Flying Question: Knife Edge
11-10-2003 | 07:21 PM
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From: Livermore,
CA
Flying Question: Knife Edge
Hello,
I don't know if this is the right forum for a question on flying, but I thought I would try it here. Can anyone provide a recommendation on how to get into a knife edge with a Sig 4*60? Starting with lots of altitude, is it recommended to start a little nose high, then roll it 90 degrees and apply rudder? Will I need to use much elevator to keep the plane going straight? Any tips are appreciated.
Travis
I don't know if this is the right forum for a question on flying, but I thought I would try it here. Can anyone provide a recommendation on how to get into a knife edge with a Sig 4*60? Starting with lots of altitude, is it recommended to start a little nose high, then roll it 90 degrees and apply rudder? Will I need to use much elevator to keep the plane going straight? Any tips are appreciated.
Travis
11-10-2003 | 08:22 PM
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RE: Flying Question: Knife Edge
You've got the right idea. Lots of speed, and lots of altitude.
Once you roll to 90 and apply the rudder, there's no telling what you will need next. I've had some planes that held it beautifully without any other inputs, then again, some planes will require to hold a little aileron, some will require some Up Elevator, and some will require some Down Elevator. Every plane is different (Some 4*s will even be different than others). So keep it high, see what it does, and be prepared to roll out level again. Each time, add whatever input you discovered it needed from the last try.
And remember...
If you get in trouble, ROLL your wings back to level!!!
And if you are headed earthward, CHOP the throttle! (You can pull out at low throttle much faster than at high throttle)
Once you roll to 90 and apply the rudder, there's no telling what you will need next. I've had some planes that held it beautifully without any other inputs, then again, some planes will require to hold a little aileron, some will require some Up Elevator, and some will require some Down Elevator. Every plane is different (Some 4*s will even be different than others). So keep it high, see what it does, and be prepared to roll out level again. Each time, add whatever input you discovered it needed from the last try.
And remember...
If you get in trouble, ROLL your wings back to level!!!
And if you are headed earthward, CHOP the throttle! (You can pull out at low throttle much faster than at high throttle)
11-10-2003 | 08:37 PM
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From: Rockwall,
TX
RE: Flying Question: Knife Edge
THanks for the info Minn. I've been dying to try a knife edge with my BUSA thunderbug. I just havn't built up the nerve yet!!
PS "I HATE TO CRASH", Love to build!!
PS "I HATE TO CRASH", Love to build!!
11-10-2003 | 09:34 PM
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From: Carrollton, KY
RE: Flying Question: Knife Edge
Is it possible to knife edge with a Sig LT-40? I have tried, but I can't even remotely come close,lol. Is it me? Or, can it be done?
Wings,
Wings,
11-10-2003 | 11:46 PM
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RE: Flying Question: Knife Edge
Your 4-Star 60 should knife edge very well, mine does, and I've had 2 of them. Mine is bashed into a "sprt of" Kawasaki Tony, WW II fighter. I did add a little extra to the top of the fin and rudder to get the scale shape, but not a significant amount. Here's a few rocommendations.
Check your rudder servo. Go to full control and push on the rudder. You may need a more powerful one to hold the rudder over.
You might try knife edging where your rudder servo is pulling instead of pushing. Pushrod bend can reduce the rudder throw. I moved mine to the rear.
Speed helps unless you have a good bit of side area. I am using a Magnum .91XLS with a 14-6. I had an OS .91FX in my first one.
Raise the nose about 20 degrees, release the elevator and roll into 90 degrees of bank.
Put in full rudder to start with. If your plane climbs, use less.
The rudder you use is opposite to the way you rolled in. Right roll-left rudder. Left roll-right rudder.
My 4-Star 60 does not roll, but has a very slight amount of pitch. It will hold knife edge all day.
Planes like trainers that have a high wing and loads of dihedral tend to roll out with rudder and are actually much harder to knife edge than a properly designed acro plane.
I covered flying knife edge in the R/C Report, May 2001 issue. You can contack them for a re-print at www.rcreport.ws. They advertise here on RCU.
Check your rudder servo. Go to full control and push on the rudder. You may need a more powerful one to hold the rudder over.
You might try knife edging where your rudder servo is pulling instead of pushing. Pushrod bend can reduce the rudder throw. I moved mine to the rear.
Speed helps unless you have a good bit of side area. I am using a Magnum .91XLS with a 14-6. I had an OS .91FX in my first one.
Raise the nose about 20 degrees, release the elevator and roll into 90 degrees of bank.
Put in full rudder to start with. If your plane climbs, use less.
The rudder you use is opposite to the way you rolled in. Right roll-left rudder. Left roll-right rudder.
My 4-Star 60 does not roll, but has a very slight amount of pitch. It will hold knife edge all day.
Planes like trainers that have a high wing and loads of dihedral tend to roll out with rudder and are actually much harder to knife edge than a properly designed acro plane.
I covered flying knife edge in the R/C Report, May 2001 issue. You can contack them for a re-print at www.rcreport.ws. They advertise here on RCU.
