Pushrod and remote fueling question...
#1
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From: E. Northport, NY
I posted this on the ARF board, but figured it can go here too...
I read on a previous post about the GP 182 ARF 40 that some people used Dave Brown composite pushrods. A look on Towers site revealed Dave Brown fiberglass pushrods http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB901&P=0 , not sure if this was the same thing. I'm also wondering how you connect these to the servo, as I'd imagine you cannot bend the fiberglass into an L.
Also, is there a way of hooking up a fuel port so as not to need to remove the cowling to refuel? I thought I read something about this, perhaps someone can provide a link to it so I can see it?
Thanks in advance!
I read on a previous post about the GP 182 ARF 40 that some people used Dave Brown composite pushrods. A look on Towers site revealed Dave Brown fiberglass pushrods http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXB901&P=0 , not sure if this was the same thing. I'm also wondering how you connect these to the servo, as I'd imagine you cannot bend the fiberglass into an L.
Also, is there a way of hooking up a fuel port so as not to need to remove the cowling to refuel? I thought I read something about this, perhaps someone can provide a link to it so I can see it?
Thanks in advance!
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From: Laurel, MD,
Dave Brown also makes "push rod ends" that are basically "adapters" between some normal music wire and the fiberglass pushrod. So you attach to the servo and control surface in any of the normal ways.
Dubro and a few others make fueling hookup gadets, though they get mixed reveiws due to air leaks that some people have had. A more trouble-free approach is a "fuel dot", using a 3rd line in the tank that is used for fueling and unfueling. The fuel dot caps the line to prevent leaks, and has a nice looking flush mount on the outside of the airplane. The low-tech approach is to just run the fuel tubing outside the cowl, splice in a bit of brass tubing or a fuel filter, then run it back in the cowl to the engine. To fuel, just disconnect the exposted bits, it's the same as if you were taking it off the carb.
Dubro and a few others make fueling hookup gadets, though they get mixed reveiws due to air leaks that some people have had. A more trouble-free approach is a "fuel dot", using a 3rd line in the tank that is used for fueling and unfueling. The fuel dot caps the line to prevent leaks, and has a nice looking flush mount on the outside of the airplane. The low-tech approach is to just run the fuel tubing outside the cowl, splice in a bit of brass tubing or a fuel filter, then run it back in the cowl to the engine. To fuel, just disconnect the exposted bits, it's the same as if you were taking it off the carb.
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From: Carrollton, KY
I seen in the Tower magazine a three way valve for fueling. You just turn it one way to fuel, the other to the engine. Does this help?
Hope this doesn't constitue advertising, but here is the valve I'm talking about I seen on tower hobbies.
Hope this doesn't constitue advertising, but here is the valve I'm talking about I seen on tower hobbies.
NOTES FROM OUR TECH DEPARTMENT
This Device is for Airplane Modelers that have their Engines
and Fuel Lines in "hard to get at" Places such as Cowlings.
FEATURES: One-Piece Valve Assembly installed into Airplane with
Convenient Fueling Probe for Refueling.
INCLUDES: One Pre-Assembled Fueling Valve (Glow Fuel)
One Fueling Probe (DUBP2339)
One Knurled Nut w/Serrated Washer
SPECS: Overall length (front to back): 13/16" (20mm)
Mounting nut diameter (what is seen on outside of cowl): 1/4"
Hole size (drilled through cowl): 3/8"
Length inside cowling: 1/2"
COMMENTS: Will require drilling 3/8" hole for acceptance of valve assembly.
NOTE: This will ONLY work with Glow Fuel.
For GAS Fueler, use DUBQ0655.
This Device is for Airplane Modelers that have their Engines
and Fuel Lines in "hard to get at" Places such as Cowlings.
FEATURES: One-Piece Valve Assembly installed into Airplane with
Convenient Fueling Probe for Refueling.
INCLUDES: One Pre-Assembled Fueling Valve (Glow Fuel)
One Fueling Probe (DUBP2339)
One Knurled Nut w/Serrated Washer
SPECS: Overall length (front to back): 13/16" (20mm)
Mounting nut diameter (what is seen on outside of cowl): 1/4"
Hole size (drilled through cowl): 3/8"
Length inside cowling: 1/2"
COMMENTS: Will require drilling 3/8" hole for acceptance of valve assembly.
NOTE: This will ONLY work with Glow Fuel.
For GAS Fueler, use DUBQ0655.
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From: Anoka,
MN
Ya gotta love MinnFlyer's drawings!
The Dave Brown pushrods come with nylon fittings that hold the wire part of the pushrod assembly into the ends of the fiberglass tubes. There are 5 of the nylon fittings, 4 for single wire and the fifth is for a "Y" like you'd use for a split elevator. The instructions with them are pretty good as well. It's pretty much the same idea as Minn's drawing in post #3.
Phil in MN[8D]
The Dave Brown pushrods come with nylon fittings that hold the wire part of the pushrod assembly into the ends of the fiberglass tubes. There are 5 of the nylon fittings, 4 for single wire and the fifth is for a "Y" like you'd use for a split elevator. The instructions with them are pretty good as well. It's pretty much the same idea as Minn's drawing in post #3.
Phil in MN[8D]
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From: Locust Grove,
GA
You make your drawings look like you do this for a living!
Man you are good.
Man you are good.
ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
You can also drill a hole about 1" from the end of the tube, bend a piece of rod to a 90* angle, and place it through the hole. Then, plug the hole with a wooden plug and some CA.
You can also drill a hole about 1" from the end of the tube, bend a piece of rod to a 90* angle, and place it through the hole. Then, plug the hole with a wooden plug and some CA.
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From: Tacoma, WA
I've got a DuBro fueller. Absolutely hate it. EVery now-and-then the little pin gets stuck in there and I have to spray it with WD 40. Get a fuel dot. It's the most hassel-free option.



