I have the DLE 20 in one of my planes that I only flew twice. Today when I went to the field I couldn’t get it started. I choked it and spend it a few times but never pop. So I check the plug to see if it was good and it was. While I had to plug out I notice that it was dry with no fuel. I squirt a little in there and put the plug back in and it started, only to run long enough to burn the fuel off. What can cause this to happen; I check the lines and no leaks. It appears that the carb is not getting any gas.

Sounds like the reeds are dry...dry squirting a little gas in the carb....When I start I choke the engine advance the throttle all the way and flip til it pops..then reduce throttle to a quater or a bit less remove the choke and start usually 4 to 6 flips...hope this helps

From RC Canada a possible solution;

http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=193042

All China engines reed Block Mod.

I found that on the rear intake's there is a Black plastic or Aluminum reed block between engine & carb. It has a flange on it for mounting to flat carb & engine surface and reed part is triangular shaped. The reed block surfaces are not flat and reeds in some cases don't lay perfectly flat against block. The gasket surfaces often times are not flat either and need to be sanded down to flatten. In some reed blocks there are 2 screws that go thru a steel plate that holds reed to surface. On other reed blocks the screws just go through holes in reeds. Remove screws and reeds from block, then file or hone metal plates if supplied flat as 1 side will have burrs from having been punched out and holed not drilled. Next tape down 320 grit sandpaper to edge of really flat surface, table top, edge of thick piece of glass, etc. Because of the lip on plastic block, let that part hang over edge and pull plastic or Aluminum block across paper to flatten. Repeat on other surface until the surface is flat. It won't take much so no need to get carried away. Next deburr the 4 screw holes as screws tend to pull plastic up in screw holes. Remount screws thru plate & reed or just reeds. Make sure reed is totally flat, if not remove screws again and turn reed over and reinstall screws. Screws will strip easily so if you have lock tite you can put a tiny bit on screws to secure & tighten gently. What this affects is idle, engine will be hard starting as if 1 or both reeds are open ever so slightly, fuel won't be drawn up to carb and stay there. If reeds are open it never will pull a vacuum to draw fuel and hold fuel at carb.

I hope this helps.

How long was the engine stored without being run? What oil were you using in your mix? Just sounds like dry or gummed up diaphragm.

There's a dedicated DLE20 forum in here: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9863953/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm[/link]

Jet,

You were dead-on, I did exactly as you instructed except it started on the 3rd flip. Thanks to all for the help.

And for your general information the DLE V2 does not have that idle lag problem

I've done this mod on a DLE 20; the write-up is at http://www.grosbeakrc.ca/hangar/puls...s/lapping.html

grosbeak, you did us all a service with your posts and explained everything so well.....and tomorrow I am going to put in my Bowman's ring on my new DLE 30 and also 'clean' up the reeds thanks to you.

Jerry

Glad I could help. I'm guessing, then, that the you saw the Bowman ring write-up too?

Oh yeah! Both were done very completely and clearly!