I am working on a GP Super Sportster 60 and getting the slots ready for the CA hinges...

The directions state to drill a 3/32" hole in the center so the glue can better spread to the hinge. I went ahead and drilled a couple of the slots, but I wasn't all that satisfied with the result. I had to use the knife to clean out the slots a fair bit right in the center afterward.

What's your all opinions on drilling the hole in the center?

Thanks!

Ever since I lost a plane because the glue had only wicked in about 1/16 " I drill holes all the time (and pin at least 2 hinges per surface). BTW there's nothing stopping you drilling the hole first then cutting the slot.

Steve

I have seen CA hinges that have a "Wick channel" (ie a slot cut into the center of the hinges to allow the CA to seep into the slot better) and I thought it was such a good idea, that any time I had hinges without them, I started drilling a hole in the hing slot. Imagine mt surprise when GP started instructing you to do just that! Answer is: Yes, drill the hole.

Remember, even though the hole may have sawdust in it, the thin CA will still wick through better than if there were just a slot!

I too drill and I also make sure that I apply at least 4-5 drops of thin CA to both sides of the hinge and my hinges generally tear the wood out when they get pulled on.

Definately drill!!

I've found the absolute best way to install CA hinges is to use hypodermic needles and thin CA. No need to drill a hole, just stick the needle in a mm or 2 and inject. I recently used this method for my Uproar and I'm pretty sure the hinges would hold even if the wing broke apart...

Just get the needle out before the glue sets!

Drill!!! Drill!!! Drill!!!. Even if you have the saw dust in there you're going to get good bondage from the CA and the wood. Drill yer holes, test fit the hinges, and dribble on the thinest CA you can find. Hell the saw dust in there kinda acts as a filler if you ask me. Leavin' less of a chance for the hinge to soak up all the glue and not get a good joint over the entire hinge and contacting areas.

Do you also recommend installing a round toothpick or not?

Building a Sig SE and will be covering and using ca hinges very soon.

Bill

If you are flying a 40-60 size plane, and you use THIN CA, I think the pins are not necessary, but if it makes you feel better, by all means use them.

I think the CA hinges got a bad rap when they first came out because too many guys used medium CA on them (or maybe some OLD thin CA). I know one guy that this happened to, unfortunately he totaled his new plane on the first flight (totally pilot error, nothing to do with the hinges). I was there, when he started ripping it apart to scavenge parts off it, and when we removed the control surfaces they came out WAY too easily, and each one had a little scrap of balsa stuck to it (I am attaching a drawing to give you an idea of what it looked like). This was the result of using OLD, thin CA that had thickened a little. It didn't have the ability to "wick" itself into the slot.

Now maybe others have had bad luck with them, but in their defense, let me tell you this: a few years ago, I was scavenging parts off of a recently re-kitted plane, and I (remembering the previous example) decided to "Test" the hinges. Pulling as hard as I could (I am 6'2" 245lbs... no lightweight) I WAS able to separate the elevator from the stab, but not without destroying the elevator in the process.

MY PERSONAL conclusion... I'm never going to worry about CA hinges again.

PS... DRILL THE WICK HOLES!

Use an exacto knife to cut your slots and use pink ZAP and dont drill nothing........ Period........

When selecting the drillbit for the MINN technique, the 1/16 seems too small, the 5/64 seems right; anything larger and it could remove too much material. This is on a 40 sized stick.

Anyone care to comment?

...throw the CA hinges away and buy some Klett pinned hinges...they won't stiffen up on you like the CAs will...

I have recently thrown away every GP CA hinge in my hardware box. I have been having to replace them in all my planes due to them breaking across the hinge line, not pulling out. I have not had to replace a single CA hinge from any other manufacturer. No more GPs for me.[:'(]

...and for those of you who insist on CA hinges, you can make them from a white FEDEX envelope and they are UNBREAKABLE!

What is the diff between GP and any other CA hinge on the market?

also, anyone have input on the earlier question, the drillbit?

Some people have had bad experiences with GP hinges, but personally, I have had no problems with them.

As for the hole, I usually use a 1/8" bit.

This thread was originally posted, two years ago. Since then, I have written this "How To" on installing CA Hinges. Give it a look:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...TOKEN=52212706

Already looked at it, excellent info, im utilizing your technique to a T.

Ive had excellent results with Radio South