chadxp1

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Hello all. Can someone help me by explaining the basics of fabric covering. I have purchased over the past couple of years two airplanes that are covered in something other than plastic monokote. I assume its a fabric covering. I would like to know some of the basics such as;

1. what do I use to add trim such as stripes or lettering? Can I use monokote trim sheets or do I paint them on?

2. what type of paint is used? Name brand?

3. Name brands of fabric.

4. how to cover a plane in fabric? I know this can be an indepth subject but looking for a quick explination.

5. Pro's over monokote?

6. repairing holes?

Thanks.

tailskid

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I personally feel Fabric covering is just as easy (if not easier) to work with than film....with that being said you can do with it what you want. Add some Monokote trim sheet and it should be good to go. Paint? Any paint that is fuel proof (if using nitro) or a rattle can if using gas. Most of the fabric have the word "Tex" in them (WorldTex, SolorTex, etc). You put it on just like film with one exception - you may have to wait a bit longer (3-4 seconds) for it to cool down when heating and pulling as the fabric holds some of the heat and the glue side has to cool. Repairs can be done just like MonoKote but they sometimes like to shrink a bit more than film so stay away from the unsupported edges.

DavidAgar

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I have painted my Worldtex with Latex Paint and a good clear coat to fuel proof the paint and to seal the weave. I agree, no more difficult to use than any other of the iron coverings. Good Luck, Dave

Hossfly

Many ways to go. I find that electric tape does well with making numerals. When clear coated with paint it looks like real items. I am NOT a competitive scale builder but I despise monokote, etc. for a scale model. You can paint over ARFs to get a better scale look.

For glow plugs I use fuel proof paint mostly DOPE. IMO Brodak's is best. Kind of pricey but lasts foever. It is a touched-up derivative of a popular commercial big airplane dope. Certain others are mostly repackged same stuff without the Brodak's touch up.
Most any of the "TEXs".
Sand and sand. Apply one of the the primers. Sand some more. Best (I seldom do) run some covers over the leading edges, trailing edges, the big fabric over those areas. depending on the cloth. Not an easy job.

Most everything. monokote is garbage for the scale - like model. Fine for racers, combat and other short-lived projects. It won't last long like years of fabric will.
Takes a bit more work. However holes are not as easy to make as moneykote!
I attempted to show some pictures but RCU is doing it again. Maybe Later

RBACONS

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There are several possibilities as to what your planes are covered in. It may be a pre-painted iron-on covering like Solar-Tex, 21st Century, or Coverite/Super Coverite, it could be a non pre-painted iron-on covering (again Solar Tex or Coverite). The iron-on fabrics (painted or plain) are put on just like Ultracote or Monokote.

It could be a non iron-on (and non pre-painted) fabric such as silk, Stits Lite, any polyester dress fabric, Nelson Lite, ceconite, etc. The non iron-on fabrics are usually put down with either dope or an adhesive such as balsarite, SIG Stix-it, or PolyTak which is applied to the bare wood and the fabric applied over it.

Its impossible to say which fabric you might have without seeing the plane in person. If you can find a place on the plane where you can see the back side of the fabric, you may be able to tell if its a pre-painted iron-on, unpainted iron-on, or other fabric. If the back side is colored similar to the top side (albeit somewhat less bright), then its a pre-painted iron-on. If the back side is white or a beige color then its likely not a pre-painted fabric. In this case you may be able to see if it looks like a raw material or if it has a uniform adhesive film on it. You could even touch it with an iron to verify if an adhesive is present. If so, its likely Solartex or Coverite. If its whitish, and no adhesive is present, then its one of the non iron-on fabrics but its impossible to say which.

The possibilities for paint are just as varied. Could be dope, a single stage or base coat/clear coat automotive paint, Klass Kote, PolyTone, latex etc.

mike109

G'day

There are several ways you can cover a model in cloth. Silk, glue or dope on cloth like Sig Koverall, and iron on cloth like Solatex.

Silk was very popular in the early days of model aircraft. I have never done it but I have seen examples years ago and they looked great.

Sig Koverall is a relatively cheap cloth which you glue on to an airframe either using a heat sensitive adhesive (Sig Stixit or Solafilm Balasloc). You paint the adhesive on, let it dry then cut pieces of Koverall to fit and iron them on to the airframe with a lowish heat. You then shrink the Koverall with your iron (gently) and then use thinned dope to seal the cloth then paint. It is easy with this method to build a very pretty but very heavy model. You need to go gently on the paint.

Solatex is made in the UK but the same company that makes Solafilm. It is available in the US from, among others, Balsa USA. It is my favoutite. It is a cloth with a heat sensitive adhesive on its back covered by a protective plastic sheet. It is painted with fuel proof epoxy based paint. It does not need to be painted but it may be painted if you wish. I have a Sig Kadet Senior which is covered in Cub Yellow and which I gave a coat of clear polyurethane from a spray can. The model is now about 9 years old and still looks good.

Solatex is particularly easy to apply. It needs only low to moderate heat to attach and shrink from your iron. It is also great for stretching around compound curves. Just bore some heat in and pull the cloth to stretch it. Unlike films, it does not stick to your iron and is very smooth to iron. I am sure there are other similar cloth coverings but this is the only iron on one I have seen here in Australia.

I use Solatex on all models I wish to keep for a while. It is not cheap and here is not quite twice the price of Monocote but it lasts and lasts, looks good and is easy to apply.

Have fun.

Mike in Oz

acdii

Fabric that I got at a fabric store. Cost me all of $6 for 2 yards, enough to do at least 2 planes.  The dope is what costs, and you need plenty of it. Those little jars, I went through one already, one coat on the wing, two coats on the elevator and rudder, then whatever I needed to stick the cloth to the rudder and seal it, and the portion done here. 

goirish

Here is a link to buying the Nitrate and Butyrate
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...dbutyclear.php
Link for buying silk
http://www.dharmatrading.com/
I use the Silk Habotai Fabrics 5mm
cost is approx 3.00 yd.

gene6029

Acdii, Yeah, you gotta start buying in larger amounts. Those small bottles of dope the hobby shop sells will cost you a fortune to complete a model of any size. ........Gene

acdii

SO I have discovred. I ordered a quart from Sig along with a quart of Stixit. Going to try that out instead. I found a LHS that sells KlassKote too. Thing is I dont want to over buy something that will go to waste either.

MajorTomski

acdii, just as a point of reference may I suggest you have a look at the original "bible" of fabric covering?

This is chapter two of FAA Advisoriy Circular (AC 43.13b-1) Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft Inspection and Repair

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/list/AC%2043.13-1B/$FILE/Chapter%2002.pdf

Many of the processes, especially over lapping doped joints and dope application processes apply directly to our model aircraft. The major difference is the use of rib stiching. We don't need it in our models, the dope. or glue or the Stixit you ordered performs the same function on our little wings.

Again offered just as a point to learn a little more on the background on the very old process.

AMA 74894

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some 30 years ago when I first obtained my FAA Airframe and Powerplant license (A&P) the FAA's check airman was stunned at the fact that I was very well versed in fabric covering...
(something that even 30 years ago was not exactly the sort of thing everyone knew how to do)
personally I find fabric covering MUCH easier than iron on covering, although certainly more time consuming the finished result is MUCH nicer and stronger.
if you google 'RC silk and dope' you'll find tons of info including a couple of good you tube videos.

chadxp1

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Thanks for the replies so far. What is dope? (i have not googled yet but will this weekend when I get time). I know its slang for marijuana but I dont think that will hold my plane together.

chadxp1

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I really like the look and feel of the cloth covered airplanes. I am going to try this next winter. I guess I have all summer to read up on it.

goirish

Yea, but if you use it, you won't care if it holds together. The plane will be flying you because you will be HIGH[8D]

RCPAUL

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Fabric coverings are good - with one exception. They are heavy! Even using dope as a paint.

Even a 90-sized airplane will put on a pound or two more than a plastic covered model. So beware.

AMA 74894

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Aircraft dope (nitrate, butyrate)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aircraft_dope

Aircraft dope is a plasticised lacquer that is applied to fabric-covered aircraft. It tautens and stiffens fabric stretched over airframes and renders them airtight and weatherproof.[1]

Typical doping agents include nitrocellulose, cellulose acetate and cellulose acetate butyrate. Liquid dopes are highly flammable; nitrocellulose, for instance, is also known as the explosive propellant "guncotton". Dopes will often include colouring pigments to facilitate even application. The material is available in a wide range of colors.

Dope has been applied to various aircraft fabrics, including Madapolam, but also is used on more recently used man-made polyester fabric.[2] or fabric with similar fine weave and absorbent qualities.[3]

acdii

thanks, bookmarked it


Itested out Wb Poly on that elevator I posted above. Looks pretty darned good. Ihave a swatch of fabric on balsa that I used Poly on, then primer and then a nice coat of WB Poly that has some fuel resting on it now as a test. Should know tomorrow.

Lowvoltage

If you would like to know more about fabric covering follow the below link to Ceconite.com. Under Articles by Ron Alexander are many parts of the installation process.

http://www.ceconite.com/

rkcruit

I am looking for a few suggestions on the best way to trim Koverall to fit around angled edges (corners), such as the rudder shown in these pictures. When I try to wrap the cloth, it overlaps and looks terrible.
I tried cutting the cloth at a 45 degree angle but part of the surface is still bare.
I hope this makes sense. (If you could see how I wrap Christmas gifts, my difficulty with this processwouldbe ofno surprise to any of you) I am adhering the Koverall with Stix-it and then filling the weave with Nitrate.

Thanks for any help.

Robert

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

You may want to show someone that is more knowledgeable then you to tell you what type of covering you have on these planes before you go any farther in your endeavor. If they are just covered in any of the TEX types of coverings they will look and feel like most fabrics but are only an iron on covering like the plastic type. Know what you have before you start working on them.

chadxp1

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Grey Beard, will do. Thanks for the point.

Chad