somefakeingdude111

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DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

R1ck,
Welcome to RCU and RC flight. It's a great hobby filled with people who are very willing to help the newcomer.

I'll see if I can answer your questions.
Well, not really. Piper Cubs are usually tough to get off the ground due to "ground loops". You need an experienced touch on the rudder (and throttle) to get the plane in the air. Once in the air, Cubs are generally pretty docile though. Depends on the glue(s) you're using. If using thin CA, then the joints need to be neat a precise. If using medium CA or wood glue, or aliphatic resin, then you can have SMALL gaps. (If you have a complete "gap" between two parts, you should replace the piece.) No problem. CA doesn't work for this unless both parts are sanded first. That's a LOT of epoxy. Do you have a gap that wide that's filled with epoxy? If so, cut it apart and get rid of the epoxy. A thin coat on the surface to be joined is all that's needed. (Not sure I understand what you mean.)

Now, do NOT try to fly this plane without experienced help. Locate a local flying group and have someone assist you with engine operations and flying. These aircraft are not toys and have killed people when flown improperly.

Good luck,
Dennis-

somefakeingdude111

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phread59

Ca is the generic term for Cyanoacrelate glues. They are sometimes called "Crazy Glue". there are a lot of different companies that make these glues, ZAP, Golberg's Jet, Satelite City's Hot Stuff, and Bob Smith are some of the most notable. CA comes generally in 3 different viscositys. Thin is like water and flows well into joints. There can be no gaps with this glue. It dries almost instantly, less than 3 seconds. It is used for general construction. You put 2 parts together the flow in the glue.

Medium is like a corn syrup consistancy. It penetrates wood better and will bride a very small gap Less than say 1/64th of an inch. It will take longer to dry, say about 6 to 8 seconds. It too will be used for general construction. But unlike thin you put the glue on 1 part then join them. It can be used to strengthen thin joints "filleting".

Thick is like a heavy sauce consistancy. It is used to fill slightly larger gaps. It also can be used in general construction. It dries usually around 12 seconds or so. It is used like medium. It does allow for some time to reposition parts.

There is gels out there. But I have never used them. They are for when you need to fiddle some parts together and need the time.

I saw that you are using Humbrol. This is the old stinky stuff as my memory servs. I would suggest instead of that try some aliphatic resin glues. These are the yellow carpenter's glue. Titebond and Titebond 2 are very common ones that work well. As I remember the Humbrol joints are slightly brittle. I could be wrong here. I know that modelers many years ago used it. The resin glues are very strong and very cheap. That is just a suggestion. I hope this helped some.

Mark Shuman

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Thin CA is probably THE most common glue used in building Balsa RC airplanes today. It "wicks" into the wood on each side of the joint and bonds it together in a couple of seconds. It makes building much quicker.

You do NOT need to use much; 2 or 3 drops on a 1" joint will follow the seam and glue it together. (Many people use 2 or 3 times as much as they actually need.) You can buy thin applicators that fit on the CA bottle which allows you to put the glue precisely where you want it.

Epoxy is the same way. A thin coat on one part, then join it with the other part and clamp it together. Leave 5 minute epoxy clamped for at least a couple of hours to really set up well. 30 minute epoxy should be left clamped for a minimum of aout 6 hours. BUT both of these should be allowed to cure for 24 hours before any pressure is put on the joint.
Dennis-

somefakeingdude111

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Yub, yub, cmdr!

Did you mix the epoxy just kidding. You might have gotten the ratios wrong like when I tried to Epoxy the badly drilled holes in the motor mount.[:@] Never dired. Gotta get some new ones.

somefakeingdude111

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cde0214

Stick with it, it gets better. I do perfer CA to wood glues just because how fast it cures. You can also get a CA accelerator that will make it cure almost instantaneous. Take your time make sure the parts are set right before you glue! Three days into my first kit I had my doubts, but I have just finished my second plane and it went together a lot better. I'm kind of an outcast at our club because there is only a handfull of people that build kits, but its worth it when I bring out a new plane that looks different from everyone else's ARFs. Just my $.02

somefakeingdude111

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hooleydog

My Feedback: (24)

When building R/C Plane kits I always use wood glue (the yellow stuff) It gives me time to align the parts, and any that oozz out can be wiped off (no mess). I even use wood glue to put the two wing halves together too. when its set, it's hard as a rock. Also, I've never had any parts fail cos of using wood glue....

spokman

My Feedback: (2)

They key to epoxy is keeping the resin and hardener at 50/50 proportions then mixing the heck out of it. I've never seen epoxy that was carefully eyeballed and thouroughly mixed not set up in 30-60 minutes. I like to use any plastic box or round molded case that other things such as a spinner come in. Popsicle sticks are perfect for mixing and applying. When in doubt ad a little more hardener. I'm building my third plane right now(used epoxy for other things as well) and am finding that I like to have thin CA, medium CA, wood glue and epoxy available for different jobs. Epoxy is messy so I prefer tightbond II in a lot of cases. If I think CA will hold it I use that instead as it dries a lot faster. Epoxy ends up having some flex to it and creates a superstrong bond. It is well suited for joining wing halves.

rcu guest-delete

r1ck0r,
Nice choice !!! Piper Cubs are beautifull SCALE models, fly beautifully and can do aerobatics too. A little bit tricky on take off but not difficult after some practice.
All Glue types are good, just some glue types are better for specific jobs. *The yellow wood glue is the best overall for general construction of wood parts, but remember is not water-proof after it dries so use it on the parts that will be covered later with monokotes-plastic or paints, as long as does not get wet, it will last forever. * Epoxies are water and fuel proof, that makes them great for engine rooms and exposed parts. I learned a trick on epoxy mixing, when delivering epoxy to the mixing plate ( use a flat surface ), deliver the epoxy on a line-like manner and then deliver the other half on a line in equal lenght parallel to it ( close ), that way you get even amounts of both. Cut the epoxy cans tips in the same size hole for easy. * CA`s glues are just incredible and fast, they save you time once you get good at building frames. Be carefull with them as they can glue you skin and be extremely carefull with CA`s in your eyes. They are strong and light, but won`t allow allignment time for corrections. With CA`s what I do is allign the part, hold it tight, and drop the CA to the joint and hold. I have a SIG Kavalier built 20+ years ago, with wood glue and epoxy only, with hundreds and hundreds of flights on it and it`s as strong as when new. Good luck!!!!!!, any questions just drop me a note, <<[email protected]>>

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

If you are new to this hobby, the Flair kit will most likely end up a bit much for you. The Flair kit products, though very true to scale, are very hard to build correctly. Even more so for a newcomer.

Take your time in building. Make certain that the parts fit is as near to perfect as possible. You may want to put this kit aside and build another, simpler kit and gain building experience. DO NOT GIVE UP. Worst case scenario is that you build a plane that is not quite as pretty as you would like. Just build it straight and it will fly.

When using CA type adhesives, keep your bare fingers as far away from the adhesive as possible. CA glues will bond skin together in 1 or 2 seconds, and does not come apart easily. Should you bond your fingers together, soak the affected parts in acetone to assist in loosening the glue. This may take some time, so don't be in a hurry. Do not try to pull your fingers apart, you will only tear the skin.

When using epoxy, alcohol (the cheapest variety) is a very good solvent for clean up while the epoxy is still wet. Dried epoxy, if a very thin layer, can be cleaned up with acetone. This will take considerable rubbing, though.

Take your time, use care, and have fun.
Silversurfer

beginner_1

go for it all the way. who needs a good good begginer plane as long as you have an instructer it should be ok. but just because i said that dont blame me if you crash. that is what i would do.

somefakeingdude111

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siclick33

Sorry to hear that you're having a few problems. Hope that you can sort it.

In response to the previous comments, the Flair Cub is designed as a trainer. It is aimed at the beginner (not like Flair's scale kits). It flys OK. A steerable tailwheel is a huge bonus. Without it, you can take off with gentle application of power and a lot of work on the rudder. On landing it is almost impossible to stop spinning round without the steerable tailwheel. In the air it is quite easy to fly. You didn't say if you had ailerons (the moving surfaces on the wings) or not. Mine does, but the rudder is pretty good so I would guess either version is OK.

With regards to the glue. The Flair cub's fuselage is made of lite ply. Which is harder than balsa but not as strong or heavy as ply. I would always glue this with wood glue (PVA) or Epoxy resin. (The epoxy used for high strength areas such as undercarriage mount).

What engine are you putting in it? I thought that it would need a powerful engine (as you said it is quite large and mine is quite heavy) IT DOESN'T. Mine flies great on a 40 four stroke. A low performance 40 two stroke will be at the top end of what you should be looking for.

Hope this helps and good luck.

phread59

Hello again, Most instructors at a club field if you are using your plane and fuel will not charge you anything. But if you use thier plane and fuel they may charge you a small fee. I am glad to see you continue to build. Just pay attention to the plans and instructions and take your time. It will be fine and you will be proud of your creation.

Mark Shuman