Hi all! I'm new to the forum and to R/C vehicles. My 10 y/o son recently inherited an old Eaglet 50 from his great-grandpa and I'd like to get it up and running if possible. Idon't know the first thing about this type of thing. I've included a few photos, if anyone has any thoughts or advice, I'd be grateful!

Thanks!

The plane and engine seem to be in good shape for having sat for at least 10 years or so given the radio.

They will need a good cleanup, and you'll want a new receiver, battery and transmitter.

I suggest that you find a local club and see if they have a training program.

Check out the club and it's facilities, go to a club meeting.

You'll get properly oriented and are likely to pick up quite a lot.

+1 on checking with a local club for assistance, it's amazing how much help you can get and how much money you will save. I haven't been in your area for a few years but I seem to remember a club there. Believe us their help will be worth the visit. ENJOY !!! RED

Try this http://www.controlchat.com/field-fin...-location-map/. ENJOY !!! RED

Dittoos to what Opjose has said only I have reservations about your old Aristocraft Hitec Challanger That system is quite dated and maybe a pre 1991 unit that did not meet the narrowband standards. That would actually make this system illegal to use now.

The Eaglet can make a marvelous trainer.

Your engine is a K&B Sportster which were made in displacements of .20, .28, .45 and .65. The most likely you may have is the twentyeight or the fortyfive. Early 20 and 28's had no displacement markings at all but later 28, as well as the larger engines had size markings on the side of one of the engine mounting lugs. The Sportsters were remarkable little engines that were all plain bering so rust is not a problem and its likely that the engine can be freed up from the dryed castor oil and will run fine.

The most important thing you need here and now is an on site mentor and do not buy anything further until you do connect with help. Commonly the best way to do that is network with your local club.

John

I don't mean to dissuade you at all, but we'd do you a disservice if we didn't let you know what you are looking at to get this bird in the air. I think it's worth every penny to get into the hobby, especially if it's a dad and son activity. But this isn't something you up and decide one day to take up with no investment of time and money. First, as others have mentioned, your radio gear is really old. Electronics don't generally age well, so you'll probably need to replace it. Obviously, it's possible that it will range test fine and work fine (see below), but don't count on it. Even if it does, there is zero chance the batteries and airplane switch will be airworthy. There is a small chance the servos will work fine (smooth and consistent response with no jitters) but again considerable testing (see below) is in order before trusting them. The engine should be fine with a clean up (see below) but you'll need a new fuel tank. So at minumum, this is your budget to get the plane in the air:

Batteries- $60 (new radio gear is about $100 for a low end but trustworthy unit like a Spektrum Dx5e)
Tank and lines- $10
Servos (if you need them) $40
Fuel- $15 per gallon
Starter and battery, fuel pump, glow driver, glow plug wrench- about $100, maybe cheaper if you buy a used field box that someone is upgrading from
AMA dues and club dues- $10 for a minor alone for AMA or $70 IIRC for a family membership. Clubs fees are really variable, but expect around $60-$100. Many try to be cheap and skip this expense, but a club gets you a qualified instructor (which you'll need) and a suitable flying site.

So all of this can get up to $350 before you make your first flight. If that doesn't scare you, read on to get the testing done on your equipment.

Range testing- is checking for solid control at 100 feet with the transmitter antenna collapsed. You need to do it from all angles and with the engine running to make sure vibration or orientation doesn't affect it. If it fails, you have a radio problem which is likely to cause a sudden loss of control in flight.

Servo testing- charge batteries and work the transmitter sticks for about an hour while watching TV. You must get 100% relibility in the control response or the servos are bad.

Engine cleaning- Soak it in fuel for couple of days with the carb and backplate off to soften up the castor oil varnish. Take it out after the first day and turn it over and work the throttle. If there is any stickiness, soak it some more. If there is any roughness in the engine, you'll need new bearings.

Thanks to all for the responses. I've touched base with the local club here and am just waiting for a call back. Before that, I'd like to clarify that what I'm understanding is what y'all are actually saying:

receiver: I'm assuming this is the item in the second picture with all the wires connected?
transmitter: The unit you hold and control the plane with?
servo: The motors that turn the flaps, etc?

"Your engine is a K&B Sportster which were made in displacements of .20, .28, .45 and .65. The most likely you may have is the twentyeight or the fortyfive. Early 20 and 28's had no displacement markings at all but later 28, as well as the larger engines had size markings on the side of one of the engine mounting lugs. The Sportsters were remarkable little engines that were all plain bering so rust is not a problem and its likely that the engine can be freed up from the dryed castor oil and will run fine."
- regardless of what displacement the engine is, how do I know what fuel to use? The local hobby shop here mentioned the pump at any gas station, and nitro.

Jester, I appreciate the info! That is definitely something to take into consideration. Just so you know, the AMAwebsite is advertising free junior memberships. I signed my boy up, but am unsure if they (and the local club) require me to sign up as well.
As for engine cleaning, does anyone have any info regarding this engine? I wouldn't call myself an expert mechanic by any means, but Ido feel confident that I'd be able to disassemble and reassemble this IFIhave the proper documentation.

Again, thanks to everyone for the help,info, and advice! I'll be looking forward to see what y'all have to say!

Tony

The majority of clubs will require you to be a member of the AMA and require to also join the local club. Many local clubs have reduced rate family memberships or even free membership for the underage child just like the AMA.

If your local hobby shop told you to use gasoline in this engine then he is an idiot and cannot be trusted any further and that makes it even more important that you connect with an on site mentor and do not try to run your engine without experienced help. Most of the old flyers I know including myself do not have all our fingers still pointing in the same directions anymore these things are dangerous.

The direct answer to your question is you can use the same fuel for all those displacements. Use fuel that is 10 to 15% nitro content and has at a minimum of 20% oil. In addition a small percentage of that oil needs to be castor oil. No synthetic oil. Agine get help before attempting to start the engine.

As I was hinting at in my first post that the entire radio system should not be used, that includes everything, servos, transmitters, switch, batterys and receiver.

John

Lots of info being directed to you and you - IMO - need more. I used an Eaglet for some time to give initial lessons with. Still in my barn with a Fox 19. That K&B in your model has a 9-4 prop on it. Definitely NOT more than a .28 or so. That is enough power to fly.
I notice your transmitter being on AM. Without some research, I don't know if AM is narrow band or what. Buckner will know for sure.

Anythig to do with Aristo Craft Challenger I would not use in the current atmosphere. Narrow Band FM is still fine. My choice actually! "....mentioned the pump at any gas station, and nitro." That has to be some kind of funny point. Glow engines need methanol based fuel. Ususally sold as Glow Fuel.
You can pick up a neat little 4-6 channel radio, suggest 2.4, with a buddy box for less than a couple hundred bucks. Having a radio with a buddy box will be a big help in getting HELP!

BTW servos do the work after the transmitter signals go through the receiver and to the servos. Most of today's 2.4 radio units are sold separately. It ain't easy getting set - up. Good Luck.

Get some QUALIFIED help. It will be your best investment. Of course whatever you have will always be the wrong thing when some of these so-called "Instructors" get to you. Bare with it!

The Goldberg Eaglet 50 is an excellent model to learn RC flying and to maintain a connection to "Great Grandpa". I learned on a plane exactly like yours with the same engine. The engine appears to be a K&B Sportster .20 for which you can get some parts (if needed) at www.mecoa.com. All advice you are getting here is good, but the hobby shop you visited clearly isn't well versed in this hobby. Don't rely on their advice. I searched for a suitable hobby shop in your area and didn't find one. Doesn't mean there isn't one, but didn't see any with a web presence. The best thing you can do is visit the local club on any Saturday or Sunday and you will likely find all kinds of advice and a helping spirit. [link=http://www.angelorc.com/]Here[/link] is the web site of a club in your area. Please go visit them and enjoy watching others fly as your next step.
[link=http://www.angelorc.com/]San Angelo RC Inc.[/link]

Going by the style of servo plugs and the freq. on the radio is 72.670 it was made in the 70's and is wide band. Because of the age of the plane it would be a good idea to remove the covering and re glue all the joints as well. Balsa wood will get brittle over time.

If it wasn't such a drive from San Angelo to Fort Worth, I'd gladly offer to help you get the plane airworthy and take you up on the buddy box. Of course the offer is there, but I'm sure you can find someone a bit closer to help you. DadsToysBG brought up a good point that glue joints can degrade over time. I'd say that if the plane as it sits has a solid feel to it and doesn't crackle when you flex the tail and wing, it's probably worth restoring for flight. I have a plane built in the '70's with Ambroid glue that is still as strong as it ever was so it's possible the plane is sound. But if it's gotten rickety, you probably should let it stay retired and hang it up as a memento instead of flying it and crashing it.

you can use some older technology like this package from tower hobbies for about 130 dollars it is radio plus servos rx batteries for the rx and tx and switch for plane and charger http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXEFJ4**&P=0 if you decide you don't like the sport you are not too far into it for money. good basic radio mwhich can be used as a buddy box with newer radios. the basic you need to fly is glow fuel about 10% is good a glow starter yo can find cheap on ebay spare prop spare glow plug and a stick too flip the motor over with never use fingers. Assorted home tools like needle nose pliers and screwdrivers to tighten and adjust things paper towels and windex to clean it after flight. oops almost forgot a wrench to tighten prop

Thanks again to everyone for the advice and info! I'm still trying to get a hold of the local club here, but I'm sure when I do it'll be worth it. I'm also sure I'll be on here again with questions and maybe some pictures.

Ditto to all the sage advice given - but I would definitely add that the first thing you should invest in is a good simulator program . I suggest Realflight 6.5 It comes with a "transmitter" which you plug into your computer(Its not a real transmitter only a computer interface) . It has lots of plane and helicopter models that you can practice on . If you put some hours in on the simulator you have a real good chance of transitioning smoothly into your great-grandpa's plane (without turning it , all your hard work and $$ into splinters on your first flight). The REalflight can be had for $50 for the basic up to $180 for the deluxe version (which I recommend) Either way a good invenstment

Also available and very good is the Phoenix simulator. The Phoenix requires that you have your own transmitter, and you have to have some knowledge of your transmitter, patience and time to get everything set up properly.

I started with the REalflight Basic, but quickly outgrew it and got the realfight 6.5 and later I added the Phoenix , I still use the Realflight 6.5 Weekly (just used it tonight) It has great tutorials


My 2 Cents.....