I need help with a gas plane
04-30-2017, 05:44 AM
#1
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I need help with a gas plane
Hi there yesterday with my dad we picked up two gas planes ones a project and needs some work but the second one the guy says it's ready to fly. I don't know anything about gas planes. I'm not sure what battery to use and if I need one. I can't find a esc just a receiver (I think) the only connected I found was a 9v battery connecter, my dad says it should power the electronics but I doubt it. Also what kind of fuel do I use (my dad said maybe enthenal) not sure if I spelt that right
04-30-2017, 06:04 AM
#2
A better description of the planes would be of great help, and also if you could post some photos
of the planes. Description= high wing or low wing, make of engine and size if you can find it on the
side of the engine, how many control surfaces does it use to fly, (engine, elevator, rudder, ailerons),
tricycle landing gear or tail dragger. I am assuming by gas and your Dad's fuel description it is a
"glow fuel" (ethanol, nitro, castor mix) as today a "Gas" plane does actually use a gasoline / oil mix
similar to that used in your weed eater. A 9v battery connector tells me these are very old, if this is
the battery power for the receiver. However much more information is needed to give you some
kind of idea of exactly what you have bought.
Bill D.
of the planes. Description= high wing or low wing, make of engine and size if you can find it on the
side of the engine, how many control surfaces does it use to fly, (engine, elevator, rudder, ailerons),
tricycle landing gear or tail dragger. I am assuming by gas and your Dad's fuel description it is a
"glow fuel" (ethanol, nitro, castor mix) as today a "Gas" plane does actually use a gasoline / oil mix
similar to that used in your weed eater. A 9v battery connector tells me these are very old, if this is
the battery power for the receiver. However much more information is needed to give you some
kind of idea of exactly what you have bought.
Bill D.
04-30-2017, 06:08 AM
#5
Email them to me @ [email protected], I will then try to post them here if you cannot figure out
how to post photos.
how to post photos.
04-30-2017, 12:46 PM
#6
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Sorry for not responding as quickly as you me and my dad where working on the plane the last owner or who ever mounted the engine side ways and the muffler didn't fit so we took it apart and people tried fixing it and there was like a million holes where you mount the engine mounts btw it's a 10cc engine and I think it's a glow engine because it has a glow plug ( I ALSO SENT YOU PICTURES OF THE PLANE AND INTERNALS )
04-30-2017, 05:28 PM
#7
Hey there and welcome to RCU. Just a few more thoughts, a 10cc engine is also referred to a .61ci (that ci stands for cubic inch this whole class of engines are sometimes just called sixtys. Look on the left side of the cylinder for any letters, symbols or names and on the right side just below the exhaust.
You mentioned an ESC but they are not used on airplanes with glow engines and in most installations there is only only one battery used and that functions through a switch to power the receiver and the receiver in turn sends power to the servos which activate the controls.
It would be helpful if you would indicate what country you are in so accurate info on how to get help could be given.
John
You mentioned an ESC but they are not used on airplanes with glow engines and in most installations there is only only one battery used and that functions through a switch to power the receiver and the receiver in turn sends power to the servos which activate the controls.
It would be helpful if you would indicate what country you are in so accurate info on how to get help could be given.
John
04-30-2017, 08:17 PM
#10
Hi yes, your Webra is what here in the US would be called a Sixty size. They are fine engines and I think I have several in my hanger.
So in Canada I highly suggest contacting a local club of your countrys national model organization the MAAC (Model Aeronautics Association of Canada). You and your dad are going to need on hand help and this is no project to attempt just with internet help especially when it comes to not only repair, refurbishment of your equipment but even more important when it come time to start learning to fly.
Lets wait a bit and see if Bill Diedrick is successful at getting your photos posted because just verbal descriptions is not gonna cut it. We don't even know yet if the airplane(s) you have are appropriate as starter airplanes.
So in Canada I highly suggest contacting a local club of your countrys national model organization the MAAC (Model Aeronautics Association of Canada). You and your dad are going to need on hand help and this is no project to attempt just with internet help especially when it comes to not only repair, refurbishment of your equipment but even more important when it come time to start learning to fly.
Lets wait a bit and see if Bill Diedrick is successful at getting your photos posted because just verbal descriptions is not gonna cut it. We don't even know yet if the airplane(s) you have are appropriate as starter airplanes.
05-01-2017, 05:51 AM
#11
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People say that the plane I have is a great starter kit to build and fly as a beginner. My dad said we're going to go to a hobby shop and get them to inspect the engine and make sure nothing is missing and it's not broken because when we bought the next day I opened it up and the engine was mounted the wrong way and I found a couple parts for the carb inside the plane I put the parts on the engine and looked at pictures of the engine on google and all looks good
05-01-2017, 06:17 AM
#12
OK I got the photos that you sent and also the 2 short videos. The aircraft that you have is a very
nice Goldberg Anniversary Edition of the J-3 Piper Cub. The engine in it is at the top of the power
size for the plane so you will probably be flying it at half throttle or less once it is airborne.
Here are a dew other questions:
(1) The 9v battery connector is it connected to the switch that is mounted on the left side of the airplane?
(2) The switch that is on the servo tray inside of the airplane is it connected to anything? (If not it serves
no purpose, I would remove it and save if for a spare.
(3) You have a Futaba Radio system that is on 72 MHz and it could be either AM or FM, what is the
model number of the receiver (commonly referred to as RX).
(4) Is there another power source for the RX, like a 4.8v or 6v rechargeable battery that came with the plane?
And did you get a charger for the transmitter & receiver?
Not to put a damper on your excitement to getting into flying model aircraft, but the J-3 Cub is not a beginners
airplane. I would advise you to find a suitable trainer type of airplane, if you try to fly this one without a competent
pilot at hand and on a buddy box set up you will more than likely destroy the plane on the first flight. Like John said
it is best to seek out a local club and get some help with the set up of the plane and most clubs also have "Club Trainer"
airplanes that they can tutor new students to flying on. Believe it or not most young people that come into this hobby
catch on very quickly and are soloing within a few lessons on a trainer. So please look up your closest club and get in
touch with one of their "Intro Pilot Trainers", you won't regret it, and it is always nice to talk to someone one on one,
face to face and ask questions about anything concerning this hobby. The internet is a wonderful thing but it doesn't
come close to the friendships that can be built being among others that are in this wonderful hobby.
Bill D.
nice Goldberg Anniversary Edition of the J-3 Piper Cub. The engine in it is at the top of the power
size for the plane so you will probably be flying it at half throttle or less once it is airborne.
Here are a dew other questions:
(1) The 9v battery connector is it connected to the switch that is mounted on the left side of the airplane?
(2) The switch that is on the servo tray inside of the airplane is it connected to anything? (If not it serves
no purpose, I would remove it and save if for a spare.
(3) You have a Futaba Radio system that is on 72 MHz and it could be either AM or FM, what is the
model number of the receiver (commonly referred to as RX).
(4) Is there another power source for the RX, like a 4.8v or 6v rechargeable battery that came with the plane?
And did you get a charger for the transmitter & receiver?
Not to put a damper on your excitement to getting into flying model aircraft, but the J-3 Cub is not a beginners
airplane. I would advise you to find a suitable trainer type of airplane, if you try to fly this one without a competent
pilot at hand and on a buddy box set up you will more than likely destroy the plane on the first flight. Like John said
it is best to seek out a local club and get some help with the set up of the plane and most clubs also have "Club Trainer"
airplanes that they can tutor new students to flying on. Believe it or not most young people that come into this hobby
catch on very quickly and are soloing within a few lessons on a trainer. So please look up your closest club and get in
touch with one of their "Intro Pilot Trainers", you won't regret it, and it is always nice to talk to someone one on one,
face to face and ask questions about anything concerning this hobby. The internet is a wonderful thing but it doesn't
come close to the friendships that can be built being among others that are in this wonderful hobby.
Bill D.
05-01-2017, 10:01 AM
#14
I suspect what you called a female connector on the back of your TX is the old Futaba buddy cord connector which may date your radio back pretty far I may have missed something but I did not see a picture of the face of your tx to be able to tell exactly what it is.
OK snipedoggy lets have a heart to heart talk now! I could not agree with what Bill has said more. First that airplane has an engine to large (flyable by a talented pilot but a complete disaster for some needing a real trainer). That Cub (any real cub model) are NOT trainers and never should be used for primary trainers. Your airplane could be made ready for flight by an experienced modeler in just a few evenings but what I fear most is you might just try to fly it without getting an experienced instructor to not only do the initial test(s) flight to get the airplane adjusted and trimmed up properly but also set you up with a trainer cord and start teaching you. If not and you go it alone the airplane is not going to live long.
Park the Cub and get involved with a local Mentor and get a real trainer also simulators are a bit help to new pilots.
John
OK snipedoggy lets have a heart to heart talk now! I could not agree with what Bill has said more. First that airplane has an engine to large (flyable by a talented pilot but a complete disaster for some needing a real trainer). That Cub (any real cub model) are NOT trainers and never should be used for primary trainers. Your airplane could be made ready for flight by an experienced modeler in just a few evenings but what I fear most is you might just try to fly it without getting an experienced instructor to not only do the initial test(s) flight to get the airplane adjusted and trimmed up properly but also set you up with a trainer cord and start teaching you. If not and you go it alone the airplane is not going to live long.
Park the Cub and get involved with a local Mentor and get a real trainer also simulators are a bit help to new pilots.
John
05-01-2017, 12:25 PM
#15
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Yea for sure guys I will for sure take some lessons on a trainer at my local rc airfield, remember I want to make sure everything is working like all the electronics and make sure the engine turns on... so I did a little diggin in side my plane and found a futaba 600 mah nickel cadmium battery and I found a charger with all the goodies the guy gave me. So now I don't think the 9 volt matters I'm pretty sure it's for a led on the front of the cub. Does anyone know how to store the battery properly because I know lipos you have to have a some charge in it?
05-01-2017, 06:53 PM
#16
On nickel cadmium batteries you should always store them fully charged, once you have used them for
a flying session or just checking out the controls of the airplane they should be charged. I also put them
on charge again the night before I go out the flying to make sure they are fully charged. The 600mah that
you have should give you about 45 to 60 minutes of actual flying time provided that the servos are not under
a heavy load, like from a stalled servo or a servo that is binding. When you are checking out the flight controls
if you hear a servo buzzing slightly, that is an indication that it may be under a slight load or binding in the control
surfaces. Binding will drain a battery very quickly. You may also want to invest in a higher "mah" battery and also
go with a nickel metal hydride "NiMH" type of battery. Check out your local hobby shop for different ones.
Bill D.
a flying session or just checking out the controls of the airplane they should be charged. I also put them
on charge again the night before I go out the flying to make sure they are fully charged. The 600mah that
you have should give you about 45 to 60 minutes of actual flying time provided that the servos are not under
a heavy load, like from a stalled servo or a servo that is binding. When you are checking out the flight controls
if you hear a servo buzzing slightly, that is an indication that it may be under a slight load or binding in the control
surfaces. Binding will drain a battery very quickly. You may also want to invest in a higher "mah" battery and also
go with a nickel metal hydride "NiMH" type of battery. Check out your local hobby shop for different ones.
Bill D.
05-02-2017, 02:05 PM
#19
snipedoggy it not normally the servo itself that easily can bind up and move slowly or even stop the servo from moving it full throw. It is the linkage all the from the servo arm to clear back to the control surfaces or even the hinges themselves could cause the binding or pushrods rubbing somewhere or possibly someone bent the pushrods to much. pushrods should be kept as straight as possible or if they are the nyrod plastic type the bends still needs to be kept at a minimum,.
with your radio system fired up operate the servo and listen you can tell watching and listening to the servos (at least the analog type servos which you have ) If one keeps making running noises or seems to struggle remove from the top of the servo output arm and use a small blade to widge the output arm up off the splined servo output shaft now with the pushrod completely separated from the servo just actuate the pushrod and you can feel any binding in the linkage and work from there to find where the binding occurs. Also now operate the servo with no arm on it see if it moves freely.
Now a word about that Cub and the linkages please set up the pushrods as such: The clevis, Z bend or ninety degree bend with a plastic keeper that attaches the front end of the push rod to the servo,s output should be attached to the hole on that output arm that is closest to the center of that output shaft. Now lets go back to rear end of those pushrods where the attach usually with a clevis to horn that protrudes from the control surface itself close to the hinge line. That horn also has a line of holes that you could attach the clevis, well back here use the last hold that the furthest out from the control surface. This is opposite of what we did up front at the servo. This will give the best chance of survival on the first flight.
Now all this would be easier if you posted exactly what radio system you are using Just post the brand and model numbers/name on the front of your transmitter.
John
with your radio system fired up operate the servo and listen you can tell watching and listening to the servos (at least the analog type servos which you have ) If one keeps making running noises or seems to struggle remove from the top of the servo output arm and use a small blade to widge the output arm up off the splined servo output shaft now with the pushrod completely separated from the servo just actuate the pushrod and you can feel any binding in the linkage and work from there to find where the binding occurs. Also now operate the servo with no arm on it see if it moves freely.
Now a word about that Cub and the linkages please set up the pushrods as such: The clevis, Z bend or ninety degree bend with a plastic keeper that attaches the front end of the push rod to the servo,s output should be attached to the hole on that output arm that is closest to the center of that output shaft. Now lets go back to rear end of those pushrods where the attach usually with a clevis to horn that protrudes from the control surface itself close to the hinge line. That horn also has a line of holes that you could attach the clevis, well back here use the last hold that the furthest out from the control surface. This is opposite of what we did up front at the servo. This will give the best chance of survival on the first flight.
Now all this would be easier if you posted exactly what radio system you are using Just post the brand and model numbers/name on the front of your transmitter.
John
05-02-2017, 03:39 PM
#21
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With the questions you are asking, you really really really need to get with an experienced modeler to advise you as you work on this plane. I'm going to give you the next in many tips you'll need on your way to flying RC - if you don't know how old that battery is, throw it away. Throw the switch away too. If the plane has been in storage a long time, all of the radio gear may be unreliable now too.
Moving on from the plane, I need to ask a question. Do you actually want to get started in RC modeling and flying? It's a great hobby, but it's not just a matter of getting a plane in the air. There is a significant learning curve to RC flying that will take some time to get through. And yes, a basic budget is required. If the only point of all this is to see the plane fly one time just because you have it, give it to an experienced RC pilot on the condition that he take you out for a buddy box flight or two once it's refurbished. But if you want to be an RC pilot, we can definitely help you get there.
Moving on from the plane, I need to ask a question. Do you actually want to get started in RC modeling and flying? It's a great hobby, but it's not just a matter of getting a plane in the air. There is a significant learning curve to RC flying that will take some time to get through. And yes, a basic budget is required. If the only point of all this is to see the plane fly one time just because you have it, give it to an experienced RC pilot on the condition that he take you out for a buddy box flight or two once it's refurbished. But if you want to be an RC pilot, we can definitely help you get there.
05-05-2017, 07:00 AM
#22
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Hi!
First the Webra 10cc engine is way too big/powerful for the SIG CUB! A more suitable engine size is a 6,5cc (.40 ) two stroke swinging 12x4 prop (in case of the CUB). That engine size is also more suitable for the high winged trainer that you must fly before you even try the CUB.
Second: The SIG CUB is not a suitable "new bee plane"! It might be a high winged plane but it flying characteristics is not in line what characterizes a trainer.
Third: To be successful in R/C flying it is vital that you join a club and get help with flying otherwise you will crash or never get the plane/engine working!
Fourth: Get rid of the old batteries! -You do not know how old they are and in what condition they are.
First the Webra 10cc engine is way too big/powerful for the SIG CUB! A more suitable engine size is a 6,5cc (.40 ) two stroke swinging 12x4 prop (in case of the CUB). That engine size is also more suitable for the high winged trainer that you must fly before you even try the CUB.
Second: The SIG CUB is not a suitable "new bee plane"! It might be a high winged plane but it flying characteristics is not in line what characterizes a trainer.
Third: To be successful in R/C flying it is vital that you join a club and get help with flying otherwise you will crash or never get the plane/engine working!
Fourth: Get rid of the old batteries! -You do not know how old they are and in what condition they are.
