Just wondering what you guys use to hold your plane back while making engine adjustments. I've seen quite a few variations on the subject but I'm not sure what I want to use. It's not really that big of a deal to hold it myself but it's probably safer to have help.

I made a hold down using PVC pipe and a large (pole barn) nail. I can't take a picture of it (camera not working) but will try to draw it up. It is just pused into the ground and holds the plane by the horizontal stab, when all is adjusted set the engine to idle, pull the plane back and the holder drops out of the way. I'm not sure how large a plane it might hold back but have used it with a .91 four stroke and a Moki 1.8 two stroke. I'll get back.

9" tent spike (big nail)
nylon tie down strap (truck tiedown)

will hold whatever you got and is cheap (4 tiedowns 20 bucks[already had them], 4 spikes 2 bucks.)

loop it around the tail and that thing aint moving (unless you rip the tail off)

We have some poles pounded into the ground at our startup area. Everybody brings their own rope with 2 loops on one end. The rope ties around the pole and the loops are just looped over each horizontal stabilizer. The plane stays put unless you have a bad glue joint in which case the plane shouldn't be taking off anyway! Even our 1/4 scale guys use this method.

I use my Aircraft stand! It doubles not only as a Maintenance/Setup bench, but as Aircraft Engine runnup stand as well.

My F3A in it.

Scorpionjack, that's a good looking rig but I was looking for something a little smaller than that. Not to be picky.
I want to see the idea Bingo Flyer has in mind with the PVC pipe.

I stick a large screwdriver into the ground as a stake. Then I use a chunk of rope that has a loop tied onto either end of it and wrap it around the tail/aft fuse. The loops then are placed over the screwdriver to complete the hold down.

Tent stakes work very well also, and are actually better in some ways because they have the little horn at the top to act as a catch for the loops. Though screwdrivers are easier to stick into the ground as they require no hammers.

-Auger

Thanks vacine; I just like something that has more than one purpose. But two 3Ft Spikes drove 2 ft down approx 3" apart with some Pipe insulator over it works just fine for Simple.

dogleash.....what i do is use a 8 ft. long dogleash with the end with the clip fed through the hand loop making a loop that i slip around the tail assembly which i then anchor to a pole pounded into the ground...works great

I use my son, as long as I don't stiff him on his allowance it is pretty safe................seriously I have seen gus use the screwdriver W/ the rope with pretty good success
Brian

Tent spikes or dog leashes are cheapist and best.

I like the dogleash idea. Small, compact, easy to carry. Unless you're on concrete, it can be used anywhere.

vacinekm

I hope this works, I have tried several times and the sketch uses more size than 650 X650 pixels. If you have any questions e-mail me. I cover the uprights with foam pipe insulation, Im sure this will hold most anything at most clubs.

Be Sure to use SCHEDULE 40 PCV it is much heavier that the lighter stuff.

Thanks Bingo Flyer!! It printed good enough to read and use. I'm going to make one of those. All of the ideas here are great but I'm going with Bingo's.
COOL!! :-)

I like the idea that Fastsky
had about the pit area stations having built in hold downs but would be curious if there is concern for a trip hazard. I'm all for it myself.

I use at the present a device made by one of the hobby manufacture "can't remember if it was GP or someone else" but it is sold in the local hobby stores. Its a black painted 1/4" steel rod that has been bent it has two 1/4" X 10" bent steel that protrudes from the bottom and is used to stick in the ground. It then uses pipe insulation that fits down on both sides of the runners that your tail feathers but up against. This device is a swing away, all you do is back your plane up and then give it a tap and it falls.

Blackie;

It sounds very much like what I have built using PVC pipe and large nail it too falls down flat after backing the plane. I should go back and edit my post so that vacinekm knows he should use schedule 40 PVC.

I made my own holdback stakes using $2 worth of stuff from home depot. You'll need one 48" wooden dowel, get the one thinner than a broomstick, but thicker than a ball-point pen (should cost 94 cents); a 6' length of foam pipe insulation (should cost 79 cents); and some duct tape that you'll have laying around.

Cut the dowel in half, cut it at a 45 degree or more angle so that the ends are pointed. Tape foam to the "flat" ends, allow at least 7-9 inches of dowel not covered with foam.

When you get to the field, push your stakes into the ground about 3-5 inches apart (depending on model). Make sure they go in at least 6 inches or so. Put the tail of your plane between the stakes, make sure that the tail is in contact with foam and not wood, and you're all set.

I use a leash for my bigger birds, literally it's a training leash for big dogs ...it's about 16' long, and doubled over for this application gives me about a comfortable 6' to 7' of leeway from what I tie too. Our field has a run-up area, but the rope/leash seems shorter then I'm comfy with, and the leash I use is 10 times stronger then what the field has available at this time.
I wrap leash around a pole near run-up area(never in the pits please), and then loop around tail of plane. It seems the only way it will come off is to remove from tail of plane. I know the pole is definately not coming out of ground, and that just leaves tail of plane. I seriously doubt tail of plane is coming off either. I do use the fusalage also to distribute the load. If one of my buddies is available, I will get someone to at least be on stand by, and I won't run them alone at the field, for safety sake. I've learned this habit from here, and have heard of to many mishaps that are just that. You just never know.

I made a holddown much like Bingo Flyer's except it's made of 1/2 inch copper water pipe.

(2) Uprights about 15 inches long, (2) 90 degree elbow joints, (2) short sections of about 3", (1) "T" joint, two end caps (on top), (1) pipe length of about 12" for the bottom of the "Y" and some pipe insulation.

Took about 15 minutes with the propane torch to solder it together. The bottom is hammered flat to avoid it filling with soil and gives it an "edge" to cut into the ground.

I just put it in place with a slight backwards slant and step on it. Works great.

I use a garden hose holder from Home Depot......it's the one that hangs on the wall to coil the hose on......2.95 and works great ! especially for tail draggers