I'm trying to figure out why my retracts won't go all the way up?? (H9 AT-6). I can't seem to adjust the linkage the way it needs to be. Any suggestions?

There could be a couple of reasons, first of all, a retract servo moves 180 degrees, make sure that it is moving the 180 from the retract linkages being directly apart to near touching, that will give you the maximum throw. If you can't get them to go all the way up then, then you will have to get a longer servo arm to have the throw increased, basically, the width of the servo arm has to be the exact same from center of hole, to center of hole, as the stroke of the activator on the retract.

In other words, you need to measure the amount of travel on your retract from the full down locked position, to the full up locked position. Then you need a servo arm that is that same distance from the center of your holes on the arms that your ball links will go through.

Also, be sure that your retracts (gear, wheels, strut etc) are NOT binding on anything. Be sure the servo is free to move that whole distance, a retract servo will drain a battery VERY fast. Make sure nothing binds that could cause the servo to stall.

Jeremy, I'll give it a look over.

Thanks,

I still can't get it. I tried for three hours last night.

when it's retracted is it locking? It could be that you are at the limit of the retract, try shimming the outside edge of your retract unit so that when the gear goes up, it does go into the wing, it will only take probably one washer under the outside of the retract mount to tilt it in a bit.

You could also try bending your gear legs in a little bit though this might interfere with the retract housing itself.

What brand of retracts are they anyway?

The retracts are the stock ones that come with the Hanger 9 AT-6, not sure what brand they are. I understand the actual wires are a bit weak, so I ordered some 3/16 wires from Robart.

Yes, when I hit the switch they retract all the way down to the locked position. Then I hit the switch up and they only come up about half way. When in the down locked position the ez connectors are in the 12 and 6 position on the circle servo horn. When up or half way up, they're in the 9 and 3 position or actually closer to the 10 and 4 position.

As per the instruction manual, I measured the distance between the full up locked and full down locked postion on the rods. Then took that measurement and found holes, again on the circle servo horn that matched up and installed the ez connectors there.

Here is a picture I did (please forgive the quality, I had to do it in paint LOL) of how I set up my mechanicals when I did it. The retract servo has to turn 180 degrees. as a result, the arms must start off just a little opposite of each other so they can come together when turned, most of the mechanicals I've had, were in the retracted position when the servo had the arms apart from each other (top of picture) and together when the were the gear was down.

Are you using an actual 180 degree retract servo? A standard servo probably won't work for you, and it won't have the power needed, if you're using a standard servo, it might just be stalling and that is why the gear won't come all the way up, when you retract them, do they come up all the way if you push on them?
From the sounds of it, you're only getting 90 or 100 degrees of movement on your servo, when you will need 180.

Jeremy, thanks a lot for the pic, very helpful. I'm using an HS-75BB retract servo that does travel 180 degrees. Yes, If I push on them they come all the way up. Can I take some pics of my setup this evening and shoot them over to you? Will you be available?

Oh, congrats on your engagement.

Do you have AOL IM so we can use chat?

Oh, going by your illustration, my starting point for the lowered locked position is off. You're starting at the 9 and 3 position and ending at again 9 and 3 after rotating 180 degrees. That's possibly my problem huh???

basically yes, you can't be exactly 9 and 3, or they will hit when they go 180.

Basically, if we look at the circle in degrees, and quarter it off, you have 0 at the top, 90 on the right, 180 at the bottom,270 at the left, and 360 / 0 again at the top. You will want to start with the linkages at about 80 and 260 so that when they rotate through they are at 80 and 260 again without hitting each other.
I guess on a clock that would be at about 13 minutes and 43 minutes.

Yes I have AIM, my user name is Vainatic

You can go exactly to 9 and 3, you just have to bend a small arc in each pushrod to go around the opposite connector. I don't have a picture handy, but it does work, and is what I've always seen as "normal".

yes, you can do that, what I don't care for with that method (and it's probably an unwarranted concern) is anytime you put any bed into a pushrod you are creating a weaker flex point. With mechanicals, I always want to have them as absolutely rigid as possible so that you know you have positive lock in the up position and especially the down position. Also, be sure to use 4-40 rods for your retract pushrods, you could use 2-56, but I prefer the strenght of the 4-40's, especially if you are using 3/16" wire and heavy wheels.

Mont, thanks for chiming in. I might have to refer to that if need be.

Jeremy, thanks as well, you've been a great help. I'll look for you this evening on AOL Im,,,, my user name is: cruzinzagi.

take care,