Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
03-05-2004, 04:59 PM
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Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
I'm painting a set of Dubro synthetic landing gear. I have it sprayed with Rustoleum Metalic Blue. I was thinking that spraying a coat of Krylon Acrylic Clear over it would fuel proof it. Will the Acrylic crack when the gear is flexed? Is there something better to cover the enamel with? Thanks!
03-05-2004, 07:13 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
Rustoleum is generally good for fuel resistance.... With some brands metalics are often a problem though (I haven't tried Rustoleum metalics...) I'd get some Rustoleum clear enamel and clear coat it.
Use the same brand and type paint... its going to be compatible. Use a different brand and type and you invite problems.
Use the same brand and type paint... its going to be compatible. Use a different brand and type and you invite problems.
03-05-2004, 08:55 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
I would not use acrylic. As my memory serves acrylic is on the brittle side. It would crack badly. There is plasticizers available but you would need to shoot from a spray gun to use them.
Mark Shuman
Mark Shuman
03-05-2004, 10:07 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
So rustoleum laquer it is! Thanks all! Paint is confusing and it's going to get worse for you all as I'm going to do my next plane in Koverall and dope! Appreciate the help!
03-05-2004, 10:21 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
If the Rustoleum Metalic is ENAMEL... you want Rustoleum ENAMEL clear.
**************
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1595291
See post 12 in that thread.
**************
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1595291
See post 12 in that thread.
03-06-2004, 10:44 AM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
Too many contradicting inputs have you confused Spokman.
Do not use lacquer based paints unless you will be spraying a urethane clear to fuelproof and protect the color coats, lacquer based paints are not fuelproof nor would be a lacquer clear.
Enamels on the other hand, by the most part are fuelproof, although some colors are not (In the Rustoleum line for example, the metallic silver, clear coats and a few others are not). Krylon paints are more inferior than Rustoleum for model use, do not use unless protecting the color coats with a good urethane clear.
Acrylic enamels (automotive paint) are in my opinion the best paints for model use, as they use a hardener that is mixed into the paint, which aids in the way the paint flows and imparts incredible durability and resistance to just about anything, and they do not crack on open frame finishes that we so much use in our models (e.g. J-3 Cub, etc.).
There also are synthetic enamels, which Rustoleum and most paints sold in spraying cans are, this type of paint is a cheaper version of acrylic enamels, it also uses a hardener before spraying (the automotive variety), but does not have the longevity and hardness of acrylic enamels, much cheaper though.
Urethane paints and clears, are probably the top of the line, they also use hardeners, but the finish with these paints will outlast any model, very expensive paints. If you were to paint your Mercedes, this would be the paint to use.
Epoxy paints (two parts) are also top of the line, very expensive, K&B was used for years in model used and what a paint it was!
And lately a lot of modelers are using latex (house paint) with very good results, but if used on a model that uses glow fuel, needs to be clear coated.
Lacquer based paints were very good because they dried in no time (like dope), but was not fuel proof and had to have an agent before spraying that would help its flexing, otherwise it would crack and lift badly, also required a clear coat, as it was not fuel proof at all. (As I understand they have been banned in the automotive use, they Ozone thing)
Acrylic and synthetic enamel clears (automotive) are fuelproof, most use a catalyst/hardener. A few don't.
Urethane clears, same, very expensive.
Polyurethane clear (floor finishes) can also be used, but they tend to yellow with time.
Wood varnish can also be used, but they have a strong amber color and on a white background will show yellow, they work very well on military finishes though.
Best thing to do is if using clears from spray cans, test first, it is also best to stay with the same brand of paint from beginning to end, unless you are sure that they will not react with each other (test).
In the Rustoleum line the basic colors are fuel proof, have never used the metallics though, except for metallic silver and clear are not.
Epoxy paints in the spray can (this is what they are called) from ACE hardware are very good for model use.
If spraying the model with an air gun, automotive enamels are the way to go in my opinion, the synthetic enamels provide a very economical way of doing it, if you want better, use acrylic enamels and if you want to really spend the money, urethanes will take care of that. Always add the catalyst/hardener, don't try to save money by not using it.
Latex, house paint would be the cheapest way of getting a model painted, but has to be clear coated, an automotive clear would work great. (I have never used latex on models).
Most of my airplanes are painted with acrylic enamels, the Partenavia is painted with Synthetic enamels and has worked very well. And the Chipmunk has a coat of urethane clear to seal all that detail, the color coats are acrylic enamel (Dupont), very expensive.
Hope this clears things up for you!
Do not use lacquer based paints unless you will be spraying a urethane clear to fuelproof and protect the color coats, lacquer based paints are not fuelproof nor would be a lacquer clear.
Enamels on the other hand, by the most part are fuelproof, although some colors are not (In the Rustoleum line for example, the metallic silver, clear coats and a few others are not). Krylon paints are more inferior than Rustoleum for model use, do not use unless protecting the color coats with a good urethane clear.
Acrylic enamels (automotive paint) are in my opinion the best paints for model use, as they use a hardener that is mixed into the paint, which aids in the way the paint flows and imparts incredible durability and resistance to just about anything, and they do not crack on open frame finishes that we so much use in our models (e.g. J-3 Cub, etc.).
There also are synthetic enamels, which Rustoleum and most paints sold in spraying cans are, this type of paint is a cheaper version of acrylic enamels, it also uses a hardener before spraying (the automotive variety), but does not have the longevity and hardness of acrylic enamels, much cheaper though.
Urethane paints and clears, are probably the top of the line, they also use hardeners, but the finish with these paints will outlast any model, very expensive paints. If you were to paint your Mercedes, this would be the paint to use.
Epoxy paints (two parts) are also top of the line, very expensive, K&B was used for years in model used and what a paint it was!
And lately a lot of modelers are using latex (house paint) with very good results, but if used on a model that uses glow fuel, needs to be clear coated.
Lacquer based paints were very good because they dried in no time (like dope), but was not fuel proof and had to have an agent before spraying that would help its flexing, otherwise it would crack and lift badly, also required a clear coat, as it was not fuel proof at all. (As I understand they have been banned in the automotive use, they Ozone thing)
Acrylic and synthetic enamel clears (automotive) are fuelproof, most use a catalyst/hardener. A few don't.
Urethane clears, same, very expensive.
Polyurethane clear (floor finishes) can also be used, but they tend to yellow with time.
Wood varnish can also be used, but they have a strong amber color and on a white background will show yellow, they work very well on military finishes though.
Best thing to do is if using clears from spray cans, test first, it is also best to stay with the same brand of paint from beginning to end, unless you are sure that they will not react with each other (test).
In the Rustoleum line the basic colors are fuel proof, have never used the metallics though, except for metallic silver and clear are not.
Epoxy paints in the spray can (this is what they are called) from ACE hardware are very good for model use.
If spraying the model with an air gun, automotive enamels are the way to go in my opinion, the synthetic enamels provide a very economical way of doing it, if you want better, use acrylic enamels and if you want to really spend the money, urethanes will take care of that. Always add the catalyst/hardener, don't try to save money by not using it.
Latex, house paint would be the cheapest way of getting a model painted, but has to be clear coated, an automotive clear would work great. (I have never used latex on models).
Most of my airplanes are painted with acrylic enamels, the Partenavia is painted with Synthetic enamels and has worked very well. And the Chipmunk has a coat of urethane clear to seal all that detail, the color coats are acrylic enamel (Dupont), very expensive.
Hope this clears things up for you!
03-06-2004, 06:36 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
Thank you Walter! That was very informative! So let me see if I have this straight.
For my landing gear with Rustoleum Metalic Blue I might want to try a Urethane clear coat or nothing at all on it? If I do try a clear coat I should try a test area first.
Does this sound right? Do I have any other options? Thanks!
For my landing gear with Rustoleum Metalic Blue I might want to try a Urethane clear coat or nothing at all on it? If I do try a clear coat I should try a test area first.
Does this sound right? Do I have any other options? Thanks!
03-06-2004, 06:47 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
Right! A landing gear is not a big problem, should the paint not stand up to glow fuel, you can always remove it by using a paint solvent (lacquer thinner) and trying again and then spray some clear to protect it, you'll learn from this experience.
03-06-2004, 10:29 PM
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RE: Spraying Clear Acrylic on Enamel?
This is really good information. It's getting me in paint mode for my next plane. I won't be doing monokote again unless it's a very light plane like a glider. My monokote turned out good but I really like the look of a painted plane. Gets me ticked when the edges keep turning out. Thanks all for the info on painting! Don't sniff to many paint fumes!
