older and doesn't want to be bringing his fuel and start up equipment with him just to fire up a glow engine. He is at a point in his life when easy is important and E-power is very easy, we both just learned that with our AeroWorks Extras, just pop in a pack and go. Some small ponds and lakes do not allow gas or glow, electric only, private ponds and lakes are often electric only.
In my case I will stick with glow in my Swoose. I have the engine on hand and will only be flying at his private lake once in a while, the rest of the time I figure Mead or Havasu at the fly in? If I get it all figured out that is.
Small E-power I can afford but the Swoose will require a lot of watts and Watts=money so I gave it a pass. Having several packs on hand is a must as you mentioned but with the small .25 or .35 electric the cost isn't any more then the good glow power. I think I paid under 10 bucks per pack and only a few bucks for the motor and ESC for my little plane. For about 100 beans the OP will be good to go if he gets everything from Hobby King, so far I have gotten everything I ordered from them and it has all worked!
In my case I will stick with glow in my Swoose. I have the engine on hand and will only be flying at his private lake once in a while, the rest of the time I figure Mead or Havasu at the fly in? If I get it all figured out that is.
Small E-power I can afford but the Swoose will require a lot of watts and Watts=money so I gave it a pass. Having several packs on hand is a must as you mentioned but with the small .25 or .35 electric the cost isn't any more then the good glow power. I think I paid under 10 bucks per pack and only a few bucks for the motor and ESC for my little plane. For about 100 beans the OP will be good to go if he gets everything from Hobby King, so far I have gotten everything I ordered from them and it has all worked!
#11

My Feedback: (1)
Yes GB noise is a factor and lack of is the prime reason I have and continue to see most of the locals who swear off glow mumbling about cleanup, selling all their stuff cheaply do soon ultimately return right back to glow at a considerable further investment.
Cleanup is a time honored period to relax with the buds as you clean up a bit. How awful to forever loose that ritual, no wonder the dedicated electric only flyers tend to be lonely.
Well having said that and involking so much anger with the dedicated electric flyers so be it that is my opinion and not afraid to say it.
Also keep in mind I certainly do have some electrics but they will always be just an interesting little sideroad in my modeling interest. I obtained my first electric in 1959 it was a Japanese free flight kit called a TK-1 and I still have the original drive system that used a fuse to shut it down and prevent fly aways.
Now the very thought of an Electric conversion of the magnificent Swoose leaves me dismayed and thinking what a waste. You will have destroyed something that is just like multi engine airplanes part and parcel a major attraction of that beautiful airplane: Sound and Yes Noise.
Derikmac I fully concur with Jaka the .25LA will also work fine with that airplane even on floats But my preferance would be the AX's which are great engines and have superb long term idle characteristics better than the LA and yes the 25 is fine.
John
Cleanup is a time honored period to relax with the buds as you clean up a bit. How awful to forever loose that ritual, no wonder the dedicated electric only flyers tend to be lonely.
Well having said that and involking so much anger with the dedicated electric flyers so be it that is my opinion and not afraid to say it.
Also keep in mind I certainly do have some electrics but they will always be just an interesting little sideroad in my modeling interest. I obtained my first electric in 1959 it was a Japanese free flight kit called a TK-1 and I still have the original drive system that used a fuse to shut it down and prevent fly aways.
Now the very thought of an Electric conversion of the magnificent Swoose leaves me dismayed and thinking what a waste. You will have destroyed something that is just like multi engine airplanes part and parcel a major attraction of that beautiful airplane: Sound and Yes Noise.
Derikmac I fully concur with Jaka the .25LA will also work fine with that airplane even on floats But my preferance would be the AX's which are great engines and have superb long term idle characteristics better than the LA and yes the 25 is fine.
John
#12
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From: Elmsdale,
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Thanks all for the replies!! I have decided to go electric for my plane though. I honestly had given it alot of thought, and ruled the pros and cons against what I thought I wanted, and electric came out on top. I do love nitro engines, and that's all I would want in my trucks, even though they do limit the driving I can do around home. I enjoy tinkering with those little engines, but I also look forward to getting into electric. My son turns five in September, and I'm going to be looking at getting him a hobby grade truck (nothing crazy) so I will need to get a charger for that, and the cost of a motor/esc is going to cost me less through HobbyKing, than getting an OS engine will cost me from my LHS. A gallon of nitro here is about $40, and I know with my truck I burn through about 2 gallons a summer, though it will be less with the plane, batteries in the long run will be cheaper. I will also be able to fly places I normally wouldn't be able to due to the noise of a nitro. I will keep you updated with the motor/esc/battery combos I get.
#13
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From: Elmsdale,
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ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner
Yes GB noise is a factor and lack of is the prime reason I have and continue to see most of the locals who swear off glow mumbling about cleanup, selling all their stuff cheaply do soon ultimately return right back to glow at a considerable further investment.
Cleanup is a time honored period to relax with the buds as you clean up a bit. How awful to forever loose that ritual, no wonder the dedicated electric only flyers tend to be lonely.
Well having said that and involking so much anger with the dedicated electric flyers so be it that is my opinion and not afraid to say it.
Also keep in mind I certainly do have some electrics but they will always be just an interesting little sideroad in my modeling interest. I obtained my first electric in 1959 it was a Japanese free flight kit called a TK-1 and I still have the original drive system that used a fuse to shut it down and prevent fly aways.
Now the very thought of an Electric conversion of the magnificent Swoose leaves me dismayed and thinking what a waste. You will have destroyed something that is just like multi engine airplanes part and parcel a major attraction of that beautiful airplane: Sound and Yes Noise.
Derikmac I fully concur with Jaka the .25LA will also work fine with that airplane even on floats But my preferance would be the AX's which are great engines and have superb long term idle characteristics better than the LA and yes the 25 is fine.
John
Yes GB noise is a factor and lack of is the prime reason I have and continue to see most of the locals who swear off glow mumbling about cleanup, selling all their stuff cheaply do soon ultimately return right back to glow at a considerable further investment.
Cleanup is a time honored period to relax with the buds as you clean up a bit. How awful to forever loose that ritual, no wonder the dedicated electric only flyers tend to be lonely.
Well having said that and involking so much anger with the dedicated electric flyers so be it that is my opinion and not afraid to say it.
Also keep in mind I certainly do have some electrics but they will always be just an interesting little sideroad in my modeling interest. I obtained my first electric in 1959 it was a Japanese free flight kit called a TK-1 and I still have the original drive system that used a fuse to shut it down and prevent fly aways.
Now the very thought of an Electric conversion of the magnificent Swoose leaves me dismayed and thinking what a waste. You will have destroyed something that is just like multi engine airplanes part and parcel a major attraction of that beautiful airplane: Sound and Yes Noise.
Derikmac I fully concur with Jaka the .25LA will also work fine with that airplane even on floats But my preferance would be the AX's which are great engines and have superb long term idle characteristics better than the LA and yes the 25 is fine.
John
Personally I would rather have a glow engine in my plane, but the pros of the electric, for what I want to do with, and the size of the plane, outway the pros of going nitro. I do also agree that the risk is greater when running electric and water is your runway, but I think I'll be alright with it. If I'm wrong, than I'm out some money! You do also run the risk of bending or breaking a rod on a nitro if you swamp it, as it has happened to me when one of my trucks decided to loose a wheel and end up in the drink. Now if you can cut the engine before that happens, then yes, you'll be fine.
This is actually my first plane, but I do not plan on it being my last. I want to get into this hobby, getting more ARFs, RTFs and kits, and I really want to get a big gas plane later down the road.
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From: ***, TURKEY
Hi all.
I have a question about choosing an electric engine for my r/c plane.
weight: 3 kg
fuselage length: 1.2 m
wingspan: 2.2 m
I should instal engine mount in back part of the plane, but unfortunately I can't decide a good electric engine yet.
I have a question about choosing an electric engine for my r/c plane.
weight: 3 kg
fuselage length: 1.2 m
wingspan: 2.2 m
I should instal engine mount in back part of the plane, but unfortunately I can't decide a good electric engine yet.
#15
Electric is Watts per pound. For performance, figure 150 watts per pound of plane and you will be good. For a trainer 75-120 watts is sufficient. Also most electric motors are labeled in their glow 2 stroke equivalent. A Power 32 is roughly the same as a .32 2s, and Power 60 a .60 2S. The Kv is revolutions per volt, so an 870Kv @ 11 volts spins at 9570 RPM's. <div>
</div><div>I converted a Power 25 to glow so had to reverse engineer the power requirements to find the right motor. </div>
</div><div>I converted a Power 25 to glow so had to reverse engineer the power requirements to find the right motor. </div>
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From: ***, TURKEY
Thank you for your reply.
My English is not very good and I understood a part of your post but I think I did not understand other part very well.
Ok, let's check again.
From your post ... one of the important components for choosing electric engine is "Watts per pound".
So ... from your post ... for my r/c plane which its weight is 7.5 pound, I should choose an engine with 1125 kv ... ?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!! correct?
next question ...
What do you suggest for my r/c? or ... Whitch one is sufficient:
1. 2215-22 TURN, 914KV,56G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
2. 3014-20 TURN, 1120 KV, 120G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
3. 3020-12 TURN, 972 KV, 155G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
My English is not very good and I understood a part of your post but I think I did not understand other part very well.
Ok, let's check again.
From your post ... one of the important components for choosing electric engine is "Watts per pound".
So ... from your post ... for my r/c plane which its weight is 7.5 pound, I should choose an engine with 1125 kv ... ?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!! correct?
next question ...
What do you suggest for my r/c? or ... Whitch one is sufficient:
1. 2215-22 TURN, 914KV,56G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
2. 3014-20 TURN, 1120 KV, 120G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
3. 3020-12 TURN, 972 KV, 155G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
#17

My Feedback: (1)
Derekmac, Great and thank you for the reply. There are no right and wrong choices of course, actually I encourage all my student to try everything as much as possible and its all about being the complete well rounded pilot, thats a great thing.
One thing that bothers me all to often though is when new folks (and I do realise you are not new) who have yet to learn to fly or even just assemble an arf want to start out by converting some glow plane to electric. This without any idea of the various challanges and pitfalls that may be present. This seldom works and usually turns into a money hole.
I wish you well in your efforts and since three different glow engines were in your choices I gave my opinion and which one actually would be superb in that airplane.
John
One thing that bothers me all to often though is when new folks (and I do realise you are not new) who have yet to learn to fly or even just assemble an arf want to start out by converting some glow plane to electric. This without any idea of the various challanges and pitfalls that may be present. This seldom works and usually turns into a money hole.
I wish you well in your efforts and since three different glow engines were in your choices I gave my opinion and which one actually would be superb in that airplane.
John
#18
ORIGINAL: Arad
Thank you for your reply.
My English is not very good and I understood a part of your post but I think I did not understand other part very well.
Ok, let's check again.
From your post ... one of the important components for choosing electric engine is ''Watts per pound''.
So ... from your post ... for my r/c plane which its weight is 7.5 pound, I should choose an engine with 1125 kv ... ?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!! correct?
next question ...
What do you suggest for my r/c? or ... Whitch one is sufficient:
1. 2215-22 TURN, 914KV,56G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
2. 3014-20 TURN, 1120 KV, 120G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
3. 3020-12 TURN, 972 KV, 155G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
Thank you for your reply.
My English is not very good and I understood a part of your post but I think I did not understand other part very well.
Ok, let's check again.
From your post ... one of the important components for choosing electric engine is ''Watts per pound''.
So ... from your post ... for my r/c plane which its weight is 7.5 pound, I should choose an engine with 1125 kv ... ?!?!?!?!?!?!!!!!! correct?
next question ...
What do you suggest for my r/c? or ... Whitch one is sufficient:
1. 2215-22 TURN, 914KV,56G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
2. 3014-20 TURN, 1120 KV, 120G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
3. 3020-12 TURN, 972 KV, 155G BRUSHLESS MOTOR
What KIND of plane is it?
Trainer, Aerobatic, 3D, etc. ?
Assuming a target of 140w per pound you'll need at least a 1100 watt motor.
That puts you down into the 500-600KV range using 5s or 6s LiPo's... but more information is needed.




